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tx guys..looks promising!

Has anyone tried cleaning up a rusty fuse box and wiring using Evaporust. These are nearly always rusted badly. Wondering how it might affect the bakelite box and insulation?

Hi guys...what years are 2 speed wiper motors interchangeable. ....1968 through 1985?

I've seen a few tests were additives didn't really do much...My small cam 340 will detonate on 91 and always feels like it's being held back even when you can't hear it. On 93 octane it runs perfect and pulls hard.We're lucky, it's available here at a few stations. I have ridden in friends' cars...

OK..i didn't realize they were by-passing the bulkhead altogether. Still you have no idea what your current is?

not to hijack...but why in the world do guys remove the ammeter for a voltmeter?

Great info ...tx!

OK..i found a nice a nice used 67 harness.Guess i could buy it and compare each circuit and terminal to be sure. I had planned on completely rewiring my '68 which is intact but in very poor condition. Was hoping someone who has been through this could chime in..tx guys.

Can anyone tell me if a 1967 dart under dash wiring harness is the same as a 1968 or what minor differences there are...if any?

i bought some of the $5 boxes they were selling at Carlisle years ago and they said they were only good for 5000 rpm.As luck would have it my Mopar Orange box failed so i used a $5 one until i sourced a better piece.It performed fine until i replaced it! That car is gone now but my latest build...

It's been a while since i looked into this but isn't an A body Ammeter hard wired. Was the burning dash problem more on B and E bodies where the ammeter was circuit board oriented?

i don't think I have ever seen a volt gauge in any factory vehicle. Why do you guys want to remove the ammeter? Just make sure your connections are clean and tight. If you're worried the by-pass will cut the current through the bulkhead and ammeter more than half.

Yes, just a tiny bit...but if your battery is low it will move to charge until the battery is normal. It will also move further in the discharge position when discharging.

exactly what i did Rusty. I used an 8 gauge wire and ran it through a fusable link to the starter relay. You will quickly see where your new normal will be on the amp gauge...mine is a bit on the discharge side but still charges and discharges normally. ...been running this way for years now...

about 15 years ago Mancini were selling high quality boxes at Carlisle.They also had a bin of orange boxes they said were just adequate ( that looked like that one) and they were $5.00.I bought a couple and have used them different times but not at hi RPM. They are just spares i keep in the...

i just ran an 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay through a fuseable link and kept my alternator and bulk head wiring stock which lets me see charging current. Keep your bulkhead wires and connections clean and covered with dielectric grease. I really like my system but i...

personally i'm ground crazy.I ground the engine,firewall, core support and an external ground even on my electronic ignition module frame

Seems to me some had a ground wire to the rad or core support, but omit it if your rad is aluminum and don't put a ground wire on an aluminum intake either!

if you really look at the process it's hard to believe it evens runs. It happens so many times so fast it's hard to wrap your head around it being that exact?

you light the mixture ahead of top dead centre so the biggest part of the "Boom" occurs just as the piston is heading down. .. that's the simple explanation

I have never seen a stock mopar distributor with only 10 degrees of mechanical advance?

Something just isn't right.A 10:1 340 should be very happy at 12 or so initial timing.Somebody must have welded the slots in the distributor to reduce the mechanical to 10 so 25 initial gives you full advance of 35 degrees.I'm guessing it's a very lo compression engine to be happy at that. If it...

what distributor do you currently have? only 10 mechanical doesn't seem normal.

Standard auto parts store 7mm will be fine. ...but you didn't want to hear that.

the stock ignition is as good as it gets for your application and it's easy to recurve. ...but you didn't want to hear that.

Common auto parts store black 7 mm are fine and will fit stock grommets. ...but you didn't want to hear that.

snug your positive terminal lightly a hair above being bottomed out on the tapered battery post. Lift up at the same time you make a half turn cc to remove.Push down and twist a half turn clockwise to install.It will soon be easy to snug it on or remove when not in use. I would never leave it...

found a better pic...

i mounted mine on the firewall because i sold an airgap for $275 and replaced it with an old Wiend i bought for $56 on E-Bay which had no coil mount.It's hard to see but is mounted horizontally behind the heater hoses. By the way...the old Weind works great!

the firewall "step" is a perfect fit for the coil retaining bracket unequal mounting legs. Double check before you drill and you'll be o.k.