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My thoughts are, the motor is mostly apart any way so why not clean everything up, install some new rings and bearings if needed then you will have a better chance that it will survive. Otherwise I like your comment about finding a decent running 318 and using it instead.

It all depends if you want to chance doing it twice? Personally I would tear it down and check everything.

Besides the ID on the block a 340 has the distributor in the back and a 440 has the distributor in the front. A 273, 318 and a 360 also have the distributor in the back. 383, 400 and the other big blocks have the distributor in the front.

Yes, it goes in to the water jacket. I use RTV Blue on it. Others have said antiseize.

Put some thread sealant on the front and rear bolts on both manifolds as they all go in to the water jacket.

Have you checked your passenger side floor board to see if the heater core is leaking? Go to one of the parts stores and get a radiator pressure tester. Most have them on the tool loan program.

I totally agree. Too much chance of problems down the road even of it isn't leaking now. That area has to be thinner than the metal around it so it will be the weak spot.

I generally leave my oil plug out and my filter off for an hour or so to let every drop drain out that can.

Picked up what? They are two different parts.

Great information and it is now a sticky.

Let me guess.... 1970 Dodge Dart, 1972 Plymouth Scamp or maybe a 1974 Plymouth Duster.

Ballast resistor on the fire wall.

Bingo

I posted about the convertor bolts and then changed it when I read the Z bar was diconnected.

Z-bar standard tranny... Try supporting the front of the bell housing.

I would like to see an uninterrupted video of a 35 minute swappy swappy. Even in my young days I couldn't pull out a running engine then get another engine in and running in 35 minutes.

What type of gauge are you using? If it is OEM get an aftermarket and see what the readings are.

I fixed the thread title so it will make more sense to those that live out of your area. Keep in mind that people read this site world wide so it is pretty important not to use abbreviations that leaves most of the world scratching their head. There is a ton of knowledge on this site and many...

Congratulations on getting it going. Some words from a dear friend comes to mind. "Use the KISS program." KISS means Keep It Simple Stupid. I used to try to over think everything and couldn't see the forest because there was too many trees in the way. After having him drive KISS in my head...

Xs another one. Battery, battery, battery related is the place to start.

Based off the details you have posted, by using a pressure tester you would have likely already located the leak by now.

I would go to your local parts store to get their radiator pressure tester that should be available in their tool loan program. I would leave the oil plug out and pressure up the cooling system. It might be a good idea to remove the spark plugs also. Hopefully that will lead you to the leak...

No problem as long as you install the correct parts that would be used on the motor. There is a different crank used on the 1967 back 273. The end of the crank where the torque convert hum goes in is smaller. Be aware that the 360 is differently balanced than a 318/340.

It is possible since the back side of the timing cover is the timing chain area. If the sealant didn't seal totally then antifreeze could have gotten in.

Pull the pump off the timing cover housing, install the bolt with sealer and reinstall the water pump.

You didn't say which engine you are working on. Is the hole shown on this small block timing cover.

It needs a bolt with sealant installed in the hole. There are threads in the block that the bolt screws in to.

The 2128869 273 crank will have a small pilot hole at the rear and will not accept converters after 68. The size of the hole is aproxamently 1.55" and the larger is 1.78". I don't know what you might get in to on a manual transmission. Is the flywheel/flexplate also different?

You might check out the threads on our search tab that I found using "odessa cylinder head" as the keywords. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/search.php?searchid=8063950

See the post #58 that Ian made above showing the picture of the two missing core plugs with green paint on them. In a previous post he already said no green paint inside the block.