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Hey, I didn't see your question back in June. I haven't compared the front to rear. I would imagine that the center register is different, and the width is also not the same. The rears are 10 x 1.75". If I remember correctly, the fronts are 10 x 2".

Plus, if you don't cut them before you press them out, they can hog out the knurl in the hub and any studs pressed through in the future may be loose, allowing them to spin if someone hits them with an impact wrench. A swedge cutter used to be a tool that every brake mechanic had in his box...

That's a part number for a front drum.

They are. I have some of them, myself. I have heard of some people opening the box and having the incorrect drums, but the correct BD60123 is small pattern. I opened all four boxes of the ones I have to make sure that they were 5x4.

Do you have a part number? Their website claims a 69 340 Dart should have a 9" rear drum, which we know is wrong, and it's $32.99. RockAuto has the Wagner ones for $71.89. It's part number BD60123. It's the only rear 10" small bolt pattern drum that I've known of available new for decades...

And they will be 10" or 11", not 10.5. And like crackedback said, grab everything. Backing plates, drums, shoes, hardware, etc. Many parts you will want to replace, but some are not available new. If you get everything off of a donor car, you won't end up missing stuff.

Those should be small bolt pattern, but to check, measure across from one stud to another stud two places away. If it's "about" 4", it's small bolt, if it's "about" 4.5", it's big bolt pattern.

The stock A Body 8.75" brakes are 1.75" wide.. If you buy axles and try to use the drums from a later car with 2.5" wide brakes, the drum will hit the backing plate. The backing plate for the 2.5" brakes is "offset" or "cupped" more towards the center of the car to allow for the wider brake...

No, the offset is different. I believe that you can get aftermarket big bolt pattern axles that use the same offset as the stock axles, but you'll need to redrill small bolt pattern drums. Most aftermarket axles will be setup to be used with the wider 10x2.5" brakes. You'll want to steal the...

Better return that one.

He doesn't keep his website up-to-date, but he does respond to emails quickly, and is great to talk to on the phone. 406-883-4772 [email protected]

Did you buy new e-brake cables from Cass when you bought the kit?

You need the upper control arms and balljoints. And they are a single piston caliper.

I did that swap on a 67 Dart convertible, and the cables worked fine with the 11" brakes I swapped onto it. I compared lengths with the cables that were on the 11" brakes, and they were the same. What I didn't pay attention to what where they attached compared to the A Body cables. I had to...

As a footnote, the snap ring version is usually seen as the better bearing. It allows for a bit more movement of the bearing in the housing. Sometimes the flange breaks loose from the "solid" version, which is not a good thing.

Here is a picture of the "snap ring" style. The flange is actually not connected to the bearing. http://www.magnumforce.com/images/product_images/strange/IMG_0006.JPG

Basically, is the flange with the five bolt holes attached to the bearing, or is it loose, and pushes against a "snap ring" in order to keep the bearing in the housing?

Look at this and see if it helps. http://www.reillymotorsports.com/140-7144.pdf

Can you look for numbers on the bearing, or get some pictures? I'm not familiar with bear ***. Please don't post any pictures of bear ***. Maybe a deer head.

Ah, the fifth hole. Is that like the second shooter? Ha, ha. Anyway, I see that hole in this picture. Thanks for the info, guys.

I'm helping a guy put together an A Body 8.75" rear end for his 73+ Duster that currently has an 8.25" rear. Will he be able to unbolt the whole rear brake assemblies from the 8.25" rear and use them on an A Body 8.75" housing, if we buy big bolt pattern axles? Will we be able to just drill...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrysler-Mopar-aluminum-brake-master-cylinder-pkg-NEW-/170598375109?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b8749ec5#ht_500wt_991

Clamp it in a vise, put a large screwdriver through the bolt hole, and yank, HARD. It's just a little rubber ring holding it in, but sometimes they are a real pain.

Here's one source. There are several places to get one. http://auctionworks.com/StoreFrontProfiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=92390&c=68055&i=16046796 The original Mopar part number is 2074960. It's dsicontinued, but it may help you locate one. There is a good chance someone on here...

It's a lot easier once you know that it can be difficult and may need some good yanking.

Look in the back of the cylinder and make sure it has the groove machined in the hole for the new rubber band. And like others said, getting the old pushrod out is a pain. It may be easiest if you pull it from under the dash while the MC is still bolted to the firewall. Maybe not. I have...

Are you still using the A Body backing plates? If so, you need to get your hands on the backing plates for a B or E Body 10" drum. The A Body 10" shoes are 1.75" wide, but the new axles are designed for 10 x 2.5" shoes. The backing plates you need are deeper, allowing for more room for the...

Yes, you can install the larger rotor as rick4106 said, and you would reuse the calipers. You would just need the correct rotors, the correct caliper adapters, and possibly the correct bearings. I've done it. It's a simple swap.

Wagner's been around for a long time. I used to work for a guy that worked for a million years in brake and allignment shop. He always said that Wagner was the best, and he would use Raybestos if Wagner wasn't available. He wouldn't touch the "rest of the crap out there."

I've been telling people that for years. I'm a legend in my own mind.