Search results for query: *

My street legal red '65 Valiant Bracket Racer (273 CID) when I built it in Community College (1973). Same '65 Valiant today (black) after "upgraded" by the Renteria Brothers when I sold it to them 1980.

I wonder if mine is a warranty differential, never considered that before?

Don't know for sure what it had from the factory, but a previous owner installed an 8 3/4 open rear end (489 case) in my '65 Formula S automatic. (did you notice the big dent in the lower part of the center rear?).

In the above posted dealer info (very complete, thank you) I don't see at first glance an option for a factory passenger side outside mirror (and my vehicle has none). I thought somewhere in the past I read it was a dealer installed option. Anyone know for sure? The reason for this thread: Just...

Fender Tag Decode 1-1 left manual outside mirror 3-9 variable speed wipers w/washer AB-31 273 V8 4bbl C-2 Barracuda Formula S Package D-5 Automatic Transmission E-1 Air Conditioning w/Heater F-1 Power Brakes Q-1 AM Music Master Radio T-8 Tachometer V-3 Back-up Lights...

Filled 'er up at my favorite Pemex station and when the pump shut off, gasoline shot out and spilled onto the shoe of the female gas attendant (here in Mexico, employees are still hired to pump for the customers). It also spilled onto the ground and the quarter panel. Anticipating a problem, I...

OK thanks, I'll update the liters to 4.5L After "red engine paint" above I did note dual breaker points already. However, not sure if that changes the dwell angle of 28-33. Or for that matter, how would one use a dwell meter on a dual point distributor anyway? My gas mileage on the 1,000 mile...

With respect to my Formula S, a previous owner had installed an 8 3/4 differential with the "489" casting number. Obviously that later edition differential it now has was not manufactured yet in 1965.

Any inaccuracies? 1965 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S Information Sheet Engine: Commando 273ci 4.5L 4bbl V8/12-15 mpg Length: 15 feet 8 inches (188.2”) (477.5 CM) Width: 70.1 inches Height: 54.4 inches Wheelbase: 106 inches Tread front 55.9 inches Tread rear 55.6 inches Wheel turns lock-to-lock...

My spare plastic gasoline containers always seem to leak when adding fuel to our '65 ABodies. Today I decided to think ahead and tape the area off first. Wouldn't you know it, first time I added from the 5 gallon plastic can and not a drop spilled out from the spout area of the can or from the...

Found another photo on Facebook group page "Fremont Drag Strip"

It never did wheel stands (wheelies) when I drove it. The new owners must have installed a larger, more powerful engine. I always drove/raced it with the original 273 cubic inch V-8. Here it is again (at Fremont Raceway), before being re-painted black and after I had sold it. My best time with...

It was a stock four-door when I purchased it circa '73 for $125.00 When I sold it in 1980, it was my 273 bracket racer (see photo). New owners painted it black and performed some "updates". Read the youtube comment for more history.

A little faster now thanks to the new owners:

I used a McCleod clutch in my 273 bracket racer without any problems power shifting. Sent it back to the factory for a rebuild once and was "scolded" when they found a small balance weight having been welded to the pressure plate (which was added when the local Salinas shop I used balanced the...

Article: Vintage Road Test: 1965 Ford Mustang vs. Plymouth Barracuda

And note the two speakers sticking out of the dash.

Should I plead guilty to plagiarism?

I believe I recently read somewhere that the torque spec for that nut at the end of the extension housing on a '65 904 was 165 Ft-Lbs which seemed awful tight to me. I wonder if that is correct?

I would advise measuring old seal and double checking the below information to make sure your application is similar. I have read where '64 and '65 seals are different. This may give you a lead: '65 seal is Chrysler part № 2464 482. Long obsolete, but crosses to a National № 470045, which walks...

The '65 Formula S was completely stripped and sandblasted during restoration. Now, little by little, time to put it all back together. I can't decide whether to install the whiskers/gaskets/chrome now or wait until the driver/side windows and cranks and stuff inside the doors are dropped into...

Any tips/info before I attempt to install the rear window trim? I don't have access to the new foam/rubber seals (I have the old/original stuff only) Last photo (installed) not mine. Thank you.

Do the pair of notches on either side where the trunk weatherstrip installs have any significance when installing the seal? Thank you.

I always listen for the gurgling as it becomes almost full and try to shut off the pump before spillage.

Getting ready to finally put the final touches on the exterior of the '65 Formula S. I wonder what to use (if anything) on the back of the loose parts that attach to the exterior sheet metal. For example, the "PLYMOUTH" letters on the trunk, the pair of chrome strips on the top of the quarter...

I didn't look forward to relocating the flimsy staples nor did I like drilling more holes, but I knew I could avoid damage to the rubber and staples by adding a few more tiny holes in the hood. Just my personal preference at the moment.

No, but I purchased it years ago (time flies on these restoration projects) so I imagine it has been resolved by now.

The DMT '63-'65 seal I recently installed must have been fabricated on a Monday. Of the eight staples used to secure the seal to the hood, half of them were about an inch out of place which necessitated me having to drill four additional holes in the hood. The four outer staples (right and left)...

In the past I used those special washers that spread the load more evenly about the bolt hole. However, in that case I changed over to studs because the factory fasteners became a little too short for comfort (was on a solid lifter camshaft using rubber valve cover gaskets glued on to the covers).

Thanks (not in stock at the moment)