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If you decide to part it out, I'd be interested in the valve cover. Rockers and shaft too if they're the adjustable ones.

If it was me, I'd just fix the electric then drive it and enjoy it. How bad is the rust? Is it surface rust that got painted over?

I'm not going to pay that much either. What I really want is an old style factory cover with the pressed in ribs like the one in post #9. Paint it with black wrinkle coat and it will look great on the engine (either yellow or red, haven't decided).

"Dear Lord, please help me resist the urge to make poor financial decisions..."

Normally I agree with just getting the parts from the machinist, but in this case the guy I'm using said his supplier doesn't have them and he doesn't really have time to look for them so he's OK with me sourcing them if I can. He's also not really interested in doing a Slant 6 head so he's kind...

I'm getting ready to have a Slant 6 head done, and decided to take people's advice here and put in oversize valves. Figure if I'm going to do that it would be a good idea to have hardened exhaust seats put in. I'll have a machine shop do the work but thought it would be nice to have the parts to...

Well, I called Oregon Cam Grinding today and talked to them about a cam. They recommended either their 2016 or 819 grind. I decided on the 819. Not super aggressive, but I'm not building an "all out" engine so hopefully it will work well for what I'm doing. I also ordered a matching set of...

I think the post you're referring to said 102 ICL (intake center line). ICL is different than LSA (lobe separation angle) I think. I agree with your premise (tighter LSA is better for under-valved engines), but is there a company that would even grind a /6 cam on a 102 LSA (and be able to get it...

My wife has me busy with honey do's today, I'll give them a call tomorrow.

It's gonna be a stock block and stock type pistons, I'll probably have the head milled 0.100 so I'm guessing the CR will be about 9:1 or just a bit lower. Don't have the engine apart yet to measure anything.

Looking for a cam for my Slant Six build. This one from Hughes looks like it matches my car/engine combo (64 Valiant wagon, 3.23 gears, 225, stock pistons, mildly ported heads with stock size valves, stock exhaust manifold with outlet ported to 2-1/2", TTI 2-1/2" exhaust system, Weber 38/38 DGES...

How good is the quality on the Chinese copy of the Holley?

The manifold says it takes the Holley, but I have a friend with a metal shop so it would be easy to get an adapter made for the Weber.

Well, title pretty much lays it out. Intake manifold is going to be the short runner (30mm) Aussie Speed 2-bbl. If I run the Holley it will be the 350 cfm version. Don't know much about Webers but I keep reading good things about them. Between the 2, which would you run?

Supposedly the KB268 pistons work, and they have pin lock grooves. Only problem is they're sold in sets of 4 so you need to buy 2 sets to get 6 pistons, and they're about $285/set. Campbell Enterprises sells a set of Wiseco pistons with rings for about $500, but they're flat tops so you end up...

Depending on how the supply of used engines is where you live, it might be easier and cheaper to find a core engine with a steel crank. Guess it depends on whether or not Molnar is willing to do a set of rods for you and what they'd charge for the extra work.

I'm glad I got my Offy cover when they were "only" around $300. Now they're listed on Summit Racing at a little over 6.

Depends on if someone wants it when you're trying to sell it. I paid $200 last year for a 225 and truck (ie granny gear) 4 speed last year and think it was a fair price.