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It's all in the paint. :)

Uh, his broke off at the block. What extraction grip is there that doesn't expand the tube while biting into it?

No, that's not where this goes. It's locallized hot areas, particularly exhaust valve area or heads over siamesed cylinders, and also might have castings and restrictions the water would sooner not go around. The engine won't always over heat since there's enough cooler areas to keep things...

Anytime you run the engine: around the block, around the country, in a test lab, or your shop; there needs to be some kind of coolant flow control whether a stat, or an orifice plate to make sure flow gets to ALL parts of the block and head and not short circuit back to the pump.

The thermostat sets the floor of the cooling system, not the ceiling which is your problem. I would try another, not remove it. There can be more harm than good with no thermostat to balance flow through the block. Check the radiator fins. Clean them out with compressed air. Check the...

Drill rod will work better than a screw driver, BTDT. I'll shut up now too :) Waiting for pictures.

No, I am not saying fix the crack. All the epoxy will do is act as a sleeve when it's hardened; to help hold the tube. The release agent can come with the epoxy in a kit. If it's pretty thick in the block's wall where it goes through, it could be better to bust it off. Remove the remaining...

Those are not bad numbers. Unless I see smoke of any kind, hear knocking or noises of any kind; I'd run it like it is. Recheck those pressures warm and dry, then wet. Check oil pressures cold and hot, check the cooling system. If it all looks good, why spend the bucks? They don't come broke...

The tube is "pressed", or a friction fit, in the block. All the methods chosen would've expanded it more, and increasing the difficulty. Acquire some drill rod just a smidgeon smaller than the tube's OD. From the top side, drive the remnant piece out. Flush the bore out with brake cleaner...

Beats me, it's the way it came. The postman came today with the newly ordered Lokar components. I will post the new set-up once I move my work area from under the house to the shop :) .

Thank you 66fs, I will be looking.

My vote is for an air/vacuum leak

I'm at a toss up between doing a full Lokar throttle/kickdown lash-up or as the post referring to Johnny Dart's image. What years/model am I looking at to imitate Johnny Dart's, assuming it correctly applies to the 1965 273/904 ? I have the 3 piece rod and bell crank. I have also found there...

For starters factory gauges are not all that accurate, and only offer a range of what's acceptable. If the needle is near center "in the band", it's okay. After market gauges aren't much better, but at least have numbers that can be within a few degrees of an accurate or test gauge. My...

Having driven manuals for most of my life, automatic linkages seemed self explanatory, just never really set them up. One thing puzzles me is some of the setups I've seen don't seem to have a return spring on the slotted upper link. I would want a guarrantee that the linkages return home with...

So the slotted kickdown is safer? That is, in the event the kickdown linkage gets hung up for whatever reason; the throttle is "free" to return to idle position?

Thank you all for the great replies. I have the adaptor on order. I am searching for the slotted upper kickdown link. The FSM does show, in addition to being year specific, quite a variation according to model and engine. The Coronets and I6 engines do show the slotted link. ONLY the Dart with...

Here is a picture of the present setup:

I have a 1965 Dart GT with a 273 and 904 automatic. The former owner put an Edelbrock 1406 and Edelbrock manifold on it. I have come to find the kickdown linkage was way out of adjustment, and the carb never opened up to WOT. I think for a 3 speed trans I've only noticed it shifts only once. I...