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Satin black hood, fender tops, doors, around windows. Is this called the 'performance hood treatment' option? http://www.lhmopars.com/MOPAR_Ads/1971_Plymouth_Duster_ad.jpg How far down the fender on the engine side does the black go and was the black before the body paint?

First hand experience with this on a minibike restoration wheel. From Chrome to silver with clearcoat.

From searching, it appears that the correct flat black for a 1972 Duster hood is 'organisol' ddl9355 or PPG formula (DCC-9355) but what about the clear coat? This is a textured black, can it be cleared with a flat clear? Anyone cleared their flat black hoods?

So, how do I protect a flat decal if you can't clear over it? Frequent waxing?

So, if I have a glossy body color/clear; my only option to keep the flat strip flat is to apply it after the clear?

Would applying a clear coat over a flat black Duster stripe make the stripe glossy? How can I prevent this if so?

I've been told about a coating that goes over bare/stripped body metal with rust pits that seals the pits before priming. Anyone heard of this?

Apparently the big three had different flat blacks and Chrysler was the flattest. Is there a code or something I can go by to get the correct flat black for my Duster hood?

After stripping the paint, is it now the common practice to use epoxy primer instead of self etching primer? I've heard that you use epoxy on bare metal now so that you can work on the part after stripping.

No holes but many pits especially on roof (harder to see some since I used that rust to primer stuff to slow the process). The pits are what worry me, how do I get all the rust out of them, if I can't how do I seal the rust and keep it from spreading?

I’m looking for advice on how to remove the heavy rust from my Dodge’s body. I’m on a tight budget so I may not be able to afford expensive equipment to get it all out. If that’s that case, how do I seal the small rust pits before paint?

I like the color on your cars and am considering it for my Duster but would like to see an A-body in that shade... anyone?

Anyone have pictures of GB5 Mopar's? Extra points if you have black stripes/hood!

No experience. But we looked into and decided that the color selection was too small, the price is not that good (when you add everything up), and most importantly the we chose to use Urethane over Lacquer. New technology over old.

Judging by your comments, you probably don't have a lot of experience painting. IF that is the case, Yellow. Also, I've seen engine bays painted 'half' body color and the bottom half black. Actually, I saw a picture of one here (FABO) recently and it looked good. I think he used the slanted...

This will not work as well as a MIG but it is possible to do body work with. Not easy and not clean, if you can afford it get a MIG. I use nothing but a stick (arc) welder since that's all i can afford.

If you have a picture of your car online, I may be able to Photoshop it to just about any color you want depending on the picture/current color. ...if that'll help.

Just an FYI, most body parts are made by the same manuf., oversees. Goodmark is a big name, many Chinese parts.

Well, I'm going to chance it. Got the springs today for 25$...

Yup... I think I read about it on Moparts.com years ago.

heh... I always thought 'bloke' was an insult. :)

I heard that the stock springs could damage a fiberglass hood on an A-body? Is this true? If so, then what do you use for a bolt on hood? I think I’ve heard of using Daytona springs.

Phosphoric acid? The 'Marine Clean'? I don't know but it smells ALOT like 409... I have used POR15 multiple times and am very satisfied with the results.