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I've had loose or unseated pins at the steering column connector. I use a small screw driver to push each one in from the back. I've also had bad grounds since the socket grounds through the tail light/turn signal housing.

Swap is all done. At idle I now get 14.3v and in gear with the lights on stereo up I get 13v-13.3v. Throttle is more snappy, feels like its got more power, and stereo hits harder. Best $140 upgrade I've done. All that's left is to reinstall my F6 loom.

Your opinion is duly noted but about 10 mins too late. My harness was in great shape but as I stated all fuseable links have been removed (they well be getting replaced) I've already bypassed the amp gauge, 6awg wire already ran and working on the interior ATM.

Basically from the diagam take away the red wire from the bulk head to the relay and add from the alt to the battery is how its been for the last few years but I think I'm going to completely bypass the bulk head on both red and black and back to the alt gauge like mad recommends using some 8ga...

Decided to go with a 90 amp 88-89 denso alt. Alternator is order, got some 6ga wire to replace the 10ga I was running, and still need to order a fuse or automotive breaker (not a big fan of fuseable links). Also not sure if I should reinstall the orginal red wire back to the bulk head and hook...

I pulled the cluster and the amp gauge is still hooked up correctly just not using it anymore.

When I pull the cluster gauges ill double check the wiring going to the amp gauge but the bulkhead connector looked a little melted and the owner of smiths auto electric said once I ran an up sized wire from the alt to the battery I could just remove the original power wire so I did.

I got 12v with the green field wire disconnected and that post of the alt grounded to the case with a jumper (other field wire still hooked up). No matter what I did be it on/off lights, brakes, in gear, or off idle it remained at 12v. In the voltage difference between the alt and battery...

Does it matter which way the field wires are hooked up coming from the VR? I seem to recall someone telling me they don't but want to be sure.

The ALT is a square back unit. So I ran a couple test under different conditions and here is what I got all warm. Battery ALT Running idle with lights off 13.6...

So the car is a 68 Valiant /6. When I got it every thing was stock and wiring harness was in good shape and not hacked up. All connection changes I've made as crimp, soldered, and shrink tubed. I've since done the HEI upgrade so all wires going to the ballast have been soldered together and are...

After running the pertronix kit on the /6 (and hated it) I built my own HEI for $25 with junk yard parts and loved it. I gave my buddy Joe a brand new chrome box electronic kit dizzy and all. Told him I didn't need it anymore and we swapped it on his duster in 20 mins (yarded off the pertronix...

Does anyone have pics of the evenswiring harnesses?

Thanks again 67dart273 for the helpful tips. I swapped relays and it worked so a new $12 relay and everything is back to working order. Now on to the headlight upgrade.

Thank you 67dart273 as always you have been extreamly insightful and have given me the info I needed to track down the problem (and not just throw parts at it).

Okay so heres whats going on with my 68 plymouth Valiant. When the left signal is on it stays solid so no intermittent signal. (last year I had to soder the front turn signal housing because it had a bad ground from the socket to the housing) Both front and rear light are bright so no burned out...

HEI :thumrigh: I know its a heated discussion but Ive done a few mopar ign swaps and saw a huge improvement over points but did my first HEI swap for $25 vs $200+ for the mopar kit and the difference was night and day. Plus good quality parts can be found at any parts store.

I had to do the same for my neighbors truck. Went back to a basic electronic ignition system from a 70s dart. If it has the "computer" behind the driver side headlight with a billion wires coming out it has what I was told a carburetor feedback system and wont work with an after market Carb...

Should have power in and power out of the amp gauge. I had one go bad on my 77 power wagon years ago. Took the two wires off, connected them together, and insulated the connection and then it worked fine. I added a volt gauge instead of replacing the amp gauge. I'm not recommending it just...

heres a pic of the one I built for $25 with junkyard parts.

Not to hi Jack but Dan your hei ignition idea was the best upgrade I've done on my car and cheap too.

Its nylon a firm of plastic in an assortment of sizes. Its braided but its split like the ribbed loom you have used in the past except it has a 25% overlap.

I wanted something different

Thanks for the info. I built that system as slant six Dan described on slantsix.org. I've kicked around the idea of using a gm tbi when I go v8 but haven't decided yet. What you don't see in this pic and was added after was the module wasn't grounded well so I spliced into the ground wire for...

I like the look of the f6 split braid loom when it comes to pulling one wire out I found placing one zip tie next to the wire really helps.

Next time im out junking ill have to look around .

Thx I tend to have a lot of free time at work in the weekend... don't tell my boss.

here is my scrap bin box similar to mopardude318s.

I've seen your setup Pauly. Only problem I have that is I just spent 50 hours fix rust and welding up holes in the engine compartment that I didn't want to mount anything to the inner fender. It is a really sweet setup though. I found an old aluminum motor starter box (industrial light switch)...

thank you mopardude318. thats the kind of creativity i was looking for and why would you go all strokerscamp on me?