Search results for query: *

Change the speedo gear so it reads faster, that's always good for few more mpg's. Although real world results may vary....

Looks like there's an allen wrench down in the motor mount underneath all the seeds and rat turds.

I love the "thud" sound a slant six makes as it hits the ground when I kick them off the tailgate of my truck at the scrapyard.

Be sure to pick any pieces of valve stem seals, timing gear pieces and left over chunks of RTV and old gasket material out from under the tin cover on the pick up tube.

My 82 D150 had a 10" clutch w/122 tooth flywheel. You might want to count teeth or do some measuring before putting money into parts you can't use.

The flathead that was in my 46 plymouth had the same fan with the big hole in the center, it didn't have the spacer though.

I think all engines were painted black by about 1983, before that they were chysler blue.

Mid to late 70's trucks were notorious for having bad ammeters in 'em, causes the whole truck to go dead electrically. Could be the source of your electrical problem. I don't know when they redesigned the instrument cluster in the 80's but the fix is either to bypass the ammeter completely or...

Just drop in a really worn out 318 and slap a 4 bbl carb on it, that'll be about the same as a mildly hopped up six.

Should be two sets of points in it running against a 4 lobe cam, one set makes the contact and the other set breaks the contact to fire the coil, each set of points only did half the work so they were supposed to last twice as long. Parts are hard to get and expensive for them. There's really...

I didn't know a slant six could spin that fast, I'm sure there's a handful of guys running them that hard but I think the majority of slant sixes will never turn past 4000 rpm. I think the stock stuff will do just fine.

The wieand and offy manifolds bolt to the exhaust manifold like a stocker for carb heat, the clifford doesn't. The heat under the carb helps atomize the fuel better (better mpg) the clifford manifold is more for all out perfomance, the hose fittings on the clifford are kind of a band aid cure...

Didn't Know you could get A/C and the sno-commander package, I'm assuming it doesn't have power steering.

It should they're both 122 tooth flywheels, you just have to match the crank hub size between the flywheel and engine, pre 68 uses a small hub on the crank and 68 and up has the large hub The bolt pattern on the 11" bell wont work with the 833

With the earlier (60's) slant six you either got the 9 1/4" clutch in cars and some very light truck applications or the 11" clutch in truck only applications. In the late 70's-mid 80's slants with overdrive 4 speeds behind them could be had with 10" clutches in em' which would be a slight...

I have an old 40 series flowmaster w/non mendral bent 2.5" single exhaust on mine (it droned) I then added an old thrush glass pack after it right at the end of the system and it sounds just right. It has a nice noticeable rumble at idle but not obnoxiously load a highway speeds.

Here's mine freshly painted with rustoleum royal blue with a little bit of white mixed in to get it as close to Chysler blue as I could Here it is again about one year and about 8000 daily driven miles later

Glad to see I'm not the only one with a 20+ second slant six car, don't even have to break the speed limit to get to the end of the track.

I'd say when it got rebuilt someone put the wrong impeller on it. I wouldn't use it. It's definitely not a marine pump, marine engines don't use that style water pump

I've tried the 1 bbl vs 2bbl thing with my dart and the 2 bbl definitely out performs the single bbl holley. I used an Offenhauser 4 bbl manifold with some home made adapters so I could run a 1920 Holley 1 bbl or switch to a Carter bbd 2 barrel without changing manifolds. The Carter 2bbl gave...

If you want a little more performance out of that little 6 just put a stock 2bbl manifold on it , skip the header and 4bbl carb, there's not enough gain for dollars spent on that stuff. It looks like it already has a larger exhaust on it already, a 2 1/4" - 2 1/2" pipe gives the best performance...

Did it look like this?

It will bolt right up without any problems as long as its for a slant 6

Nice door "panels" :scratch:

Leave it alone dont flush it unless you want spun bearings.

If your not concerned with squeezing every bit of hp out of a stock engine keep the stock exhaust manifold but run a true 2 1/4" single exhaust all the way to the bumper, and run a super six 2bbl intake w/the correct 2bbl carb so the choke linkage will work. If you wanted to get a little fancy...

Overdrive 833 from an '82 half ton pickup, so technically yes its a 3 speed w/od.

I get around 25 mpg highway and around 20 city in my stripped down 72 4dr. engine: bone stock 225 w/2 1/2" exhaust and 170k miles on it trans: 4 speed od from a pickup truck rear: 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip body: sparce interior no carpet no back seat, manual steering, manual brakes, never...

If its the kind that clamps to the trans with U bolts there wont be much better out there, One simple thing to check is to make sure the shifter itself isn't flopping around under there and the rods ends arn't sloppy.

The 383 works well with a 2.14" valve because of the bore size, its .250 larger than a 360 so there is more room for a bigger valve.