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It's not clear to me, - if its a 67, the tank is unique with a single transverse strap, may be hard to find. Good luck regardless.

Just so ya know, mopars 1970 Hustle Catalog recommended the first improvements be 3310/780 Holley, LD-340 manifold, Hooker under chassis headers. It was my understanding that the bigger intake valve was because, like a piece of wood, after combustion, the residue volume of air/fuel is far less...

Reading part of this should cover everything,. Cheers https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/initial-timing.527406/#post-1974072844

The original LD340 was supposed to be an aluminum (light weight) version of the stock steel manifold. The part#s on the manifolds and the Hooker under chassis headers made them NHRA acceptable, and like many, I bought mine from my Mopar dealer to maintain warranty . The LD 340, Hookers, and 3310...

I have used a length of chain shaken around, but the idea of strapping a tank with chain in it, across the mouth of a cement mixer is very appealing. If I had ever owned a cement mixer, I woulda tried that . Just saying . Cheers

AJ has vast knowledge, he's helped me get my head around some issues that gained us a few tenths. Long winded sure, but other "Oracles" here can put him to shame. I'm usually brief, I like to plant a seed/idea, those that know what I'm saying nod and smile, others think about it, and "get it"...

Mykin’s RN00170, Nitrile (BUNA-N) 70 durometer, is a general purpose copolymer of butadiene and acrylonitrile. This compound has a relatively high acrylo content, making it exceptionally resistant to petroleum base oils and hydrocarbon fuels over a temperature range of -40°F to +250°F

It also determines if the mixture screws work, or not .

Spitballing. Thinking evaporation. Maybe try a fluid less prone to evaporate, solvent/kerosene ? In order for siphoning, bleeds would have to be plugged imho.

Lol, I'm 73, owned a 4 bay service center in our Capitals city center.. We'd go thru 20 - 40 vehicles a day. Every conceivable make, - every conceivable problem. Over 40 yrs I've started and driven just about everything numerous times. That's the way I start any carbed vehicle, read the manual...

Carbs haven't been a production item for 40ish years, so some folks have prob never owned/driven a carbed car, or read the manual, and prob forgot what may have been passed down, so pls bear with me. A carb uses " venturi" vacuum, the flow of air being passed thru the carb to "suck" fuel into...

Oh boy !

Fuel injection and overdrive has totally "spoiled" the younger generation, and to a lesser degree, us ..

Put a header on it, most cost effective h/p going on nat aspirated engine. Get the exhaust out, before trying to cram more air in. Engine is airpump, you're trying to put a 4 inch inlet into a 2 inch pump, with a 2 inch outlet. Open the outlet. jmo

Once the motor cranks 2 revolutions, stop cranking. The mechanical pump has been cycled, the spring and diaphragm inside the mechanical pump is still sucking fuel by way of the diaphragm and spring, adding an electric pump to pump fuel already being sucked is not nec. By waiting a few seconds...

A little lube prevents that on any of the gaskets supplied .

I've been tapping the 3 tabs on the tank down before installing the sender, to apply more pressure on the ring and seal . Been doing it since 2000ish. 3 cars on the property now, at least a 1/2 dozen customers cars running around for years, no leaks, no drama .

Thought it was for a Holley 3 barrel to open.

The carb does not create vacuum to the fuel line. The fuel pump supplies pressurized fuel to the carb. The fuel in the bowl, feeds fuel to the accelerator pump by gravity, from the float bowl to the accelerator pump chamber. No sucky from fuel line .

Foam float gets soggy after a while and sinks. A brass one might be similar if left dormant for longer periods?

I think capping that tube would cause an "Inbalance", and could cause a problem, if I remeber my 50 yr old lessons on carbs . The only other vent may be inside the air cleaner, (low pressure) iirc. If you cap it, - poke a hole in it, jmo

Respectfully , you have the info nec to repair the carb in this thread. Saying..... look at this, look at that, mosta that stuff has absolutely no bearing on the " long cranking after hot and shut off ". You won't listen. You don't respond to direction, you just " look at this " crap . I respect...

Keep your original carb in case you need it for rebuild, pay the core charge if nec. till you get one that works . Good luck . https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/note-about-parts-store-rebuilt-carbs.549660/

More than a dozen years ago, my parts guy with a 318 asked me if I would set up a carb for him, he had just put on, and wouldn't work right. It was running terrible, pulled top, first off, the metering rods were mismatched, one was bent 90* and totally missed the jet. I replaced it with a pair I...

The fuel level is generally well below that top gasket, and shouldn't get fuel near it unless seriously rocked/sloshed around in the bowl. You observed that "round" thing on one of the carbs, That's a vent to open to air, not to seal gas in. If it was a foam float, they get soggy and brass...

The wet gasket on the float bowl and black spark plugs indicate the problem could simply be a sunk/heavy float, causing it to run rich, also explains why mixture screws have no authority. Find someone to repair the carb. Good luck .

Yeah, I can't get over the dropped cylinder .

Horsepower is just a number, - in most cases just a conversation piece. The car will likely drive wonderfully, the only time you may miss h/p is when wide open throttle or showing timeslips, - seriously. Make up BS horsepower, like most others. lol Just drive and enjoy it, - make changes at...

We used to send a newby to get a can of "used welding sparks" down to a supplier, he'd hear that, know it was a standing joke in our industry here, so he would say they were "outta stock" and was refered to a place that "had them", who refered him elsewhere, repeat repeat. Bit us in the ***, -...

It was a stock class running 62 Max Wedge 383/343 hp, lol - AFB's, lol . But I do prefer Holley's . . Moral - cover carbs with no air-cleaner .