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Don't forget to lube all the bushings up inside and out with Synthetic Disc Brake Grease. It greatly reduces suspension sticktion, squeaks and corrosion, and won't attack rubber or synthetic components.

I buy 2 sizes of Grade 8 washers. One to hold the sleeve in place and one/several to contact the rubber bushing and locate it on the shaft without crushing it. I use a correct sized sleeve. cut to size to not have to use multiple washers and look even more silly that it does. In some cases, I...

I painted mine low-gloss black to make them less visible. Unlike the old school motorheads the overwhelming majority of people now days have no idea what they even do.

I just had an 8 3/4 shortened at a rear end shop that specializes in rear ends. They used a jig that consists of a long round bar that bolts internally to the carrier and the end flanges to stabilize the housing for welding, which they weld in short sections to limit heat build up.

The old adage that, "Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?" is so true. I've found that this hot rodding thing is a progressive disease that gets faster with age. Dang, every vehicle I have is supped up beyond what most normal people can't even fathom.

Nothing wrong with buying professionally set-up components for a build. Knowing when to use experts or do it yourself is a personal choice based on a lot of variables. In the end, it's the combination that matters.

I tried using just a pinion snubber for traction control on my '68 Barracuda and '70 'Cuda. I have a stick in the '70 and an automatic in the '68. When properly adjusted for each application, they made the rear suspension ride so stiff that it was unusable on the street. I believe they would be...

I upgraded my '68 Barracuda's stock rear end with a complete rebuilt A-body 8 3/4 rear end I bought from Dr Diff. It came on a pallet and bolted right in complete with Dr Diff's Econo Rear Disc Brake Kit, sure grip with my choice of gears and aftermarket axles. \ I also run a pair of passenger...

No, no, I've always enjoy reading your posts regarding suspensions etc, and consider your knowledge of the subject top shelf. I often learn a lot from your posts. Carry on.

In the stock position, the rear suspension was not fully extended with the vehicle's weight on it. The torsion bar would slide right out for disassembly. After reclocking to pre-load the torsion bars, I had to use a floor jack with a chain to put the trailing arm back into place. Once...

I used to re-clock the rear trailing arms on the torsion bars on my VWs while converting them to Baja Bugs. The spring rates didn't change, but moving them a spline or two did raise and stiffen the suspension significantly.

You can look on Speedway Motors web site. I have only seen 2" diameter colums, never a 2 1/8". You can always fabricate a mount that fits under the part you posted a picture of using a clamp.

Esspo has them. They know which size you need for factory shackles. I have been lubricating all my suspension bushings with synthetic disc brake grease for decades now. I never assemble any bushings without it. It won't attack rubber or plastic, won't wash out and has 3 excellent additives in...

As mentioned above, that portion is spot welded to the inner fender well. On my '68 Barracuda, all but one or two of the spot welds there had broken loose. When installing my US Cartool chassis stiffening kit, I welded the entire shock tower to the inner fender and re-welded the spot welds. This...

First things first. Set your ride height. Make sure you let it settle between adjustments by driving the car a very short distance, preferably over a good jounce producing bump or two. Also, don't fully tighten the bushings to spec until the suspension height is set.

You definitely want new races with new bearings. Make sure you watch several Youtube videos on the technique of knocking them out and in. Take your time and make sure you get them started straight when knocking them in.

This isn’t actually true. What is not true? I understand that there are different optimal settings for radial vs bias ply tires, but this person is running his suspension at the bottom of the available travel and actually on the bump stops. That is not good for several reasons, which don't...

Your best bet for running the car that low is to use drop spindles, because your front suspension was not designed to have optimum geometry when that close to the bottom of it's travel. By using drop spindles, you can crank the torsion bars up to get to the factory specs. Firm Feel will make...

I have used that purple water rinseable degreaser for years now. It works great, just be careful when using it on aluminum stuff. I've also used Ez-Off oven cleaner on stubborn stuff. I finish up with a power washer either at home or at the local self service car wash. For rusty stuff that has...

I just bought the cheap Lakewood bars from Summit, cut about half the rubber bump stop length off and finally cut and weld the rear bracket so they fit properly. The rubber snubber needs to be almost directly under and almost touching the front spring eye. They do stiffen the spring rate a...

Interesting that they are that much longer, but cut them to fit is what I would do rather than wait for some shorter ones. Lots of people install them dry, but I lubricate all my suspension connections including shock bushings with synthetic disc brake grease. It makes a measurable difference...

I assemble my suspension bushings with synthetic disc brake grease on all bushings etc. It won't attack rubber or plastic, has an incredible list of properties and persists for a very long time. It greatly reduces sticktion in the suspension too.

You just cut the rear seat frame in the middle. That allows it to bend the seat back like a "V" to clear the bars. Bolt a small plate on the back side and install it. It will be hidden from view once installed and undetectable. I had to modify my lower seat frame to make a bit more room...

Lots of guys run them that way, or use 2 bars per side instead of 1.

I put mine through the top and bottom of the seat, where the seatbelts go through. my front shoulder harness has a separate seat belt that reaches them through the same area.

I'm about to dive into a full restomod for a buddy on a 1959 Dodge Sweptline 1/2 ton pickup. I did see that people have used Crown Victoria front suspensions on the later '61 to '74 Sweptlines, but I haven't seen anything for the earlier trucks. I also saw an expensive custom front end with rack...

I posted about that issue. the ball stud fell right out of the cast iron knuckle. I found quality lower ball joints from this place, and bought them from a parts house in Texas. They are still in service and working great. XRF Chassis | Automotive and Heavy Duty Chassis Parts | Canada and...

The factory shock towers in my '68 convertible Barracuda were spot welded with about 6 welds to the inner fender. All but one of them was torn loose. I welded in the entire USCT Chassis stiffening kit. The car already had torque boxes from the factory, and was virtually rust free and in...

72bluNblu always posts great information on suspension. I wanted to add that when adjusting my adjustable strut rods on both my cars, I had to limit the shortening of the strut rod due to the front wheel being moved forward relative to the wheel opening. That limited being able to pull the front...

Nice looking components there. I love it when things fall into place after giving me a scare.