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I suppose it’s because I always seem to get an uneasy feeling when I come to a stoplight and see everything dim slightly, turn signals start blinking slower, etc...that I think the car is going to die but maybe you’re right. I am running 4AWG cable from the alternator B+ stud to my inline fuse...

Update: I received the new pulley and quickly realized I had a problem. The OD of the recessed area (where the flanged nut sits) on the new pulley is a little over 29mm. With the 22mm pulley nut that came with the alternator, all of my 22mm sockets were too large too fit inside the recessed...

It's a V Belt setup, 15mm bore. After quite a bit of searching I was able to find a 2" OD pulley to give me a 2.625 ratio. Based on the report above, I should be in the 65-70 amp range which I think will be ok.

It's a 2 speed fan out of a early 90's Volvo 940 I looked into the pulley sizes & ratios and believe this is definitely the issue Crank Pulley dia= 5.25" Alt pulley dia= 2.63" Ratio: 2:1 I looked again at the test report and they used a ratio of 3:1 (probably correct for a late 80's...

I had some issues with my 60 amp denso alternator with being able to put out enough power when my electric fan was running, especially at idle. The fan was pretty loud and you could hear the rpms drop at stop, similar to the common issue of headlights dimming at idle. Idle @ ~900 RPM (mild cam)...

72 Dodge Demon/360 5.9l Magnum/727 trans/Mallory Electronic Ignition/ Developed an interesting no-start condition after driving somewhat short distances (~5 miles) After short trips, running errands etc; my car does not start up right away, meaning I will turn the key and nothing happens...

Ok that makes perfect sense thanks

Ok thanks. This may be a stupid question but how exactly are they held in place? The ones at the auto parts store had an external threaded end which looked like all you would need is a nut to hold it against the ashtray cut out. I have no idea what the original ones look like...

I should also specify that I'm mainly talking about the receptacle and not the actual heating element/knob. I want to use it to charge my phone.

I have a 72 Demon that to my knowledge did not come with a cigarette lighter. There is a hole in the ashtray for where I can only assume that it would have gone, but no lighter. Even though it doesn't look like it had one from the factory, would the wiring still be there? I remember seeing...

73charger, if youre still looking, there is a member on Moparts.com "Drag Stripper" thats selling a /6 conversion kit buts its used if you don't mind. I don't have anything to do with it but thought you'd might want to know...

If you have magnum heads you'll have some clearance issue with the B+ output terminal. Tried using the newer chrysler denso alternator (off a 90s ram i think) and I wouldve had to grind the heads down to get it to fit. The toyota denso alternator fits with no problems using the new brackets.

Its funny you mentioned that. I was at advance yesterday and saw a sunpro volt gauge that looked like it would fit in place and I picked it up. Its almost a drop in conversion. I'm thinking about trying to fit my old amp gauge's face to the new volt gauge though like you did.

ill give them a call, couldn't find anything about price on their site

Im interested in converting my stock ammeter to a voltmeter and was wondering which companies can do this, and approx how much they charged? I did a search and saw that redline does it for about 140, but I'm trying to see if anyone has any experience with other vendors? I thought about...

bump...any opinions on what to set the voltage limiter at? leave it at 5.1volts?

took the sending unit out and wired it up so I could sit in the drivers seat, manipulate the float arm. it reads half full will the float arm about 3/4 of the way up. Once I move it down to about 1/4 to it lowest point the gauge starts reading empty. No dead spots when I ohmed it out, maybe...

thanks for the info. I found a lot of that searching through here but not all of it. I'll have to decide if I want to take the time to make my own or just use an off the shelf version. Any idea on if the ivr that I have now may be causing some of my issues? No point in replacing it if theres...

72 Demon, stock standard dash... The fuel gauge for my car works kind of erratically...more like the sending unit is not calibrated for the gauge. If I fill the car up, the gauge will move all the way to full like it should. Problem is it quickly move towards empty afterwards. Just driving...

sorry meant the signals in the grill

Have an intermittent problem with the front right turn signal. Sometimes it works fine, other times the right turn signal will only come on solid when activated (doesn't blink) with the head lights off. If you turn the head lights on, the signal lights come on at all times (doesn't matter what...

what I like to do is remove it from the car, pop the trunk and pull that sending unit wire up through the grommet and connect it to the sending unit. Then take a jumper cable and connect it to a good ground. With the key on/engine off I will move the sending unit arm up and down while looking...

I'm going to upgrade the alternator in my 72 demon to a 120amp unit from a 90 Ramcharger. I currently have the AMP gauge bypassed have 10 gauge wiring in place to support the 65 amp alternator currently installed. With the 120 Amp alternator I have decided to use 6 gauge wiring from the B+...

The car is a 72 Dodge Demon 360/727 with a mopar electronic distributor and a Mallory HyFire 6AL ignition box and Promaster coil and an electric fan. I got this car when I was younger and didn't know much about wiring so theres a lot of subpar wiring and routing from when I went from the /6 to...