Ignition problems with pick up circuit

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dartley

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Hi,

I'd rather have changed the title of my other post. Instead I am starting a new post and linking it to this post regarding the broader issue with my ignition system:http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=278924

Here is the problem though ...

So far I have removed the distributor, replaced the pickup coil with a new unit, replaced the original reluctor with the brass keeper pin in the same place it was, gaped it with a non-metallic feeler to .008, and replaced the distributor in the car (noting it's placement when I took it out).

Then the car started right up, but it did not run any better than it did before replacing the pick up coil(more on that below). Since I have one of those 1970s blue electronic ignition diagnostic tools used for testing these electronic ignitions, I connected it by attaching it between the control unit and control unit wiring; and it continues to indicate that the pick up circuit is failing. On the back of the tool it tells me that when the light for the pick up is on - which it is - that means either the pickup circuit or wiring is faulty. Since it apparently is not the pick up coil, then I suppose that leaves the wiring; and I'm not real good with wiring problems.

***Now, about how the car is running ... This past winter I started the car, and it eventually started after not being run for a few months, but it took some doing, and boy did it run badly - would not idle, and when I brought up the RPM, I thought it would break an engine mount. So I shut it of and left it until last week, when it started much easier and started in fact to run well - idled okay - and so I took it for a spin.
It ran pretty well, though it was off a little bit in power. And then all of a sudden it wouldn't idle at all; so I drove straight home. It was now running very rough, the diagnostic unit indicated the pickup circuit fault. Now, a week later and after replacing the pick up coil, it seems to run about like it did before I took it for a spin, and as I said, it runs a bit rough and the diagnostic tool is still indicating pick up circuit problems.

One other thing ... for years this car has, on occasion, emitted a chirping sound (exactly that) at idle and when returning to idle (I don't drive it much so that's really not a lot of mileage). A couple of mechanics had a look at it and nobody thought much of it. Well that chirping is now much worse and I feel sure that it's because of this ignition problem setting it way way out of time and it must be detonating badly. Any thoughts? Thanks again.
 
I'd be checking the compression if it were my car, because "chirping" can be caused by a headgasket compression leak.
The way you described your idle makes me think you have a nasty miss. (motor mount comment)
Also could be caused by a headgasket.
 
Thank you, but wouldn't that make for a consistantly poor running car? ... whereas this one is pretty much okay one minute and very not okay the next.
 
In my opinion, starting a new thread was ill advised. It does not allow us to easily follow WT 'ell is it that you are doing

Timing does not cause "chirp." But if you must, CHANGE the timing and see if the chirp goes away

Are you SURE you got the reluctor installed correctly? The CW arrow (for small block) MUST be adjacent to the pin

BUT it might be possible --in this Chieseo world-- for a reluctor to be made incorrectly. Carefully lay your old reluctor over the new, close enough that you can see the relationship of the keyway and the reluctor tips and see if they line up exactly

(You might have an issue with "rotor phasing" Google it)

You replaced the PICKUP COIL? Is that correct?

IT MIGHT also be possible for the electrical connector to be REVERSED on the pickup coil. To repeat, the only way to check this is to check rotor phasing..................:

https://www.google.com/search?num=3...7.7.0....0...1c.1.46.hp..6.7.1098.2jlZQWmmG6w
 
Then I apologize to you sir. I gave it serious thought before starting the new topic, and I know Xposting is a no-no; but I hoped that this heading would draw more comments, and adding the links to each one would not make it too irritating. Next time I won't do it ... if there is a next time. Thank you.

I am using the the original reluctor, and yes I am certain I installed it exactly as it came out.

yes, I replaced the pick up coil with a new NAPA part and I checked it against the original - it's a match.

As to the wiring being crossed - I'd never know, but the car runs the same as before I replaced the pick up coil.

As to phasing - one source states: "you need to turn just the cap or "bowl" like on a msd pro cap. don't turn the whole distributor, or timing will change. not all distibutors can be phased, as the cap can't be rotated independently."

On the Mopar distributors you can't do this. If it's off phase then it was when I bought it, new, as a 1992 Commando Crate 360/300.
 
Mad Dart said:
Your gap is too tight if you are correct on the Pickup. You say it is .008,

It should be .080 range.
Click to expand...

Sorry MD .008 is correct. However, this brings up a good point........check that the shaft is not bent or other damage, or worn shaft bushings is not causing strike damage. Examine the ends of the reluctor tips

Also when setting gap, the vacuum advance can and does cause this to change as the breaker plate moves on it's pivot
 
Thanks. I did check the reluctor and in fact I gaped it to .008 on every single node. I can't detect anything wrong. I have another new NAPA reluctor I can try and if I need to I will.

As I mentioned though, the car runs better at speed than at idle and perhaps more importantly, it runs inconsistantly.
 
67Dart273 said:
Sorry MD .008 is correct. However, this brings up a good point........check that the shaft is not bent or other damage, or worn shaft bushings is not causing strike damage. Examine the ends of the reluctor tips

Also when setting gap, the vacuum advance can and does cause this to change as the breaker plate moves on it's pivot
Click to expand...

Your talking Electronic ignition right? I have always set mine at .080 never had a problem what so ever. .008 is less than my valve lash.
 
There is some room for error, but the original shop manual does state .008.
 
Now, we DID have one member who swears..........that with no other changes.........the ECU was causing erratic triggering. I don't remember who, or what was done, but my mind "recalls" that he seemed pretty deliberate with his methods.
 
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