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joemoy29, please note that no flames were fired in your direction. New guys with questions are the heart and soul of this site. A lot of good people here who will help with whatever you need to know, just ask. It's how we roll. Welcome, enjoy the site, and pitch in with tips and advice when it's...

You're guessing wrong. Swap away. You may need to also swap the output shaft, but hey, you have one of those too...

If you have the 15320 Lakewood bellhousing, you will need an FP 848 Clutch fork pivot, according to Brewer's website. $29.95 + shipping. www.brewersperformance.com Hope this helps...

After further review there are clutch discs available in either spline count that will fit under your present pressure plate. 10 splines for Ferd or 26 splines for Blowtie. Pick your poison...

Your 4 speed has a 23 spline input shaft. For a 5 speed conversion don't let the 10 or 26 confuse you. Just pick the one that has an available clutch disc with the same diameter as the one you have now (should be 10").

It will. All you need is the small register flexplate and converter from a '67 or older slant...

The OD 4 speeds used a 5.125" bearing retainer. The dual pattern bell housings were made to accept a 4.35" bearing retainer. Measure yours to make sure. If yours won't work there are plenty of small block OD bell housings out there. You will just have to find one. Look for '76 up 318 OD from...

I used a '70 Charger R/T with a U code 440.

I checked on Advance's web site and the only clutch kit listed was a Hays part #31-212 and the price was $299.99. They're real proud of it.

Used nylock nuts on mine with no problems.

Don't mean to pee in your corn flakes, but it's a lot easier to change a pressure plate than it is to remove the over center spring. Easiest way I've ever heard of doing it is to depress the clutch pedal and hold it down. Then fill the gaps in the spring with washers. If you can get enough of...

Converting over to floor shift? Get ready to find a floor shift hump and cut some holes in the floor. The shift rods go over the cross member and most of their length is inside the car along the floor. Hopefully someone will chime in with pics.

Most 833s used a 4.35" input bearing retainer, same as the 3 speed. All you really need is a non OD tranny, shifter, and front yoke on the driveshaft.

I couldn't break one with a tunnel rammed Hemi. Doubt a 340 will come close to hurting one.

Looks like a 360 truck flywheel to me.

The only difference that I am aware of between the cases is the material they are made of and the size of the bearing retainer. There were cast iron case OD units made. I have one.

That's an O/D truck/van transmission. Aluminum case, front shift lever upside down, 1983 build date. To use it in an A body you will need to fabricate a shifter mount to put the stick in the right place, or swap an output shaft/tailhousing from an A or F body transmission. You will also need a...

The repop '67 up humps are actually made for the '75-'76 models and has quite a large gap at the rear because of the bump in the floor for a catalytic converter. You will also need to replace the floor mounted gas pedal with a later model swinging type. The carpet doesn't fit very well on the...

Those are usually the shifter stops that prevent over travel of the shifter rods. Only used on 1st through 4th gears.

The first cast crank was the '71 360. That was also the first year of production for the 360. The next one was the '72 400 and that was also it's first year. In '73 this plague was foisted on the 318 and the 340. The 318 could still be internally balanced but the 340 needed a little external...

You will need an internally balanced 10 1/2" flywheel and a bellhousing to match. The clutch linkage and the starter are just fine.

Best one I've ever used was a Hurst Comp Plus.

Made a crate out of 2X6s, 2X4s, and 3/8" plywood and it went UPS Ground. Cut 3, 2X6 blocks an inch longer than the trans was high. Left one alone and drilled a 2 inch hole and 4, 1/2 inch holes to match the input bearing retainer pattern in the other. Bolted it to the bearing retainer using...

Hold the phone Maynard, did you leave out a comma and mean to say you wanted to ship a transmission too? If so, UPS can do it but it ain't cheap. Cost me $110 to get one here from CT. Decisions, decisions.

Don't mean any offense, but what's wrong with UPS? Had all that shipped here from Texas for less than 40 bucks. For that matter, had an 8 3/4" pumpkin shipped here from Spokane, WA for $76. Only glitch I've had with them was a package from CA that was delayed because the train it was on derailed.

A Hurst Competition Plus shifter and installation kit will have everything you need. The '71-'74 pistol grip will work with it quite well. Have that setup in a '66 Valiant 4 door and love it. Just make sure the installation kit is for an A body. You may have to go directly to Hurst to get what...

Gee, and all this time I thought Mopar Performance made 4 barrel Magnum intakes and electronic ignition kits so you could ditch all the computer crap and get your engine to run. Also thought since the 5.2 Magnum has the same bellhousing pattern and is internally balanced, that an LA flywheel and...

Put it in 3rd gear and see how many times the output shaft turns for each turn of the input shaft. Normal 4 speed will be around 1 1/4 turn on the output for 1 full turn on the input. An OD will be around 3/4 of a turn. Also most ODs used the one piece speedo drive/cable. Yours is set up for a...

Mine are just ordinary A body shift rods and it works fine. Just remember that the shift arm towards the front should be pointing down.

Got a pic? One or two shifter mount pads? Are the pads toward the front, middle, or rear of the tailshaft? How many splines on the input shaft? What's the diameter of the front bearing retainer? Iron case or aluminum? Is the output set up for a slip yoke or does it have a flange? Most of us can...