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I usually use a pair of vice grips to crush the crimp connectors. It seems to hold better than if you use the wire stripper to crimp them. Rarely have problems where wires pull out. But like said above heat shrink and solder are good insurance.

EVENTUALLY Id like to put a nice radio in most likely having two amplifiers. My stock alt just took a crap. Cheapest stock alt around is 54 bucks. I saw a few guys using these 1990s denso alts with out a/c. 120 amp unit. Found on on ebay for 75 bucks to my door...

Mines a solid state with transistors. Great info though.

Yeah that was my backup plan. I am probably going to get an amp and run 4 speakers anyway. Eventually I want to send out the factory radio to be converted to am/fm and have aux inputs and stuff while retaining the factory look. Its not cheap though! I really don't have a ton of cash to throw...

It was a rainy day and I decided to give this a try finally. I spent a long time testing and scratching my head and figuring things out I guess. I went back to this thread and started reading. I read about taking another capacitor and jumping it over the current ones connection. Jumped the first...

Theres a little arm that pops out when you turn the lock cylinder which i think activates the switch for the starter. or at least that is how it is with the push button release style lock cylinder.

I did this tonight in a column I had out of the vehicle. One important thing to note here is YOU CAN'T pull the lock out with the key in the lock cylinder. I had the key in there and this little part was sticking out then I realized to take the key out. Figured id mention that as doing this in...

I think mine was for a 91-94 dodge van. my stock wires plugged rite in. More power and I can change it without removing my headers!

From what I remember It did not do anything but last time i checked was when i took it out 2 or 3 years ago. Its a motorola, do you think i can find any schematics if i search around? Honestly I don't have much electronics experience. I can hook up a radio but don't know anything about the...

I was kind of hoping to learn a thing or two instead of just throwing money at someone to fix it.

In my defense, I have a brain and functioning appendages just like the guy who put it together. I've also got some experience soldering and un-soldering FWIW.

Is there a common point of failure on these am radios? anyone ever fixed there own? don't really want to pay someone to fix it, I am sure I am perfectly capable of repairing it I just don't know where to start. I was thinking if I get it working I could pick up an am fm converter and have...

you might be okay if you use it to trigger a relay, then you can have a nice strong 12v at the coil too.

That was a nightmare. I found an old crusty electronic distributor around and swapped it out and get spark. ](*,) got it started finally.

I tried 3 different coils same results, can't be a bad coil. Don't know a ton about points other then old timers talking about how they were easy and simple and talking about adjusting them fairly often.

still has power at he coil when cranking. I am at wits end with this thing. I messed with the electronic ignition for most of the day then I found a points distributor laying around cleaned the points put it in, wired the one wire to the negitive and had key on to the positive. no spark...

At first I had spark from the coil only once every time i cranked. then i took an old crusty ecu and hooked it up and used some gator clips to ground it, had multiple sparks when cranking so I ran a ground the the orange box on the car and it seemed to give multiple sparks when cranking. then i...

73 dart swinger. Just painted the engine bay so I had everything out of there. key on I have power at all 4 posts of the ballast resistor, power at the positive side of the coil, power at 3 posts in the ECU plug. The only thing I can think rite now is I messed up the connectors over by the...

Figured the issue out, the column I got for the 4 speed had a hacked out connector. :violent1: The connector itself didn't look messed up and they took the two wires they hacked out and connected them to a factory style switch. So I stipped and jammed the wires back in their sockets for a...

got it to crank with a remote start switch jumping to the pin and grounding the other. No signal from the ignition wire.

Just focusing on getting the motor to crank over not worried about starting. I recently painted my engine bay and had everything apart and I also swapped to a 4 speed at the same time. Lots of things to get messed up. Rite now I have everything electrical hooked back up. I put the battery in...

This is pretty cool. Consider the cheapest rev limiter i have seen was a little over $100. then an orange box from summit is $39.95 A few more bucks and you could have this thing. doesn't sound that pricey.

awesome. Do you think if i ditch the noise suppressor that one day, when i do get a radio in there I can just run an inline noise suppressor under the dash and be good?

What is this round canister thing attached to the coil. What is it called, what does it do, and do i really need it? It sure is ugly. Also there is a box that has electrical wires that ran to the stock choke. I have an aftermarket 4 barrel with an electrical choke and have had it hooked...

I mostly posted this up to see what people would say. I figured it was inaccurate information. I think I might send an email to the magazine and see if they reply.

Long story sort they claim with points you need the ballast resistor and with factory electronic ignition you don't and even mention performance gains. They do mention that coil life "may be compromised". I was thinking though that maybe there's a more modern style coil that could handle the...

I hate to revise an old thread but, If yours starts leaking replace it! mine lasted maybe 1000 miles tops. That back of mine looks like a piece of melted cheese. Its 20 dollars with tax from autozone just replace it. I had charging issues it turned out to be the regulator. if it leaks get a new...

My friend had a fancy tester and it was at like 12 volts with the engine running. the fancy tool indicated the charging was weak. Is there any way to test at the alt to make sure there are no shorts or messed up wires from the alt to the battery?

Where do I check on the back of the alternator?

Well I put the battery on the charger for a bit, threw it back in the car and it cranked fine and fired. Just out of curiosity is it a sure fire crappy battery or is it possible its not getting a charge from the alt? Glad its not the starter! I think I will try and get some head wrap at...