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I'm meaning stock type mechanical fuel pumps in particular.

I've heard of problems with fuel pump leaking because of the diaphram being damaged, more so with E15 than E10. I know that the web is chock full of rumors that are just that - rumors ... but has anybody actually had any problems in this regard? Here's an interesting video by Pat Goss...

There is some room for error, but the original shop manual does state .008.

Thanks. I did check the reluctor and in fact I gaped it to .008 on every single node. I can't detect anything wrong. I have another new NAPA reluctor I can try and if I need to I will. As I mentioned though, the car runs better at speed than at idle and perhaps more importantly, it runs...

Then I apologize to you sir. I gave it serious thought before starting the new topic, and I know Xposting is a no-no; but I hoped that this heading would draw more comments, and adding the links to each one would not make it too irritating. Next time I won't do it ... if there is a next time...

Thank you, but wouldn't that make for a consistantly poor running car? ... whereas this one is pretty much okay one minute and very not okay the next.

Hi, Because the title of this is no longer meaningful, I have created a new topic - http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970470651#post1970470651 - that, if anyone can offer further help with, perhaps is more to the current point. Thank you.

Hi, I'd rather have changed the title of my other post. Instead I am starting a new post and linking it to this post regarding the broader issue with my ignition system:http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=278924 Here is the problem though ... So far I have removed the...

I did exactly that, yes. To my knowledge the distributor was never apart before; but I can't be 100% certain nobody ever tried to gap it with a non-metallic gauge ... but I doubt it. What gets me is that it runs fairly okay one minute and then starts rocking and rolling and just won't idle...

Here is the picture ...

I sketched up something quick - hope it makes sense. I will check the connections. I guess you specifically mean the double male to female out of the distributor?

Well I wonder if I can ask for a little more help. So far I have removed the distributor, replaced the pickup coil with a new unit from NAPA, replaced the reluctor with the pin in the same place, replaced the distributor in the car. I start the car - starts right up. But it does not run any...

I did hear of that information, yes, thank you. But the reluctor can only go in one way unless you put it in upside down and it should not make any difference which slot the pin goes in ... if it's loose you'll know it and just use the other slot so it's tight. I did, however, take note of it...

It's easy to do once you know how, right? :o( ... thanks for the help. BTW, I got it all apart and found that the pickup coil is wrong ... the black part that "meets" the reluctor is about 2 hundreds of an inch fatter from front to back than the outgoing part and cannot be adjusted back far...

Oh Okay thanks. I was using the shop manual and it was not very clear.

Really? ... what is the clip there for then?

Replacing distributor coil on electronic distr, looks like it should b easy, but I need to get the snap ring out from under the felt in the distr drive hollow to get the reluctor off. Tried several tools and can't get it off. Advise ? Also if it ends up I decide to get a new distributor, can you...

Thanks to all. I just located this article that might be of interest to others: http://www.reuters.com/finance/stocks/companyProfile?symbol=SMP ... Regarding Standard Motor Parts.

http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&biw=800&bih=417&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=small+block+mopar+firing+order&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai= Same as the SBC.

If I had to make a guess, and it is only a guess, I'd say you are way way way off timing. You can't even begin to tune the engine if you not on the idle circuit on the carb - indicated by the fact that no matter how you tune the carb it does nothing ... if I understand you right. At this...

Thanks! I just read the section on Electronic ignitions in the old "Direct Connection" Engine manual last evening. It makes a point about making sure that the ECU, coil and ballast all match up. The stock box works with the stock coil and BR - obviously, right? ;) ... then it goes on to...

Thanks! Had never heard of them so far as I can recall. does anyone know if the MP chrome box is good or is it also suspect like the Orange?

Another local "chain" offers BWD and Cardone brands, the former for parts like the reluctor and distributor coil. A review was not particularly favorable. Thanks to all who offered their opinions thus far.

Good up to what RPM? Do you know?

Thanks, but what does FBO mean? The (O)range box?

Bump - was hoping to get the parts soon. No more weigh ins?

Really!? But the Orange box is considered performance and good for 6000 rpm. Oddly though, it's my orange box that just went and I replaced it with a backup. My electronic ignition test unit (the blue diagnostics unit if you happen to know what I mean) tells me that the backup unit is good...

I am looking to purchase some ignition parts for my Duster - electronic ig. I notice that NAPA carries mostly Echlin. My local Parts Authority carries Blue Streak and Intermotor for coils and STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS for the reluctor and pick up coil. What's the general consensus on...

Additionally, you can not properly tune a carb until you have it at proper idle speed. I would seriously consider getting a timing light with built in rpm readout. It will make you job way easier. Whatever your timing is at idle, check your total timing. You might - as suggested - need to...

Robb, I'm certainly not an expert tuner, but would like to add my 2cents worth. Any additional recommendations on timing? >>>Yes: 1. If you knew your entire engine was stock I'd suggest timing it to factory specs; 2. Since it's now, time it by total, not initial; with the vac advance...