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Considering getting a new unit as opposed to drilling holes for a return line. I see quite a few options over pages of looking. Might just try a bulkhead fitting, too. Any recommendations for a known GOOD unit? 'Good' would include a sender that works with the OEM gauge, a float that might...

I put a dual quad on my car when it had a '73 340 (low comp smog motor) in it. Used two out-of-the-box Carters, 650 AVSs IIRC. Progressive linkage. From sea-level to 4000' el. never had a problem starting or running. Got over 20mpg on the highway. Drove it cross country at least once. Had...

Thanks for the input(s).

Re: 1969 DODGE DART Edelbrock 75763 Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Intake Manifolds | Summit Racing It seems the Chevy versions of this manifold have a notch cut in the L/R divider wall...the Mopar versions do not. Is there a reason for that? Seems hard to believe that gap does something in...

Yes, it is a vent line that went to the OEM canister in the engine bay...but at the tank it runs THRU a separator (inside the tank), so it can NOT be used as a return fuel line?

My '73 Duster fuel tank has a hose fitting on the top, presumably for the vapor capture setup that was originally on the car. That fitting is connected to a vapor separator inside the tank? As such, the fitting could NOT be used as a return line? Not for EFI, but for a fuel return to help...

Re: Installation of carb spacer and heat shield. Which works better: Spacer below the heat shield, or the way around? I could make an argument for either, but I'm sure there is a preferred sequence. Thanks for the input!

My Holley does have nylon inserts at the mount holes..it is black, does NOT look like yours. Different version or just a different item, I couldn't say. What I'm referring to is a spacer that is part of a heat shield 'kit' from Holley, but is it's own piece. Yes. The resin spacer will...

I have two heat insulators to choose from to try on my car. One is from Holley, a 1/2" item made of layers of gooped paper. The second is a resin impregnated/phenolic looking piece. The Holley piece is compressible as evidenced by the hard plastic bits used in the mounting holes. The resin...

I was kidding. Obviously, the two cars are related only in body style and color. Oh...and the number of doors.

Pretty much the same car...except he has a vinyl top.

An update to this hugely popular thread: I asked Edelbrock about it. Their reply: '...Edelbrock Discontinued our EnduraShine Finish, as our Coater Lost the Lease on the Machine...' So, hardy and useful or hardly useful, it's not happening from Edelbrock.

Is the Endurashine process worth a hoot? I bought one of their 'tumbled' polished carbs that turned out to be a maintenance *****. Endurashine should be a better finish than that. Question comes from looking at an Endurashine 7576 (RPM Performer Air Gap) for sale on the bay. They don't put...

Yes, spending coin on the unnecessary is useless. A 'plain' perf/rpm/air-gap is $450. Long ago I had a 'plain' manifold...and the resulting stains and ugliness was not something I will repeat. I'm not much interested in a show-n-shine engine, but much less interested in yucky ugly...

I am surprised that most think an air-gap isn't the 'fixer' I thought it would be. That big free-flow airspace between the runners and the valley I figured would be The Way to resolve the problem. I wanted and air-gap when I bought the parts for this engine...it wasn't available at that time...

Understood. The AN fittings and expense comment had to do with getting the loop/return as close to an actual flow through as possible, by putting the regulator 'after' the secondary bowl feed, to make the LEAST out of a dead head situation. Still pleading ignorance with the 'look at'...

I do not understand the '...enter the regulator backwards from a dead head regulator....' part. Anything I do for a 'bypass' function is going to be a dead head system. It's a carb, not injection, so the best I can do is get the regulator as close to the 'end' of the linear (not looped) system...

Yes. The Mallory is noted as being no longer available from the two retailers I found that had it listed. I have a Holley 12-887 on my 'list-of-stuff' for a return line if that ends up being the direction this is headed. That part would fit my real estate situation better. All of this has...

Just recalled having a charcoal canister on the car years ago. That's where my cool-can sits now. Having had that canister means I have a return line fitting on my fuel tank hardware. That would make running a return line a whole lot easier. From 'inline', a pre-fit line is $65 or so. Get a...

Make sure your idle speed setting is a good ways AWAY from anything happening advance-wise in the distributor. A bad example: Your idle gets you 6" of vacuum and your vacuum canister kicks in at 5". Bad example #2: Your idle is set to 800rpm and your distributor mechanical starts at 900rpm...

Meaning the process of recirculation will no longer act as a cooling process: It will be INsufficient in that regard. Granted, that would take awhile...and maybe never happen. ...was just a question.

You probably would have said if it applied: Did you have any too-volatile issues without the Air Gap to the extent you could say the Air Gap made a difference?

NOT pulling. I have an electric pump mounted at the tank. A question on the return line idea: Eventually all the fuel will become the same temperature. The fuel in the tank will not always be cooler due to the constant recirculation. What makes the idea useful is that the engine is not run...

Stock 'X' heads. 4779 Holley. Insulated fuel lines. This last stoppage, the fuel bowls were easy enough to touch...nowhere near the temps bubbling fuel bowls have been up to in the past. Fuel lines come into the Holley from the front, are well away from header heat...as far away as I can get...

I have been running an Edlebrock Performer RPM for some time, always with the same problem. This area does a 'fuel change' twice a year with a change to 'summer blend' around Memorial Day. That causes a problem when an 'unseasonably' warm day comes around in April or early May. The vapor...

You are referring to the bracket that Dave mentioned? I did buy one'a those. A brand new one..with not quite the good-looking patina of the bay item. Haven't sorted out its efficacy in my situation. <pic> attached

My head hurts at the thought of making it work just looking at one'a those things. A Black Art indeed. But then, I sent my brand new still-in-the-box Holley to a carb tuner before I bolted it on, and other than 4-corner adjustments, haven't touched it or had it off in 20 years. My head...

I did miss that. Still, I don't see it. Your bracket has a horizontal mount, mine is vertical. You end up vertical, with the 90º bend of the piece giving some lift. I would end up horizontal, giving me some offset. Kudos for giving me another chance. Still, I think not. You DO need to get...

Much shorter than what I have. Thanks for looking, though!

That's fine, but metal fabrication isn't something I'll be doing. Besides, there remains the 5HP issue. Sorry. Can't do without it!