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Nope, it was brand new. Bought it at Autozone. I'm becoming increasingly frustrated with the quality of their parts and am almost ready to use them strictly for mechanical parts only. Their electrical stuff sucks. I also went through 2 rebuilt dizzys before giving up and ordering a Proform from...

I'm fixed!!!!!!! The other day I went to a salvage yard and picked up an actual GM module out of a distributor that was laying around. I installed it and started the car, idled it down to 800 RPM reset my timing and carb settings and took a drive. It starts faster than before, idles smooth and...

You'll always get some of that if your pump is weak. As the needle valves open, fuel is allowed into the carb draining the line. As soon as the valves close (because the carb bowls are now full) the filter will fill again. I had this problemn with the old stock pump because the diaphragm was...

The diagram Moparchuck67 shows is exactly the diagram and thread I used.

Sorry -- every time it dies............ I'm also using graphite wires. No copper.

The one thing weird that it does every time it does is run backward.

Switching the wires did nothing. I'm getting about 13.5 to 14 v to + side of the coil. I've even tried switching coil wires around. Took the module back to AutoZone and watched as he checked it about 8 times with no faults noted.

I'll try swapping wires.

Heat sinked with paste, grounded, 4 pin HEI, newly rebuilt motor (runs good with friends pertronix ignition)

My old TP70 ignition CPU seems to have finally given up. It was installed by the PO when the car had a /6. Since doing a V-8 conversion I've had nothing but trouble from the ignition system. I finally got a new Proform electronic distributor and wired up a GM HEI unit with a NO Ballast required...

LX405 -- it's an ignition module.

I spoke with the Echlin Tech rep the other day. He could find nothing on the TP70. Guess it's way obsolete and they don't seem to keep records of what they had back when. I got him to send me a wiring diagram for an LX405 which is the same as a TP85. I'd post the diagram here but can't seem to...

Just ordered a TP85 module to replace the TP70 that's obsolete. No ballast required according to the wiring diagram. This is an lx405 clone.

Yes, the coil is specifically for non ballast use ad is marked as such. I'm just trying to figure out the loss of power thing and thought it might have something to do with the coil but am starting to lean toward replacing the ECU. Think I'm going to swap out the coil first. I have some others...

The previious owner of my 65 Barracuda removed the ballast resistor and wired the start and run wires under the dash together. He installed a NAPA Echlin gold box ecu and retained the stock coil. This system seemed to work well for the /6 but not for the 273 I built and installed. I'm...

I don't know. All the printing is obliterated on the original coil. I have been using a new Ballast required coil but haven't run the car for very long to have a failure. Maybe I need to get a "No ballast reqwuired" coil??

I agree about the leak and also had dizzy problems. 2 new Cardone dizzys from Autozone, a used dizzy from a running 318, a used dizzy from a 340. I finally tried a new Pertronics setup my friend had and no problems at all. I've ordered a new Proform dizzy. Seems as if there are a lot of shitty...

Damn, I came in a little late on this one. I went through 2 Cardone dizzys from autozone and just ordered a Proform for $132.00. I'd have rathered had the Accel. That's a good deal.

YES -- it's a TP-70

Anyone know anything about these? I have one in my car wired WITHOUT a ballast resistor. Don't know if that's right or not. Was already installed when I acquired the car.

Floats are set to spec. I've played with the timing all over the place and now have initial set about 15 BTDC. It seemed to help start after it was warm a little better. Don't think fuel pressure is an issue as it runs at 3k and up just fine but I will try to find out.

A couple of years ago I swapped a Harley (I had 2) for a 65 Barracuda. It was a /6 with factory 4 speed. It had already been converted to an electronic ignition with a NAPA control unit and an unknown distributor. The ignition does not use a ballast resistor. It ran fairly well but the carb on...

I finishing up a 273 with stock manifolds but no left heat shield. Is it better to run straight plug wires or the right angle (90 degree) wire at the plug? I'm open to suggestions but don't think I'll be finding a heat shield I can afford any time soon. Thanks guys.

I'll bet you had a pin stuck in the switch. Try spraying a little contact cleaner in the switch followed by a quick shot of WD-40 or graphite.