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Thanks for the advice rumble :)

Very true... if only I could trust my foot :burnout:

I hear you, thanks for the opinions guys! Anyone else got any?

Is there any danger that with the initial and mechanical advance I have, that the vacuum advance could raise it too high? does the vacuum advance hurt performance at all?

Well right now it is a XE256H cam, weiand stealth manifold, edelbrock 600 cfm carb, msd pro billet ready to run distributor, blaster 2 coil and 2.25 in pipes off the manifolds. In april or may Im gonna put in a XE262H cam and eddy performer rpm heads.

So got the msd ignition in, car is running great, question is, is there a point to having the vacuum advance/is it bad to have it. Msd says it advances the timing up to 10* at 15 lbs. of vacuum. Currently, the timing is 12-13* initial, 22* mechanical and 34-35* total. Any opinions? As I...

Turns out I'm an utter **** haha In all my working my hands through areas to connect wires and get the coil mounted, I had pulled the wire out of the connector just enough that it would stay in place but not transfer power to the sensor.

Yeah I agree completely. Thats not actually how it looks now. Ended up taken out the old ignition module completely and all its wires. Now its just the blue power wire spliced with the brown coil + wire and I have the ground from the distributor on the fire wall where this woven metal thing is...

Nevermind, fixed it

So I just finished wiring my new msd ready to run distributor and blaster 2 coil in. I ended up bypassing the ballast resistor like MSD told me to. The car starts and runs fine, my only issue now is that the oil pressure light won't come on. Usually if you put the key into run it lights up to...

Ah, fair enough. My mistake then.

The two wires you have highlighted attach to different points. If you look closely, the left wire attaches to the tip of the triangle while the right wire attaches a bit below it.

I found a wiring diagram http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73DartA.jpg. So I am just gonna follow this when it comes to which wires to use and discard. It looks like the only useful wires on the ballast are the brown one (coil +) and the dk blue (power as far as I can see) I'll splice these...

Okay, I just tried to find out what wires to use, but cannot isolate a single one. On the left side of the ballast is the blue wire and green wire above it and the loop connecting them, but if the loop is cut, neither will make reading on the circuit tester with the brown wire. If I leave the...

Actually, by this diagram, are you saying there are only two wires that are getting spliced off of the ballast and the third (starting wire) is already attached to the coil + down the line?

Thanks for all you research and help 67dart! TrailBeast confirmed what I have to do for a '73 in terms of wires.

Wait, so am I right and just he is wrong or am I also wrong?

Okay sweet! thanks for the help! So in this case, the only wires on the coil should be this power wire (in a threeway splice with the run and start power wires) and the positive and negative wire from the distributor. (the original negative coil wire can be discarded) Last question then is...

Okay, getting closer to understanding haha So I traced one wire back to the positive side of the coil (brown wire). So what I need to do is find the run power wire and start power wire and then splice all three of these together. After I do this, I can remove the rest of the wires to the ballast...

yep, thats the distributor I'm using. I don't have a brown wire with a loop though. None of my wires are the same color. But I think I get it now, I need to attach the power wire to the positive coil wire and the rest are unused and can be removed along with the ignition ecu.

Okay, I think I got it now. So for this distributor and coil change, I only need to splice the wires on the ballast that connect to the positive side of the coil and the ignition. Can the other two wires just be left unhooked or should they stay connected to the ballast?

I'll be honest, I don't know much when it comes to the electrics side of cars. So since I am using a pro billet ready to run distributor, do I not really need the ecu to be part of the system? if thats true, I only need to splice to the two opposite wires on the ballast that don't connect...

The vacuum needs to be hooked up on the ported vac side of the carb. As for the timing, 318's generally like around 6-7* BTDC, but it depends on some factors like camshaft, manifold, compression and the like. A 650 is a fairly large carb for a 318 however (too much IMO, I would go more around...

I guess I'll start with 12* BTDC, 22* mechanical and it all in at 3000 (two light blue springs)

I hear you, thanks again man! haha

Okay cool, thanks for the help!

is another option just taking off both plugs and then feeding a metal connector to attach both plugs together? Sorry for the poor information. When I say top to bottom here is what I mean

With my setup is there not a chance of spark knock if I have it all in that early? or since 2500 is in the power band of the camshaft, it is getting me the most power?

Replacing my ignition with a blaster 2 coil and msd ready to run pro billet distributor in my 73 dart with electronic ignition. Directions say to bypass the ballast resistor. It is a four prong ballast with two wires and a loop from the top to bottom on the left side and two wires on the right...

anyone else have opinions on what rpm it should all been in at?