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I have set of TTI headers in my duster, and they fit nice even with power steering. One tube on the driver side is removable to ease the installation. A regular starter fits, but it's much easier with a mini starter. ( get one for a Dakota pickup at your local auto parts store)

in stock form.......X heads

I run one on my street/strip 340 duster. I love it !.... dead accurate timming no matter what.

if your running a breather in each valve cover, ( which is what I do) and no PVC, connected, make sure you have the valve cover baffles installed , or make some.

1 1/4 inch socket I belive....

As much as I love Lunnatti cams , I'd think twice about using their roller lifters, as I'v heard of some issues with them, I know one member on here who I just saw at a car show sunday has them, in his car and he has low oil pressure at idle, and come to find out the lifters actually expose the...

yep, 340's can be little monsters when done right !

Thanks Cuda chick....I painted them.

here's my 340

No, T/A heads are "J" castings with 2.02 valves that are machined specially for offset rockers, to allow for port work in race applications.

those are arguably the best factory 340 head there was. They all came with 2.02 intake valves. 1.60 exhaust. They were only on the high compression 340 engines, and nothing else. In 71' the went to the "j" casting, which can also be found with the big 2.02 valves, and also the smaller 1.88...

it sounds like you have yourself a set of X heads. They have an X cast into to them near the spark plug holes. It means you have a set of early 340 heads. these came on the early 340s (68' to early 71') and then they went to the J casting.

500 is kinda high for a set of X heads that need to be redone....I have a set of X heads for sale that are machine shop fresh, maganafluxed, with all new guides, and harden'd seats, stock springs, no porting, for 700.00. Ican say you would likely have 350.00 to 400.00 in haveing them redone at a...

well I really can't say who makes the best one....but I have an old Direction Connection mechanical pump ( hi-po carter ) that I bought back in 1979 for my small block, and I'm still using it. ( I'v replaced the diaphram kit a few times) and it has 3/8 ports. It's always worked great.

I have used that cam several times in the past, in many of my old mopars, and there good cams for street use. That car properly tuned should have no problem idiling at 850 to 900 rpm. first get the timing right, and then adjust the carb.

I see you are using the cast aluminum mopar performance valve covers, and with some intake manifolds, the valve cover lip rest on the intake runners, and may need to be notched. If this is the case, the valve cover's are not sitting on the head properly, and may be causing your oil leak. Just a...

ok, so you have a good block for the foundation. I agree sense you need to purchase a crank, you might as well build a stroker motor. I personaly would spend the extra and go forged, not the cast junk that is out there. The automatic trans, is fine, maybe freshen it up with a TF-2 kit and a deep...

You are going to get 100 different opinions...LOL! But This is likely what I would do. Sense you don't sound like your building a car for the drag strip. and basicly just a cruise nite type car, I'd keep the rear gearing somewhere around 3:55 to 3:91. I'd stick with a hydrallic cam. Lunatti...

x2

Glad to hear you have it figured out ! I said all along you had somthing wrong with the heads....

ya, thats exactly what i did, I bought one, and it had a core charge, so I threw and old junk regular starter, back in the box, and returned it for the core.....they did't care if it was a mini starter or not. LOL!

X2, I bought one from alocal auto parts store, for a 95 Dakota for 46.00. It's been in my duster for 2 years now and never an issue.

my own quote from a couple days ago..." I still think there's somthing wrong with the heads..."

I would still like to know what kind of heads are on this motor, but the OP never gave an answer...?????

what heads are on this engine? I still think theres somthing wrong with the heads....he has the same symptoms as I did when the machine shop bored to deep for the harden'd valve seats,and ruined my heads. I'd be looking very closely at the heads, and removing some valves to take a look. I'm not...

I'v been thinking the same thing sense I'v seen all this business about the dowel pins being to long.....seems like there would be water squirtin out between the heads and block. It will be interesting to see what the verdict is here. just out of curiousity, what heads do you have on this motor?

did you by chance just have harden'd valve seats installed in your heads? It's possible they machined to deep into the head and in to the water jacket. if so, water will be pulled into the cylinder right around the seats......I had a machine shop ruin a set of heads on me, because they did this...

A member on here has some mopar performance 4 bolt 340 main caps for sale in the mechanical parts for sale section. Just thought I'd let you know in case you have not seen them posted.

yes, use the converter ( sense you already have it available to you) that was with the 360, as it should have weights for the externaly balanced cast crank 360.

ya a lot of these are not totally correct, as I stated, but I'm not sure what the original poster of the thread is looking to see under the hood. Almost every car there is could be picked apart, as theres usally a couple items most owner's do not get 100% correct.