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Yeah. One of the most common areas for rust, bubbles which usually indicate improperly repaired rust now bubbling and it is something to do with the paint process. I call BS. Are there other things the seller told you that turned out to be not completely true? It is hard to tell from the small...

Yep, go to a local glass shop, they will cut one for you.

The rad support (what you are calling crossbars?) was crudely painted black in the factory on light colored cars. This was done so that the body color couldn't be seen through the grill. It was sprayed from below with little or no masking.

Great thread, thanks. I am very likely going to purchase this 68 tomorrow and will be going down the same path. It is supposed to be a dry rust free car. I will keep you posted.

Dont know about plastic, but I have used the external handles from late 70s through 80s trucks and b vans o a bodies. I seem to recall that there is a linkage part attached to the handle that needs to be changed.

As far as I know no one reproduces them and most are badly pitted. I have thought about trying to use early (65) mustang back up lights as they are reproduced and are similar.

In 68 they are incorporated into the outer rim of the tailight. 67 and 69 have three different lengths of round reverse lights on the valance, below the bumper. I think 67 had the medium length and 69 had either short or long depending on build date. I am sure someone else will chime in.

Yes, read bumper corner filler I believe. It goes between the bumper and the body.

No trim, just a paint line. It would have been better with trim.

Hey thanks. When I bought the car it had a black top and black 68 style rump stripe. It looked crappy. The white is actually a cream, it went well with the orange. I sold the car several years ago, it went to Germany. It was a lot of fun, raunchy 440, full manual auto, fenderwell headers.

Some where painted that way from the factory. At least in 68 and 69. Here is a pic of my old 72 that had cancer under the vinyl. I stripped the vinyl and intended to to be reinstall the trim, but the body man misunderstood and shaved the trim studs off.... The roof is painted in this pic.

Here is a recent thread on the same subject. 73 dart grille >>75 dart

Rainy, if you look at joshcooks car you will see the 75-76 headlight surrounds, also the 75-76 beak trim which says "dodge". The 73-74 beak trim is more plain like on my white car above.

I too have done it on this car. The headlight surrounds are slightly different and the header panel (beak) is different. The two steel mounting tabs that are part of the header panel are different shape and in a different location 73-74 vs 75-76. With a little ingenuity and patience you will...

Paint it youself in the backyard..... build a plastic booth, or do the roll on tremclad or rustoleum thing. Google it, there are some awesome results. Best option though is to approach the local colleges that teach autobody. My buddy had his 70 cuda painted lime green at the college here in...

I wonder if any of the Aussie built A bodies (or south American) ever had factory power windows that could be used?

Definitely 1969 Dodge Dart. Looks like they are in decent shape too. Post them up for sale in the for sale section! What are they worth? The million dollar question. Peruse the for sale adds to determine.......

The arm has to be lifted up agains the spring in order to release the lock tab. Have a look, you will see... Black might blend in well on your car and look alright but personally I dont like the loom of blacked out trim.

Reminds me of 1975. Dad just had a local muffler shop weld new bumper mounts on our 30 model A. He was pissed because they were crooked or in the wrong place. 7 year old me thought...... and said to dad "well just take it back and have them unweld it". LOL. Not that simple!

Chemical paint stripper on the chrome. Careful not to get it on anything else....

Perhaps it has the wrong bumper bolts and they are thread bound, or the square shank is too long preventing proper clamp up on the bumper?

Yes.....i was thinking of Dodge Dart. My apologies.

67 wheel lip moldings are one year only and are stainless steel. 68 and up are anodized aluminum.

The way I understand there are three lengths. 69 short and long and 67 medium. I am sure someone can add here....I do nave a set of 69 short for sale and 69 long for sale. PM me of you are interested.

Try here, http://bobsclassicautoglass.com/ I have never purchased anything from them but their website looks pretty good, LOL

You could try some different solvents in small areas and see what happens. It totally depends what kind of spray paint was used.....lacquer oil or enamel based. Solvents that come to mind are lacquer thinner and acetone (essentially nail polish remover). Stop if you see he factory colour coming...

Here is a link to an older thread on it http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=81458&highlight=tube+trunk+california+vent

Yes, there was a thread a few weeks ago about this very thing. sabre67 what part of BC are you from?

X2 A dead giveaway to a crappy paint job or color change is when the striker post and latch mechanism is sprayed over.

Some nice options though......front bucket seats (with the buddy seat, kind of rare) and air con. That is a great parts donor car for a rust free car. Nice speedo, LOL