It is very important. I was just hoping to avoid this as I am not set up here to disassemble the engine. Would breaking the piece off as you describe not eliminate the need to drill the hole?
Well, it's cracked. How bad is it?
- Thread starter demon322
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Yeah, probably so, but you will still need to file the edges smooth....especially towards the top of the crack, which is the end that's tough to get to.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That crack isn't going to travel any (especially into the thicker block metal) since there is no stress on it, but a loose section of the metal around it could come loose later just from heat cycle.
I also have to disagree on the need to smooth anything, but just get any possible loose bits off.
DARTH V8R
It's a TRAP!
Seems like you want the easy way out. Break it off, you risk it cracking more, or the metal there might be porous and you break off
a bigger chunk. Anyways, your engine, your money. Do what you want.
a bigger chunk. Anyways, your engine, your money. Do what you want.
That's true, no doubt. But like you, I saw he was wanting the easy way........so I gave it to him. LOL
I am sorry if I come across as simply looking for an easy fix. That is not the case at all. Frankly I do not have the knowledge or skill to be doing internal engine work. So if this can be remidied without tearing into the engine I will choose that route not because it's easy, but because I can afford to take it to the machine shop right now.
I just spent a large chunk (read: almost all) of my car fund savings on my dream motor that was supposed to be running and everything in working order. In beginning to swap the parts over from my old engine and get it ready to install in my car I ran into this issue (which I am aware is 100% my fault.) So, harming the engine further is the last thing I want to do. Again, sorry if I gave the wrong impression. Was just trying to find a repair method that I felt comfortable doing but would be safe as well as cost effective. Carry on.
I just spent a large chunk (read: almost all) of my car fund savings on my dream motor that was supposed to be running and everything in working order. In beginning to swap the parts over from my old engine and get it ready to install in my car I ran into this issue (which I am aware is 100% my fault.) So, harming the engine further is the last thing I want to do. Again, sorry if I gave the wrong impression. Was just trying to find a repair method that I felt comfortable doing but would be safe as well as cost effective. Carry on.
I wish we were closer. You could bring it over here and I would fix it up in an hour or two.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Mountain out of a mole hill. 
I would appreciate that if it were possible. As it stands I do appreciate the advice and the attempts to help me out. I learn something new every time I come on here. As to one of your earlier questions about the top side. I took a pic. It doesn't appear to be damaged here at all. All I see is a bunch of crusty old paint and what's left of a dipstick tube.
This makes me feel a bit better.
Mountain out of a mole hill.
Not a mole hill to me! But I get your point (I think. Ha.)
You need to get the rest of that tube out so you can see how far up that crack comes.
Mountain out of a mole hill.
Some peoples' molehills are other peoples' mountains.
greg r
Well-Known Member
No, I am not saying fix the crack. All the epoxy will do is act as a sleeve when it's hardened; to help hold the tube. The release agent can come with the epoxy in a kit. If it's pretty thick in the block's wall where it goes through, it could be better to bust it off. Remove the remaining tube as suggested; then see how loose or tight the replacement tube is.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That's true.
I'll sit down and shut up now. LOL
Agree with this and with Greg. That tube has to come out. While I think I can see the end of the crack and it seems to be only on the underside I won't know for sure until the tube is out. Not to mention it has to happen before the new tube can be installed.
From the ideas I haven't tried yet pile I will try the pushrod from the bottom and maybe the dremel to remove the "chuck" which I'm still not clear on. That hole is pretty smooth but I still think I see what could be the end of the tube about halfway down that hole. It seems tube removal should come first before a final decision about the crack can be made.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Better off with a flat screwdriver with good sharp edges right up against the leftover tube section edges and tap that piece up and out, because a pushrod is rounded on the end and may just jamb in the old tube spreading the block metal even more.
And yes, that probably is the end of the old one you see, because those holes are not stepped.
Oops, I said I'd shut up.
And yes, that probably is the end of the old one you see, because those holes are not stepped.
Oops, I said I'd shut up.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Not at all, also notice how much remaining block metal there is above the cracked spot to still support the tube.
Once that remaining section of tube is out of there you'll see.
Rob tells me to shut up sometimes, so I beat him to it this time.
I don't really shut up though.
Ha. I see.
Thanks to everyone for the help. I've called it a night but will try the screwdriver method to hopefully get the rest of the tube out. The replacement from Mancini should be here by the weekend.
Thanks to everyone for the help. I've called it a night but will try the screwdriver method to hopefully get the rest of the tube out. The replacement from Mancini should be here by the weekend.
Take your time and you will get the results you want. I would want to relieve the tension the dip stick tube has on the inner hole of the block. One of the pictures shows what is left of old dip stick tube outside of the block, start here using a SMALL chisel or screw driver. Chisel what is left of the dip stick in towards the center of the tube hole, if you take your time you may have enough metal to fully close the tube shut. Using a metal rod small diameter lightly hammer up ward toward what you have mushroom earlier. This works. Also I have used an hacksaw blade to cut the tube to relieve the tension. How, break the blade long ways it will "snap in half" take the blade clamp it in the vise and hammer the blade and "snap" you now have a cutting tool about 3" long and 1/8 wide with teeth, this will allow you to hack saw the tube out of the block. Relieve the tension! As far as the crack nothing to pull your hair out, take needle nose pliers or duck bill pliers grasp the skinny side of the crack give it a wiggle as much or a little YOU feel OK with. If it wiggles, break it off, solid just leave it alone. Hope this helps
Opinions, everybody's got one. Mine, I would grab the broken wall section with needle nose vise grips and break it away. Then replace the broken tube and be done. The cast iron there is soooo oil saturated that no epoxy type substance will bond well.
The cast wall surrounding the tube never really needed to be more than 1/2 inch long. Consider the wall at trans tube entrance or any other example you can find. Even Briggs and Stratton LOL. The main difference is the interference fit design and lack of a tether/anchor like found on the tube of those examples. Basic engineering is "do it one way or the other".
If you can buy a tube for this application that includes external anchor, great. If not fab something. So long as the tube doesn't move enough over time to loosen in the shorter "fit" area, no problem.
The cast wall surrounding the tube never really needed to be more than 1/2 inch long. Consider the wall at trans tube entrance or any other example you can find. Even Briggs and Stratton LOL. The main difference is the interference fit design and lack of a tether/anchor like found on the tube of those examples. Basic engineering is "do it one way or the other".
If you can buy a tube for this application that includes external anchor, great. If not fab something. So long as the tube doesn't move enough over time to loosen in the shorter "fit" area, no problem.
greg r
Well-Known Member
Drill rod will work better than a screw driver, BTDT. I'll shut up now too
Waiting for pictures.
Waiting for pictures.
Old tube is out. New tube slides in great but does wiggle around a bit. Someone mentioned epoxy with a releasing agent?
I do think it needs something in the hole with the tube. It is easily removed. So is epoxy the consensus here?
I do think it needs something in the hole with the tube. It is easily removed. So is epoxy the consensus here?
You should fab a bracket on the tube to hold it in place if it does not have one. I would not use an epoxy there. I think you will have better luck with some RTV. It will not break if the tube moves around a little. JMO. I am sure others will disagree.
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