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I like the M-1 myself

or get a spark plug thread chaser and go easy with it till you know its straight then go in 1/2 turn then back out then in an additional 1/2 turn until you are down to the seat. If you screwed it up bad you can always put a heli coil in it

There are 2 properties when checking a fuel pump. 1 is pressure and it sounds like you are ok there. the next is volume a pump can have proper pressure and insuffient volume. I don't know what the volume is for your car but I would venture a guess that if it pumps a cup of fuel in 15 to 20...

they always come in felpro intake set

The biggest problem I see with a 2 x 4 carb setup is most people take a near stock motor and then throw a pair of 750 's on it and lug it around town and wonder why it washed the rings out or they have so much gas in their oil and spin a bearing and blame it on the 2 x 4 setup My self I am...

ya use the thick gasket ....the thin gasket is prob for a different application using that carb

what I did was to drill an 1/8 th hole in each primary throttle plate to let a little more air in with out drawing more fuel - re adjust mixture and idle speed and it should lean right down

sounds a little lean to me I'd go up

I have been wondering the same thing. Don't know anyone with NOS to ask, but it would be nice once in a while. I haven't figured out how you even tune it in with out blowing something up

did you blow out the lines when you replaced tank? Pull fuel line and run some into a container to see how it flows -could be trash in the fuel inlet restricting the flow thru the needle and seat

I have a little tubing bender that looks like a modified set of pliers and straightened out the coil of tubing getting as straight as I could. Put it under where I wanted it to run and looked for any place where I had to run it through a hole or small space. Threaded it thru those places first...

I have used it in the past without any problem as long as it is thickwall type but the best (and cheapest) is thin wall mild steel tubing

ya I gotta grab a pic of mine , but basically I mounted a 8 gal cell in my spare tire well note: I found one in my photo gallery check it out there

I know exactly what you are talking about. I have been on a similar search for the last 2 years and the closest thing I could find was a old 4x2 manifold for the old poly small block. Also been looking for an old Hillborn style injection system for a smallblock. The ones I do find are expensive...

I notice the rule book just says mettalic line

I have my fuel cell installed and now want to run 1/2" fuel line all the way to front but don't know where to get steel line that long . Can copper be used ?

I use Toululene too and it works well. Only problem is that around here Toululene is more per gal than Sunoco 110 octane gas. Toululene at Walmart or Menards is $10+ a gal and Sunoco 110 octane is $7.00 a gal. So I switched to the Sunoco plus it is still leaded gas

I prefer toululene my self. Xylene has an octane rating of only 109 -110 vs 114 to toululene

Thanks guys Holley didnt list it and I kind of thot it had to be factory oem or possibly farm/industrial

A guy gave me a holley carb he had. He knew nothing about it and thot it was a double pumper (NOT) I went to the holley site and looked up the numbers and it don't exist...LOL here are all the numbers on the air horn D9TE-9510-AEA LIST 8343 0459 It's a square bore with vac secondaries and...

Years ago I had an Edelbrock "Rat Roaster" intake on my hemi. The thing I liked was the fact it met the "within 1 inch of stock height manifold" requirements of the class I was racing at the time and made awesome power from 3000 rpm up. but to answer your questions: Not happy with any...

For me a single plane 2x4 intake similar to the old "Rat Roaster " manifold of years past is exactly what I am looking for. Been contemplating making my own sheet metal manifold for my 360. Why what ya got or got in mind?

thanks I will check both places

Does anyone know of someone who can cut some precise small block intake manifold flanges so I can build a sheet metal intake? I have a couple new ideas on intake design that I want to make prototypes out of sheet metal to field test with.

yes the return line helps to keep from over presuring your needle and seat.The pump is designed to supply more fuel than you can use so the extra has to go some place and without the return that someplace will be down your intake manifold...LOL

sounds to me like they screwed up the sending unit with it reading full all the time they must have welded a full ground on the rheostat (bridged the contacts)

I take it you are talking about a pump like they would use on a injected caravan or neon. They run about 35# pressure or more with a pressure regulator that has a return back to the tank. Not like some regulators that deadd head at the carb. My question is why? Pressure does not equate to...

yes I have done lots of aluminum polishing before and what you are wanting to do is labor intensive and somewhat expensive for supplies. To begin with these manifolds are rough cast and you have to sand it all smooth before you even begin to start polishing. The you need lots of crevice tools to...

or glassbead it and it will look like new again

I would bet that its in the throtle plates, loosen them and snap the throttle shut a few times and then shine a light thru them and look to see if the are centered as well as possible Also on alot of throttle plates there is a top and bottom... they bevel the thin edge so they will close...