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I think a conscientiously thought out lighting plan that has been intelligently tested and aimed by a capable person is sufficient and reasonable when compared to majority of the horrifically implemented lights we see all over this country currently. Maybe someone buys a good set of lights...

Lots of threats and insinuations about possibly getting in trouble and or dying Dan. Sounds a lot like the continual barrage that everyone gets by the gestapo EPA in this country. Spewing carcinogens out the tail pipe, running non-standard exhaust, no catalytic converters and modified high...

More power to you Vader. Just because many LED and HID conversions are crap does not mean they all are. How about having a passenger take a picture of your driving perspective at night on a dark back road to show how well they work. I suggest two pics on low beam and a couple on high beam...

I do agree that you should have factory grounds in place and be damd sure they are clean connection points. At minimum Batt to engine, batt to car frame. Clean battery posts, battery terminals and ground connection points and re-connect. Gotta be sure they are not loose or corroded. Both the...

I bet we would need more information: When did this issue start? Is this a new engine? Is the carb in proper working order? Do you have a good fuel line, filter and pump all clean and working well? Did you make a change recently and now the issue has come to light? First...

Pretty great. You made that mount or? what about the pulleys? A kit? Is that a factory fan on that alternator? You must run lots of rpms to keep that water pmp and alt doing their job with all that underdrive stuff. Any more pics from different angles? What model alt is it? What are they...

Bad battery I agree. Take it in and have it load tested after a 12 + hour trickle charge or smart charge for an entire cycle. If you find a good auto place, they will charge your batt for you overnight and test it the next day. If the batt tests out fine then the starter or wiring is heating up...

Cool thread. Thanks for sharing. Where did that plug come from? I mean, where did you buy that plug and what is it called?

i'd agree to uncrimp them, cut the wire back .25" and fabricate a new crimp on newly exposed wire. Then find some grease suitable for electrical connections these days. I believe dielectric grease will do but likely any will do as well. Dielectric does not conduct but .. ...

Since you have the Blaster II, I would run it at 12 volts. I am quite sure it will do a great job of lighting the fire. Many people run the HEI with a blaster II. Not sure if they run the external .5 ohm ballast but I would not.

From what I can decipher, it will work with an HEI and full 12+ volts (probably lots better than stock mopar ecu and coil with ballast) but it is not optimal compared to a proper E core designed for that era HEI module. The HEI module will start clipping current at a lower number (sooner)...

Well, the fan may be IP 66 rated or similar. Hopefully. Back when I designed thermoelectric cooling for outdoor electronics we had a line on IP66 rated high flow cooling fans in small forms like that.

Solid. Isnt slant six dan living on your half of the continent? He may call in an air strike on your *** for a statement like that.. :)

Dang. Lower amp draw than stock? Thats brilliant. Thank you for sharing your project. How do you like the quality of light pattern?. From what source did you order your light housing and where did you get the light kit? Thanks!

This sounds like a cool thread. Keep us posted! Maybe some b4 and after pics? Are you having the FBO guys setup you up a distributor with proper curve? What parts are you getting from FBO? A whole kit? Which one? Thanks.

Sorry, should have read more. It looks like you have a new wire harness which will allow for 70s voltage regulator and alternator??

I really like the mopar alternators with the exception of the low rpm voltage drop, or amperage. What ever. I have run 2 regular 80s gm alternators on 2 separate mopars which eliminated the voltage drop at idle. I also added a fat wire from the alt + to the Batt +. Simple mod back when I was a...

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This thread is great. Sorry to see your tank is smashed.

Good point. Would be sweet, no more points adjustments or replacements for ever and still run easily on parts store parts. Just be sure to run correct ohms coil (and ballast if needed) based on your ECU type.

You can use a points to trigger an HEI. You haven't to worry about dwell, only standard timing curve settings. There are articles on the web about wiring. Although you would need to hide the hei part. Personally I like the Pertronix III idea and its 30 month warranty but the availability of...

Your results look great! You can get coarse grade blasting soda from amazon. I have used this type on some electrical connections inside an out. It is much faster than kitchen soda. I have also used it on other parts. It does cut faster so not as much time or pressure is needed on sensitive...

MSD Ballster vs Accel Super Coil = no noticeable difference in any possible street or race application. (excluding manufacturing quality irregularity or failure due to outsourcing quality) Your Mopar box requires you to run a ballast resistor. What you want to consider on is two things: 1...

Well, the best battery I have had between max priced gold flake autozone, a new big yellow optima, factory motorcraft and walmart brand is: NAPA DP. Dual Purpose: deep cycle / starting battery. Most or all gel / acid / glass mat like optima and oddesy require a different charge scheme than...

Mild engine w vacuum advance hooked to manifold or "timmed port" will help part throttle torque when adjusted in harmony w your mechanical timing curve.

That is very nice.

Bill, Which HEI dist are you referring to? Thx.

pjc, How is your FBO rebuilt dist treating you?? Does it run nice or worse after the re-fabulation? I am seriously considering sending him a BB factory low mile unit for phasing and curving for our 4200# car. Thx.

Just a note: MSD blaster II is not correct ohm for HEI. Run a .5 ohm coil (with no ballast).

Sounds good Rusty.I can't find the recommended parts kit online thus far.