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Depends on the type of sure grip - cone types bring less than clutch types. 350 is in the ballpark for a cone type but not for a clutch type. Then it depends on the gear ratio on that sure grip. A 3.55 brings more than a 3.23 or 2.76, simply because more people want that ratio.

There's a whole host of stuff that could be leaking. If you are using trans fluid in your steering gear it could be misleading you. I try not to use trans fluid in my steering box, only power steering fluid, but...I'd degrease/gunk the entire engine, k frame, steering gear and underside of the...

Mine howls between 60 and 70 mph. Never beat on it, and the granny that owned the car before me didn't either, far as I can tell. Drained it and put in fresh lube - no difference. Has less than 80K on it - original miles slant 6 75 A body - big bolt pattern. Changed one outer axle bearing...

Find a rear from a c body or other big bolt pattern car and have it narrowed, about $150 - 200 to narrow the housing. It will probably already have big bolt pattern brakes. Spend another $300 or so and buy good axles and you're done. For what they're asking these days for small bolt pattern A...

Years ago I ran a B&M Quick Click ratchet shifter in a bracket car. Well, it cost me a race when it fell apart shifting from 1st to 2nd in the burnout box. The little ratcheting pawls that engage the teeth of the shifting mechanism would not engage in one direction. Turns out the springs that...

Last time I did a B&M kit, it did not come with the low/reverse clutches and steels, or the low/reverse band. Those are easy to get, and will insure you replace ALL of the wearable friction disc materials. A couple of other things to consider. Either get a deep pan with a drain plug NOW or get...

Still a few slant 6 vans and pickups showing up in Florida bone yards...with 904's attached. Anything I bought from a yard I'd go through anyway, seals, bands, clutch plates, etc. Torque flites are pretty easy to do, so long as you pay attention and don't cut or roll over an oil seal o-ring and...

Same drive shaft as a 340 car, assuming a 727 or 833 and an 8 3/4. May or may not have the big u joint. His behind is definitely sucking wind..

There's really not much to forming a piece of sheet metal over the existing hump to get the curve and then once your angle is set to fab it up from there. Or find a local sheet metal shop that has a roller to bend one up for you. All the aftermarket ones I've seen come from chassis fab companies...

Find a wiring diagram for a 70 or up (maybe 69 too?) a body and use it to wire your 3 wire switch into the existing wiring. The trans switch is not only the reverse light switch but also the neutral safety switch. IIRC there's a switch on the bottom of a 68 column that does some of those...