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230 at the pipe is almost perfect the rest are Lean...

1977 I think...

Back in the late 70's and early 80's Cam Dynamics 16002 and a 16202 was my go to for customers cars.It was 275@50 585 lift on a 106 good for 7500 rpm, that was the last stop before a Roller cam

I use to put an old cam dynamics 222@50 on a 110 with .467 lift in 4 wheel drives back in the 70's.It ran very strong,that 77 360 would really respond very well to something along those lines...imo

I kept the block for 30 years because there is soooo much cyl wall thickness." I've never seen one this thick"with .160 min. it will go .080 and have lots left on the table.That is why I kept it. The block is a 69.I'm just going to push it back under the bench... Thanks for the input...

I have a really solid 340 block,I've had it for over 30 years.It has the std machine work,deck,line hone "with studs",bore with tq plate.The reason I've kept it is all the thrusts are over 160.It was checked with a BHJ sonic tester.I think it's .040 but the bores are all covered with grease and...

Pretty common...small blocks have been doing that since they started to get modded...back in the day it was a pain with 13.5 comp...Milodon head studs and 3M glue...If a customer came in with it smoking out the breather you did not even have to take off the covers,you just told them Head gasket...

Thanks for posting...that was fun to read :thumbsup:

I have fished the lifters out without removing the intake,most times there is casting flash so you have to move the lifter over to the next cyl.It can be very time Consuming, I too would remove the intake because 50% of the time it takes longer to fish than just bite the bullet and take it...

Way Too Short...IMHO

The cam card is wrong..not that it really matters but the adv duration should read 306.

Oh man I put a lot of those Enforcer cams in...I mean a LOT there was a little one 007 that made a crap load of power to 5000,the 010 was NO POOCH..the problem was everyone was wearing out the hyd lifters."lifters were collapsing after 20-30 trips to 6500" or the push rods went through the...

Poink...when you take a dead blow hammer and strike the snout of the crank,you do this sometimes to try and gain end play by seating the thrusts on a main brg.. When you strike the snout of the crank it makes a Poink sound...:wink:

5/64 rings really drag... IMHO 30 lbs with no valve train is excessive..Poink the crank a couple of times to set the center main and see if it improves.. When I did Ifitsgotwheels 273, it turned with the valve train adj less than 30 lbs.It did have almost an extra 2 tenths piston to wall.. So...

The only camshaft that I've ever seen in 1968 and 1969 340's BOTH in 4 speeds and auto engines was that 2899206.. I still have 3 or 4 upstairs in my garage with the wire tags still on them marking them either a 4 spd or auto..they all have a red paint mark on them back by the teeth for the oil...

I would look at the converter..probably going soft

Man back in the day if your engine couldn't go 7500 rpm plus you were a sissy..lol My little Red Dart in 78 had the same cam that I put in IfItsGotWheels car..the only differance was mine had a 250 shot on it. I remember pulling gears on the bottle and the tach never dropped it stayed on 7800...

How long do you go between oil changes ??....years?

It's NOT a 3400 rpm stall Tq converter..someone sold you a bill of goods..(BS converter)

You have to sleeve these days because the cores are just not there for a good price... I have guys trying to sell me cores for 300-500 out of late 70's trucks and they think they have gold. I tell them $50.00 These days if you have a bad hole ..poke a sleeve in it and down the road it goes..;)

Bloody sonic tester...I have a BHJ and it ALWAYS brings the pain... 30 years ago when cores were abundant it was no big deal, but now the crap we wouldn't have even thought about back then are gold now.. I think that a 340 block at .060 without a spot under .125 is doing pretty good..360's...

That's Real drag racing..!! The /MP days were something else :thumleft:

I wouldn't reply either..nothing to be gained ..!!

Every time you float the valves the springs give up a little pressure,I would imagine that they are at the point that they now are taking out your seals. Spring cups are not really going to solve anything if your valve springs have lost enough pressure that they are bouncing around enough to...

There's two sizes that we use around here... .490 inside is the smallest and the .530 is the next size up when it comes to seals.. The only way that a seal can take any kind of damage is from the top and if it were to take damage from the side the springs are moving over .500 to be able to...

The only thing that would chew up the seals would be the retainer crashing down on the seal. The only way that happens is valve float...you buzzing it too high or missing a lot of gears or for what ever reason the springs have gone away... I use to see a lot of this back in the day...

Your air bleeds are plugged...spray some carb cleaner down all 8 idle and high speed..make sure your face isn't over top of the carb because it could spray back..use the red straw that comes with the cleaner and spray it directly in each one...that's where I'd go first before you start taking...

Nothing..I repeat NOTHING should be bolted on right out of the box... I just fast forwarded through the video,but those VSI washers are hard and pose no problem for joe average with his 230@50 type of cam.Sure a cup would be better but the person who would be thinking about using these heads...