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My friend recommended Bob's Alignment at 2330 San Pedro St. in L.A. My friend said that he is well-versed in classic American iron.

Well, actually....I HAD thought of it before (of course) but I figured it would be more of a pain in the *** than this. I was thinking I'd have to weld or braze some metal in. This looks fairly easy.....

Yes, great write-up and this is huge. I've got a couple automatic columns out in the yard that I think I'll use now. Thanks!

Early style LCA's....interesting! Do you know what size the front sway bar is (thickness)?

Awesome car and he's one lucky dude! That's one of my favorite color combos too. I could probably spend 1 hour looking over all the details of it!!

Now I know how spoiled I am......

Online article?? I plan on running the MP offset shackle kit that adds approx. 3/4". That's fine for me, and I don't have to mess with the wheelwells.

Boy, I'll sure agree with both of these statements! How many zillions of cars came with front sway bar only from the factory? I would say rear sway bars are only for those who are really into the handling aspect of their cars, and I remember reading that it can add an element of "twitchiness"...

Hey, good question though.....can't be too safe. I'm planning on doing the same install too, I just hope there's no problem with running those offset hangers out back with my SS leaf springs. Those things are hard as a rock! Hate to start bending the hangers. I also want to take my housing...

Heck, I'd install it in a heartbeat. Better than letting it sit around, collecting dust. I don't know who told you about the understeer, but that sounds like B.S. to me. It's just less turns lock-to-lock and more of a ***** to park the car when you're cranking that wheel stopped. Now...

I'm in agreement with Matt here 110%. I think with wider wheels/tires, larger diameter torsion bars (like .99's) and possibly a fiberglass hood (if you want), handling should be just fine.

Oooohh.....I'd never seen that setup! That's clean! I've always rolled with that welded-on flat washer trick!

I agree, totally.....that factory sway bar mount looks like deflection city without an additional tab like you welded in there. Nice.

I'll believe ya on that! I've got an old 1" Hellwig bar on the front of my '69 Dart, and I couldn't even imagine wanting more stiffness than that!

Yes, but I noticed it says "tubular", so if that means hollow, then 1. that's pretty awesome for reduced weight and 2. it may change its characteristics as far as not being as rigid as the usual solid 1.25 bar.

I've got a mint, granny-car '67 K-member from a slant 6 Barracuda. Cheap, but I know shipping may not be. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/2709433523.html

I put a (I think) Hellwig front swaybar kit on my '69 Dart. It was somewhat cheap, at least 1", but used some cornball bracketry that clamped onto the lower control arms. Still worked wonders for handling though, even with the stock 6 cylinder torsion bars. But to address your question, I...

Hell yeah....I'd definitely do it. Even if you need to grind the hell outta the old bent up LCA's in order to save the brackets.....no biggie! I remember a while back, some guy (I think on Ebay) was reproducing them.....totally cool, but I don't think anyone is now, as far as I know. LCA's...

I've seen people cut them off and re-weld them back on.....kind of a "down N dirty" thing, but hey....can't beat the price. You could probably find an old 7 1/4" rear for less than the new Mancini perches.....lol..

I did replace mine on my '67, but they're a little bit different style. I still had to cut open the metal holder then re-weld it again. I made sure to go slow and use the thinnest blade I could on my die grinder, so as not to take away too much metal. It turned out pretty good.....just a pain...

The hot ticket (I read from an old Mopar magazine) is to weld a large flat washer on top of the steel sleeve, then press it out, using some all thread and a couple of nuts. Saves the LCA from getting scored up from chiseling. You'll have to put the allthread with a nut on it inside the steel...