I'll stick with my Halogen Nighthawk 6024NH's.. no way am I dropping 600 on a pair of headlights for one of these cars to cruise.
Replacing sealed beams with conversions
- Thread starter Dart_Vader
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Rice Nuker
Let the Coal Roll!
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notenoughcash
Well-Known Member
YAAACCKK!! Geez...That's, uhmm, stupid expensive, but wait for it....
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/JW-SPEAKER-JWS-M8700-EV-Evolution-Headlight/dp/B00GMRM3KA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B7CFGERPQ6FVABFGWV3"]Amazon.com: JW SPEAKER JWS-M8700-EV - JW Speaker Model 8700 Evolution Black- 7" Round LED Headlight: Automotive[/ame]
Thank you, but I have doing this since the mid 90's. What I was after is the thinking below.
Both times that I've had the OE HL thermal breaker pop the sealed beam lights were back before switching to the other beams registered as an option. On my own relay systems I use what you're referring to as Type 1. It is a rare situation where it's both convenient and safe to work on the HL circuit when they have a problem. I'd rather be able to limp to someplace safe and I figure that "blinking" HL's are better than none at all.
I've read on an off road forum of guys pulling their LED headlights due to poor performance. I think that this has been limited to the Trucklite offering, but I can't be sure of it.
Even if the H4s are run using stock wattage, 55/60 IIRC, the fuse issue is the relay system. Drawing power off the alternator (or battery) means no protection for the the relatively high current wires. I don't recall Dan ever writing not to use a circuit breaker. I was going to use a pair I bought from Waytek wire, but then decided I liked the marine type fuse holders better so went that route.
Stock wiring. To add content to the 'junk' comments. The stock wiring is the absolute minimum for carrying the current. IIRC its 16 ga. from the dimmer switch to the headlight. That, and then any connection that is less than ideal and there is enough resistance to either melt something or trip the breaker inside the headlight switch. I've had both happen with just the standard headlights.
Hella H4s have a bigger difference in the hights of the low beam and high beam than the Cibie's. The Hella's with DOT marks are not quite as pronounced IMO. I've used all three at standard wattage and they are all pretty darn good, especially compared to plain ole sealed beams. They also pretty much eliminate the need for foglights unless your in a place that's really really soupy. Funny part is that Scott Harvey tried tell us this back in the 60s in an article he wrote about rallying.
Stock wiring. To add content to the 'junk' comments. The stock wiring is the absolute minimum for carrying the current. IIRC its 16 ga. from the dimmer switch to the headlight. That, and then any connection that is less than ideal and there is enough resistance to either melt something or trip the breaker inside the headlight switch. I've had both happen with just the standard headlights.
Hella H4s have a bigger difference in the hights of the low beam and high beam than the Cibie's. The Hella's with DOT marks are not quite as pronounced IMO. I've used all three at standard wattage and they are all pretty darn good, especially compared to plain ole sealed beams. They also pretty much eliminate the need for foglights unless your in a place that's really really soupy. Funny part is that Scott Harvey tried tell us this back in the 60s in an article he wrote about rallying.
Dart_Vader
...Join the Dart side...
Yeesh...those look really weird and sketchy. I would much rather have the look of a stock sealed beam but with a nice, bright and white light. The JW's just look like a heat score.
I do not trust circuit breakers. having used them in car audio applications, I have personally witnessed them melting and/or catching on fire under consistent and reasonable draw. I will be fusing the wiring for safety. And of course keep a few around as spares.
To follow up on my post.
You can get a atc fuse style type 1 circuit breaker if you really want a breaker instead of a fuse. Plugs into a fuse holder just like your normal fuses.
You can get a atc fuse style type 1 circuit breaker if you really want a breaker instead of a fuse. Plugs into a fuse holder just like your normal fuses.
In car audio, I'm assuming that the breakers were for amps, you have repetitive high in-rush currents. So I'm thinking two things, the breakers in question were not quality parts, and with those high in-rush currents they were misapplied. Fusible links or slow-blow fuses are the better choice in that type of application. They'll take those in-rush currents w/o popping and still protect the circuit.
Clearly having the beams on separate circuit protection, of what ever type is preferred, is a good call as that allows switching to the other beam if there is a problem. Something that, IME, the OE's don't do.
The Hella vs. Cibie' vs. Bosch vs. various mfg debate is a whole separate thread. I will say that most of what I own is Hella and that isn't by choice.
Clearly having the beams on separate circuit protection, of what ever type is preferred, is a good call as that allows switching to the other beam if there is a problem. Something that, IME, the OE's don't do.
The Hella vs. Cibie' vs. Bosch vs. various mfg debate is a whole separate thread. I will say that most of what I own is Hella and that isn't by choice.
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