Search results for query: *

Mine is a 416 with XE274H and I really don't like it, it is tempermental and idles like crap. I have messed with the tune quite a bit and it is still a little "rough around the edges" if you will.

I did the right angle dry about 7 years ago and it has never leaked. I am upgrading to dual master and KH discs and I am using an aluminum MC form Dr. Diff. I am really happy with the one I got from hima and put on my '69 Cuda so that is what I am sticking with. On another note is is power...

I bought mine from http://www.restorationperformance.com/servlet/the-125459/1968-dsh-70-Mopar-273-fdsh-318,-Engine/Detail or direct from https://www.amkproducts.com/ However I wanted all new fasteners.. You can get the washers by themselves from R/T specialties as well as all over...

I used a thin putty knife and slowly cut through the "glue" underneath. Also the things are held on with black RTV sealer so when you put them back on just glob then area with a quarter sized drop and press the fins back on and tape then in place overnight. I did mine with VHT wrinkle paint...

Here is the processs that I have been using over the years and it works great, Borrowed from Totally Auto Inc, I know it is long but it works: Whether you've decided on factory-correct, over-restored or full-blown custom, these prep and paint tips will help. Heck, the engine doesn't know what...

I had the same problem with the miloden deep pan. I had to cut my K frame to clear it. There are a lot of better pans out there so I am told. But on the plus side it is not too big of a cut and it is not a stressed area.

I think a better question is do you have a stock solid lifter cam, I know that some of the 2brl 273s had them, if so you will need to change even more if you want a hydraulic changeover, or you can get the mild solid lifter cam from schneider cams. www.schneidercams.com

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/mopar/0667em_mopar_318_engine/index.html

The compression should be about 9.5:1 so it runs fine on pump gas. Basic Mopar electronic ignition too. I used the Scat forged crank with I beam rods and KB742 (think thats the #) pistons. Nothing too crazy because its primarily a street car. I wanted it to be dependable, drivable and still be...

Mine was built by SPEEDOMOTIVE, I know mine has diamond pistons, the heads were worked a little but could probably go a little further. I am trying to get it dynoed this week moybe next to see where it is at. - 4340 FORGED 4.000" STROKER CRANKSHAFT - FORGED 4340 6.123" H BEAM CONNECTING...

418 STROkER 10.2 comp, eddy heads, comp XE275XL, air gap with an edelbrock 750, TTI headers, right now I fighting with getting the timing/advance dialed in . It is definately a very angry engine with TONS of power and a very aggressive lope when I can get it to idle correctly.

You might want to see this then.. http://reviews.ebay.com/ebaymotors/J-amp-C-enterprises-racer114183_W0QQugidZ10000000003688822

I have seen those bottom gaskets on 360's.

Sorry just remembered the site...www.thefastman.com

There are several sites with these motors, mine is a 416 (340 with 4" crank, eagle rods, and diamond pistons) lots of people makes kits (some claim no clearancing is required). GS motorsports does some stuff for magum motors...and another if I remember I will post the site

They are all interchangable from small block to small block. If you have one then don't buy another one.

Thanks for the info, I am working on this tonight.

I have a Miloden deep oil pan (Jegs p/n 697-30935) on my 416 stroker and there seems to be a clearance problem between the fron passenger side of the pan and the k-member, anyone else have this pan? this issue? What is the best way to resolve this? grind the k-member, dent the pan? Oh by...

Yeah problem with pulleys lining up, there is about a 1/4" of difference from where the bottom pulley should be (too far out). I am having to switch everything over from a 1969 setup to a 1970 setup so I can use the passenger side water pump outlet for the newer style high flow water pump...

A lot of views but no replies...what is everybody using????

The answer to your dmaper question is "no"...however if SPEEDOMOTIVE uses them for their motors they can't be too bad, I bought a TCI RATTLER and now I can't get my pulleys to line up right, of course I am still working the issue.

I almost forgot, I have the PN# for the only gasket you need. The FEL-PRO number is 70522 (the future number is 14-5500 I got mine at Kragen.

I bought the throttle cable bracket list above: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-340-360-High-Rise-Throttle-Cable-Mount-Bracket_W0QQitemZ8067647239QQcategoryZ42604QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem And I am waiting for it to come in the mail. If you look at magnumhp, they sell the throttle cable...

I just put the angled oil adapter back on my 416 (stroked) 340 and I needed the gasket set to put it back on, the MOPAR PN# is P5249320, I got mine from MANCINI RACING, www.manciniracing.com. I have the parts illustration that says that you need gaskets: 10-26-27

Is anyone out there running a TCI RATTLER damper on there 340 (small block)?