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Might be seat belt buzzer relay.

They went to the reverse light switch on my '68 Barracuda. It had what looked like lamp cord leading to the 4-speed transmission switch.

Thanks for the info RedFish. Guy's on this site like you, Del and clifftt make a great resource!

Thanks guys, the Molex connector idea sounds like it would ease reassembly also. Restorations can be so much fun...

I'm currently replacing the dash pad on my new 'cuda and I discovered pin broken off the inst cluster circuit board. Can it be repaired? The pin is for the right turn signal indicator. Pictures of the board and completed pad replacement. Thanks!

Nice explanation Del!

You guy's crack me up!

That's a Real "Purdy" engine!!!

I installed a denso alt on my '69 and it put's out 14 volts at idle with blower motor on high and headlights on!

I'm sorry, I didn't want to start a firestorm or call anyone an idiot. I just wanted some opinions on remote start kits. If anyone is offended, it was unintentional on my part! Sheesh!!!

Agree!!!

Thanks for the advice Guy's! Sounds like I'll pass.

I know it's not mopar, but a friend want's me to install a remote start kit on her 2009 Nissan Murano. Anyone have knowledge about this? Thanks.

Look's to be having a doggone GOOD time!

That's the way they were until '68 I believe.

I had the same problem and it turned out to be the ign. switch. voltage drop between battery feed and ign. on circuit. 15.7 volts will eventually boil the battery dry!

Thanks, I just found the specs on the Mopar electronic ignition kit I installed that stated that 50degrees @ 2600 RPM max advance for my 318. I set it to that, adjusted the idle & road tested. What a difference! No ping and lot's of low end!

My question is about setting your timming with a vacuum gauge. I've heard that you adjust to the highest vacuum at idle, and then retard 1" of highest reading. Is this accurate, & should the vacuum advance be active or plugged during this procedure? (my advance is connected to a timmed port...

I did this upgrade to my Dart 3 years ago and have been problem free (electrically speaking) since! Worth the time and materials!

I would think you could just use a '68 & up Headlight switch and they would work!

I had a simular situation that turned out to be the reluctor coil. There is a resistance range for this coil, and the defective part was out of range. Hope this helps!

I had this happen when converting to an electronic volage regulator from a mechanical one. It turned out to be the voltage wire feeding the regulator had a voltage drop from where I could not determine. I tapped into another hot wire in the engine bay that was reading battery voltage, and...

I've had this happen when the ground strap from the rear of engine to the firewall was left off.