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I'm running the edelbrock performer RPM cam.

I have the rt and it works quite well. Some will depend on the condition of your original movement as you are only replacing the pcb. Mine was jumpy and erratic, the RT one works so well now, I pull the Autometer one I had on the column.

probably used ones can be found. Post a picture of yours, I might have one.

Not to sound like a hillbilly here (no offense to the hillbillys on the site) but if I were looking for a limper for a while until I wanted to tear it all down, I think I'd just jump a wire with a couple of hose clamps to make the ground, then worry about it when I wanted to tackle a steering...

i did a post on how to do this a few weeks back, look for it under disty recurving. It goes through step by step on how to set up the disty. Cheers. Here it is, I found it! http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=64449&highlight=disty

Yes, too much timing can cause problems without pinging, but also you can detonate without hearing it. If it were me, I'd disconnect the vac advance and not run it for now, that would be way better than doing permanent damage to your engine. Also, buy a timing light, you can get a cheap...

Manifold works, but ported is better. This subject has come up and been argued many times. It would be very good to know what your total all in timing is mechanically first, then worry about the vac advance. Total of 34 is pretty safe. What is your inital and total at now? What carb are...

I have seen some aftermarket tabs. On mine when I bought it, they had a cover off a 68 or 68 340 which ever on had the marks on the passenger side of the cover. Anyway, I fixed it by putting a line at tdc on the cover with a thin black marker and used that, it can get you close. I also added...

RIght on, that is industry standard.

I agree, the blaster 2 is a great coil.

I ended up just doing the work on my own and have a pertronix ignitor II in it so I think I am all set. Thanks for the offer though.

Adam, Here's what I have so far as of my last set up tonight on springs. On the stock distributor I had here are the results. Mr. Gasket light springs only = all mech. advance in at 1000 rpm. Mr. Gasket light spring and short stock spring = all mech. advance in at 1500 rpm. Short stock...

Well, like I mentioned above, I'm not an expert on this but here's how I figured it. I set my initial timing where the cam liked it by setting for max vacuum at idle. As you advance you timing your idle will speed up so you will need to keep bringing your idle speed down so it stays at a...

I looked in the tech archives first and didn't see anything. It started out as me taking a bunch of pictures so I wouldn't forget anything or how it all went back together! It is a lot easier than I had originally thought to limit the total advance. I am still playing with spring rates to get...

Yes that is the chart from Mopar Enthusiast. I did find that a slot length of .375 gave me one degree less than posted though or two on the crank. I had the one light spring and one from a Mr. Gasket spring kit and all my advance was in at 1500 rpm. Tonight I will try it with the two stock...

Yes, absolutely. It can be done to any Mopar distributor. I don't have pictures to share on any others though. I bought a rebuilt unit for 37 dollars and redid it while the bone stock one was still in the car. It is not that hard to do to only limit the total advance, adjusting the spring rate...

Reverse your teardown to put it all back together. Make sure that the T bar moves freely and there is no binding in the slots at all. Dont forget the snap ring in the center holding the T bar to the disty shaft. I put some light lube on all rotating parts and called it good to go. Hope this...

To limit the total advance you need to shorten the travel of the slots on the T bar. Remember distributor advance is x2 to the total. So if I am setting my initial at 18 and I want 34 total that leaves me 8 degrees advance in the distributor, 8x2=16 +18=34. You will need to weld or solder the...

Next you will see the mechanical advance limiters, weights, and springs. There is a small retaining ring in the center of the round housing that holds the T bar that fits over the weights and springs. I found the easiest way to remove it is with needle nose pliers and grab one side and twist it...

Ok guys sorry this is late but I was trying to document some spring rates on the advance. The Mr. Gasket curve weights had all my advance in by 1000 rpm, not exactly what they advertised. Again this is for a small block points distributor. First off, pull your disty and get a clean workbench...

Yes, I recurved a stock single points distributor for a small block. Total cost is $4.99 and about an hour an a half or so of work. I'll post the pictures and chart tonight when I get home from work.

Just finishing up on recurving my distributor. If anyone is interested I can post some pictures of it.

I'm close, I'm in Hudson.

Who all is running their disty off of manifold vacuum instead of the timed spark port. Just curious. There are many pro's cons to both.

Yea, I learned it on my 70 engine that someone put a 69 cover on, so I couldn't time it. Caused a WTF from me but I guess they are more rare because I sold it on ebarf for 65 bucks.

Has anyone put a billet distributor in? There is not a marking for #1 cyl and the rotation is WAY off from where it was as far as the vac canister and plug wires are concerned? Anyone?

I received my Pertronix billet disty last night and will start setting and dialing in the advance and curve tonight. Any one have any pointers on this unit and hopefully some good success stories?

LOL yes you have! And very well I might add.

You're welcome. Many people don't realize all the options there are for bulbs. Keep in mind higher amps and cp will generate more heat. You can try a hot bulb but keep an eye on the socket holder for it. I found the 168's to be pretty decent compared to the stock, but you can always dim a bright...

Ah, here it is. http://cecindustries.com/user/_ProdMinInc_list.php?a=search&value=1&SearchOption=Contains&SearchField=BaseID&SearchFor=Wedge%20(T-3%201/4) Notice the 168's only draw .11 amps more and are 3cp instead of 2 I put those in and they work pretty well. There are quite a few options...