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I have a single MP R/T head. New never bolted to a vehicle, but will need some clean up from sitting around for a long time. It is a complete head, but will sell either complete or bare.

Those are my heads! :thumblef:

I guess I was left out of the loop, because the O.P. stated it "runs great" and is "real ballsy". Neither of which are commonly associated with a 318 that is "tired".

Why bother messing with it then? :dontknow: If anything, just keep adding good bolts ons. I mean as long as it's running strong who cares how many miles are on it or who put it together or beat on it already. Since 318's are free from most people, if you're going to build one just get another...

The following day we welded up the header primary tube with the hole in it and shimmed the engine about 1/4-inch (higher) for more clearence. We also got the new water pump installed and changed the oil. My dad robbed the Sun 'Super Tach II' out of the 1964 Ford F-100 and hooked it up so he had...

The next day we removed the original bench seat and put a bucket seat in its place. We just customized a set of early 90's Eagle Premier bucket seat tracks and they fit pretty well. They are very comfortable, but don't look right in the car (fabric covered). Not too mention they sit a tad high...

My buddy never drove a "muscle car" before so we went for a ride and I let him drive it back to the shop. While out we went to the local certified scale and weighed it. The car is 3,240 lbs. The fuel gauge doesn't work so I wasn't sure how much was in there but it should have been around 1/2...

My dad is a transmission tech by trade so he knows how to adjust the kickdown and it is hooked up. This photo was taken while getting the car to fire with the new larger 770 cfm carb. It runs great now and thanks for the link(s) and help. This will all help us get it dialed in. Looks like lots...

We got the Dart running pretty good, but it still has a pretty good hesitation/bog when the throttle is pressed down fast (or on a quick/hard launch). Then the car comes to life and pulls like a freight train. The car is very basic and just put together for pennies so it is making do without...

Magnum = electric fuel pump (low pressure for carbuetor use) + intake manifold (that accepts a carburetor and bolts to the Magnum heads) + carburetor + car oil pan. The 5.9L Magnum is a much better choice over the LA360 though. Lighter rotating assembly, roller camshaft, good flowing heads...

I have the Mopar Performance R/T iron heads and love them. I bought mine for $580.00 shipped brand spanking new on eBay. One head was assembled, one was bare. Do you have direct back to back comparison flow bench numbers to prove this? I heard they flow almost as well as the MP R/T heads...

I never had any sealing issues when it was on my 1994 production Magnum engine. My friend now runs this intake on his (my old) 1972 Dodge Challenger with an LA 360 ith no problems either. dgc333 - Was there a large improvement from the LA to Magnum heads when you switched them on your LA...

Yes, that is the one. Its a good intake, reguardless of what the haters might tell you.

Is it the newer 5.9L Magnum? If so the regular 1967-91 LA small block intakes will not bolt on. I see you have an intake, just wanted to make sure you were aware of this before you are like ... wtf? If it is a standard 360 LA then forget I said anything.

I would prefer something that makes as much power as the Mopar .484" but idles & drives better. Compression will be around 9.0:1 I do not care about a set HP level. Just want a camshaft that will not interfere with my power disk brakes, power steering, and can be driven a few days a week...

What do you guys think? Could my engine handle the Lunati 60305 or the CompCams XE285HL. Should I back down to the Lunati 60304 or CompCams XE275HL?? Can I forget about my power disk brakes with either of these camshafts???

hmmmm... The next step up would be the Lunati Voodoo. Duration @ .050 IN/EX: 242/252 Lift IN/EX: .533"/.552" LSA / ICL: 110/106 RPM Range: 2500-6600 To me that seems really huge for a street driven car. Would this cam still be drivable with descent street manners? I would like to...

Thanks for the heads up guys, I need all the info I can get. I'd actually prefer to stay with a hydraulic lift camshaft for ease of use and was hoping for a few people to recommend different cams that are newer age and comparable in RPM range and power. The Lunati VooDoo cams look like they...

Hello all I currently have a .484" lift Mopar 'PurpleShaft' (old version, but new cam) for my 406 BB. I have been wanting to maybe go a tad larger without losing low end power and hopefully gain some more midrange top end. I guess I want as much mid range/top end I can get without losing low...

Just thought I'd toss up a new updated picture of the MSD digital HEI system all ready to go.

I also bought everything seperately from different vendors. One could save a couple dollars if everything was purchased at one time through a single vendor. I am not saying this set-up is the best, because it is not. For less than $275.00 shipped, it is a great alternative if you need a...

The point of the HEI set-up is to get rid of that extra mess. Keep in mind $96.00 of the above price was for the MSD ignition wires, and $40.00 was an unessesary MSD coil cover. With that in mind, I have about $275.00 into the distributor/ignition system. Even the cheaper analog MSD 6AL box...

I had $130.00 left in my ignition system budget and all I need is an ignition wire set (~95.00) so I splurged and picked up this red MSD 'Extreme Output' coil cover (PN: 84021) to match my new red distributor cap. It looks the same as their original MSD 'Extreme Output' coil cover (PN: 84022)...

As already stated because of the fact that it really cleans up the wiring on the inside of the engine bay. It is a simple one wire hook-up. Also as already stated with the performance upgrades (MSD digital module w/ adjustable RPM limiter, high performance coil) it can handle up to 9,000 RPMs...

Well I got my replacement distributor cap and wire harness a couple days ago. I got it all installed earlier today along with the MSD digital module. Can't wait to fire this engine up! The red cap looks much better in my opinion. Although the set-up is not subtle anymore.

Overdrive transmision...

This should be most of the more common stock mounting coils. You can go to an external coil as well, however then you lose the point of HEI which is to have everything self contained in one unit for a clean installation. Feel free to post any other findings, just trying to keep a descent...

Petronix makes an under cap 50,000 volt performance HEI coil as well. It has .50 ohms resistance. Moroso ProCoil under cap performance HEI coil Proform also makes an under cap performance HEI coil

Mallory has two versions of a coil for the HEI set-up. The street version is good for up to 5,500 RPMs. The street/strip version works best from 4,000 to 7,000 RPMs It is a large round coil similar to the Accel 'Super Coil'.

Should that low resistance carbon button be used with any aftermarket performance coil or is it just recommended with the Crane coil?