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I would have someone turn the wheel side to side and get under it and look for anything loose or having too much play, including the boxes mounting bolts. When I first got my '64 the idler was loose and the box was rocking side to side. Also put a jack under it and feel for any rocking up, down...

Just checked mine on my '64 it's a 1-5/16.

Thats it. And as stated back it off just a very slight amount at a time.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=89918&highlight=explorer

I use a grinder too.

Sweet! Hopefully someone who has had experience with them will chime in.

Weld it.

I know Hellwig is supposed to be coming out with one soon if not already. One of the vendors is on here, I think his name is Dave? Said to fit much better than alot of the other aftermarket ones.

When I switched over my '64 to a small block I put in the .920 bars. They really made a big improvement without being too harsh.

Subframe connectors are mandatory! A little test you should do is to go to a local shop with a two post lift and have them raise your car up. Look at the door gaps and watch in amazement!

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I have had mine for over a year now and I love it. can be a pain parking sometimes but turning a corner at speed is much better. plus it gave me a reason to keep and repair the factory "big ***" steering wheel.

yes you can. go to flaming-river.com, it is a small sector shaft.

I had the same thing happen years ago and checked it just like 6pk said. ended up adjusted too far one way. I just disconnected the pitman from the centerlink and found the center position lock to lock with the wheel ending up straight. then adjust the tie rod sleeves evenly until the wheels...

if its all stock its a 7-1/4.

For sure get a new alignment shop. what I would do is set the ride height to where you want it then go get the alignment done. you might have control arm bushing or ball joint problems so just jack the front end up and try to wiggle the wheel up and down and side to side. if its really bad you...

ther are two main types of lug nuts, tapered seat and mag or "shank" type. the original studs where meant for steel wheels so you do need longer studs. those wheels need a tapered seat nut just like the ones you have. if they where meant for a mag stud the holes would be larger and the face...

any auto parts store should be able to help you out. you can check out the dorman products catalogue or online to find the proper knurl size and length then just find a longer one. its a pain to do it online so I would just go to the store and look in the catalogue.

the bolt is a 3/8-16. grab a grade 8 or stainless and as said above some sealer since it goes into the coolant.

on my '64 I went with the .920's when I did the V8 swap. I remember when I got the car how sloppy the thing was. then in a couple days I put on a disc brake kit, all new suspension, all new steering including a 16:1 maual box, and the bars. it was like a whole different car.

on mine that hole in the pump is not threaded. just the block is, so you have a long bolt that goes all the way through.

its been done but its quite a bit of work for the front. most of the work would be reinforcing the upper shock mount to be load bearing for all that weight. you will also have to fab a large open upper control arm for the bag to pass through and the lower can still be used but it will need a...

knurl .563 and shoulder 17/32 for cast drum and .570 knurl and 7/16 shoulder for steel encased drum. any auto store should carry dorman studs to change yours out

Autozone and Napa use the same supplier, Edelmann. Just a different box.

:cheers:

I did the same thing and made my own but I just wonder why the applications don't fit the early ones. they look the same but I don't have a set or a car to measure the length and rail size.

Since they came off the car also look for any markings like if one end (the flat faced end) is clean since you know that part would be pretty new looking if it came out of the front. any markings that might help figure what end it came out of. hopefully the extra set of hands gets it done.

are they new or used? they should have numbers or be marked Lor R. when I install them I put them in numbers or letters to the rear. also not dead sure but most times numbers even are left and odds are right. but if new just put them in facing rear.

if you can have someone move the arm while holding the front in position, then from the back just get a socket and hammer it in. also you have them all greased up? I had the shocks and evereything off when I put mine in.

You mean the hex won't line up or they are binding going in?