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i just bought the whole set up so they will cover it or i would be very pissed to spend another 350$ for a rebuild and i wish i could have found a org one

ya rod was changed came with kit who knows on how long 4 weeks atleast i know the booster is a 8" dual diaphragm looks like a bendix not sure just wondering if they will give a littel more info and i can track one down my self send mine back and get a refund see what you get when u spend...

theirs only one line runs to a port on the intake

talked to right stuff again today they seem to think the brand new booster i got from them is junk so after i had it painted and all the crap now i need a new one to replace my new one thats 3 months old o yea sir there on back order WELL jeeez thats really good so will see i dont really...

well after fighting with the gear box fitting to stop leaking i looked into breaks heres where i ended up checked vacuum i do have 18 pds at idle so that's good checked the valve at booster that's working bleed front breaks small amount of air did a little back and fourth in my drive way no...

well like i said its all from right stuff all of it so if the booster master or any of that is wrong they must not have any ideal on breaks and i hope they will correct that i remember every one saying 1 1/8 is the correct master i didnt order to that size thats just how they sell it so maybe...

right stuff has all the parts also pre bent lines cheap two just look u right stuff break parts

valve was used but looked very nice only one line on booster to hook up and its hooked to rear intake runner driver side where every one said to run it adjusted the rod end to meet the pedal when installed so should be no preload there car rolls perfect when pushing it n neutral so i...

yes

i went to power kelsey hayes breaks all new master is 1 and 8TH bore new booster bought as kit from right stuff all new lines every thing bleed breaks fire car up started going thru check list on every thing sense whole car is fresh noticed pedal is nice and high but seems a bit stiff and...

http://www.yearone.com/yodnn/tech/TechFAQ/WheelsTiresBrakesFAQ/MoparBrakeLinesValves/tabid/422/Default.aspx

ill give it a shoot just seems like the plug would be on the intake runner and its not its like its on littel runner thats why it makes no sense on what its for but i already set it tonight so when i get her fired up ill let you know

nippel is not a problem i probley have 30 of them from size to height what ever i need just that port was my only concern

i probed that hole and it has a wall on the intake runner side so what ever this port its not part of that last runner that i can tell carbon smells like fuel to so im still lost if this is a good point or not for vacuum

here is the only port i have and i see see carbon on the bottom of plug and looks like its inside the hole to so is this some how tied to the exshaust that im missing or is this a good point to grab vacuum from yea i got a large brass fitting supply at home just for these reasons

ahhh i will look in a few mins after my snack break

Ive done the swap now just doing final work on it all i need a vacuum point for the booster i have a CALI carb on my car sense thats were it came from only two vacuum points one small one for the dizzy and one large one witch is where the pcv is hooked up i was thinking if i tee into that would...

yea thats the lines i got they kept listing the wrong style for the kelsey hayes stuff and the one set shown was about 2" to short

number one i have kelsey hayes there different lines then standerd calipers number two it says third post down i got then all ready thanks thou

Ive tried all over they couldn't really narrow it down to the kelsey hayes breaks new got at napa knows mopar he got them first try

i really need a good number for the front rubber lines no one seems to have any ideal what im talking about at the stores no listings and ive called some of the bigger brake swap companys and there no help can any one please give me a good number on lines they know work and i could use a...

jumper tubes??? 4 piston kelsey hayes breaks?? there called cross over tubes call rightstuff or go online and look the up there like 25$ for all for peaces thats all they do is breaks they will have it all

ok well after looking at a buddys org mopar parts book from his dads dodge dealer the part numbers are a twin from drum to disk the only change was a d added on it from what i seen also got my other ball joints in today at the local parts store went there on lunch and sat down with the guys...

if i go this route ill actually put them in my proto mill or cnc and yes cut them with proper bits not just by hand with a meijer drill bit to break off inside and screw me over good looking on them part numbers and saftey of the proper tools thou part numbers dont lie i guess

steve i was not trying to be jumpy at all if it came across that way im sorry i was just saying that i just bought the drum ones got them all painted up and installed and then decided to go over to the disk breaks and was told they were the same so i forgot about it intill the install. I got a...

none of these items are carried in stock and most of the time they just show a random picture or carry the same pic over from the other part in this case one drum or disk ball joints i tried that at the store the other day and i got the same pic and two different places its a good call thou...

its my steering yes and drilling out the ball joint HOLE thats already there by 1 mil is not going to affect any thing strength or saftey wise if it would have mopar would have done alot more racing and beefing in that area i have ordered my disk ball joints and when i pick them up monday i...

thats funny locally the disk break ones are 98$ drum ones are cheaper like 70$ dame o well some one need a brand new set of moog lowers freshly painted satin black installed on car but never had a mile on them looks like ill be losing money again

im going with the kelsey hayes 4 piston 4'' bolt pattern

68 dart had 10" drums im in the middel of a break swap i went to install front lower ball joints and the disk break bolts do not go thru the ball joints drum break ones are smaller and fit thru ball joint but are to small for spindel i was going to reuse my drum ball joints i was told there...