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Let me know if using the 10-40 quiets them down

Rockers are shaft mounted 1.6 PRW. The shop that did the block for me also ordered the rockers and told me to set the lifters at .50. Perhaps I should have done what Hughes recommended.

Yup, its gonna make a bit of a mess

Sounds like there are many different way to set them. Everyone seems to have a little different way of doing it. I think I am going to do it the way I posted on my opening thread.

I finally finished my engine build and I am happy with how it runs and over all performance. The only issue I have is the lifters get a little noisy once the engine warms up and the oil thins out. I have tried different types of oil, 10-39, but no difference. I have hughes roller lifters Hughes...

I got both fiber and tin gaskets, which ones are the best to use with aluminum heads and intake?

Just hope I got the length right, lol

Yup, that is what I ran into with the checker push rods. Maybe the 5/16 rods will have plenty of room. I set up the rockers so they re directly over the centre of the valve stem. There is about 0.20 clearance the rockers. They move very smooth and seem very stable. I think they will be ok

They are PRW https://www.prw-usa.com/product/3231811-sbm-pqx-platinum-series-steel-shaft-rocker-arm-system

I am using edlebrock heads, http://edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/cylinder-heads/chrysler/performer-rpm-sb.shtml and there in not much clearance between the push rods and the bottom of the holes the push rods go through in the heads. Is it a good idea to us a die grinder and take a little off the...

I have measured 5 exhaust & 5 intakes with about 2 threads showing, All are within 0.30 of each other. When I order from Smith Bros. should I use the average of all 10 measurements?

Well here I am asking for help yet again. I am measuring for push rods but I am not sure where the set screws on he rockers should be to get the correct length. Currently I have them set all the way in and the average measurement with is 6.75" or 171 mm. This is on a hrd roller lifters in a 340...

Thanks for he offer but I found one locally at a machine shop, I can't believe he had one

I need to change the gear on the oil pump shaft to a bronze gear. I bought the bronze gear from comp and a new shaft from summit with the original gear. I tried to take the gear off the shaft and put the bronze on the new shaft. I had to drill a hole through the pin that holds the gear on but I...

gonna use the timing set that edlebrock sells since cam, heads & intake are all edlebrock. Same price as the mopar set.

That is what I thought but wanted to make sure in case he knew something I didn't. I will enlighten this wizard :tool: of the parts counter.

The chain that was in it was a double roller, I planned on using the same type and ya, they love to spend your money

I was told by a guy at my local speed shop that because I upgraded to a hyd roller cam, I will need to use a different type of timing gear and chain. I have never heard of this before. Is this true? I was planning on using a new stock style chain and gears. Any thoughts?

Checked with Comp and they are saying all of their roller cams require the bronze gear. I have heard that they wear quicker than the stock gear. http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=420&Category_Code=LACAMRFHRXE

I just got the cam back from the machine shop. Had the cam re-ground, 0.035 taken off the base circle. Tried it in the engine with the roller lifters and no more problem with the oil grove peeking out of the bore. I had it done at Interior Cam in Salmon Arm BC, the cam looks really good. I was...

Thanks, that is the tread I was looking for. I do have the slinger and drip tab. I think I will find a drill press and drill a hole in one of the bolts.

I remember reading a thread about one of the 3 bolts that hold the cam thrust plate in place has a hole in it to lubricate the timing chain. I have 3 bolts but none of them has a hole in it. Do I need this bolt, and if not how does the timing chain get oil?

I want to thank all who chimed in on this thread. Cams are very confusing and I did learn lot. I will let you all know how the build turned out. Thanks FABO

Yes, a new cam with a different base circle is $450.00 plus freight and to have it re ground will cost $225 plus the cost to have it shipped which will be about $60.00. So total will be around $300 max (Canadian $)

I got the Hughes lifters to fix he problem and all bores are good except one. The oil ring on the lifter peeks out less than 030 and after measuring the cam the base circle is 060 bigger than the barrel so I should be able to take 040 off the base circle. That will give me a margin of error of...

If I had the cam re-ground 030, would that lower the lifter in the bore the same amount at max lift?

Its hard to get an exact measurement. I used a piece of 030 mig wire to try ad get some sort of idea and the gap is no bigger than the wire. I do not really understand what exactly gets ground on the cam. The base circle on the cam is the under side of the lobe and if so how does that lower the...

No, I never took any pics when I had the cam in the block. I afraid it would noisy if I used it the way it is. Is here any other hyd roller lifter that would work. Not sure how much of a difference it will make in HP if I go to a hyd flat tappet

If I was to go to solid roller lifters would I need to use a different and cam bearings?

I tried the Hughes hyd roller, one lifter peeks out on one lifter bore.