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6o degrese is plenty warm enough to spray primer just keep the heater on until the primer cures

When you drive your car your always lookin down the hood what do you want to see.. make them do it right... they likely won't let you take it without paying any how

Don't Cheap out now mopars are supposed to be body colour on the bottom this way no matter what happens the shiney side will always be up... lol..jus sayin

I love that color Nice choice

most candy paint has a silver base coat so grey primer will work just fine

I don't know about the U.S. but here in Canada Dupont no longer sells chroma base it doesn't meet the low voc standards they now sell water born base..... mo money... duponts lower line of base works well called Nason and meets standards

yes i have done it many times it works great. I have also tried the sem it looks good for a while but it scratch's real easy. The activator in the base coat makes it very hard. If you like you can put a semi gloss clear on top but that up's the cost and may be more of a shine than desired

remove the sticker and sand hood to a 600 grit,repaint hood with black base coat wiith activator. let dry and get new sticker from Gary. base coat with activator will dry to a matte finish No clear. Should only cost about $50 you will only need a pint of paint reduced

Sometimes paint age has a lot to do with matching. Also product brand. Colour is always a little different from brand to brand very hard to match different brands. Spray bombs almost never match. JMO ...Larry

First you must get the entire car down to the same grit lets say 180g. Now you have alot of bare metal so you will need to use a self-etching prime or epoxy prime and start block sanding to get it flat. Once you have it sealed you can use any high build prime on top to get to a 400-600 grit...

If you cut and buff semi-gloss it will become high-gloss

I use single stage acrylic urethane and wet and and buff all the time. Single stage urethane is pretty much the same as clear but with color in it. 1500 to 2000 soft block and lots of water, rinse paper very often as any dirt in paper will make deep scratch's. Then buff with a adjustable buffer...

I am using por 15 on my sons RR clone under body thinned 15% and sprayed shines like a MF and durable as hell.

depending on the paint used. If painting non-metalic I always use acrylic urathane, no need to clear, cuts and buffs like clear as they are both almost the same product. Give it a light 2000grt. wet sand then buff it out and it will look like it was cleared.

Check with Chalengergary on this site he can make you up any thing you want, very good quality and very good prices

If you lived closer to me I would paint it for $1200 material and wetsand and polish included, body work and dent repair extra. Side work for me and I get more work offers than I can handle so you must have a local back yard body man who can hook ya up. Most guys won't sand and polish for that...

I'm a painter and have never been a big fan of blending, in time the blended area will break down for two reasons... first being older paint has been exposed to UV longer and will break down faster than the new hence the checking second the solvent used as the blending agent does not really give...

The silver base coat will flash off pretty quick aprox. 30 min. and you can move to next step but then longer for the clear . touch some tape and make sure it has flashed over then go on to the clear coat

Open the hood and remove the rad cap..........now put a new car under it .... lol....

Your avitar does not say where you are from but a body shop supply here in Windsor deal in alot of A Body Sheet Metal Panels full and partial. They are noot factory but I've used them alot and fit and quality has worked well for me as I am restoring 71 Swinger and prices are very resonable...

I'm an industrial sray painter and electo is mainly for painting hard to do peices like roll cages piping and such. I found that paint will make its way under paper if not 100% sealed. In my opinion not for use on the outer body of a car... maybe undercarriage.. not worth paying extra for.

I would fix that one!! I fix worse than that all the time. I have a moto ... If I can't fix it it aint broke... But really it will take some bfh and dolly skills but it is doable.

Buddy I have been an industial spray painter for years and nothing cleans every thing like M.E.K. ...... methel ethel keytone.... wicked chit man ... Use only in well ventilated area!!!! This stuff will take the spots off a Leopard if I do say so myself lol

I'm a body man and i'll just tell ya now even if you do skin both roofs you will never make that dented one flat enough to be happy with. That a very large concave-flat surface and hard to hide body work, will likely need a vinal to be used... just my opinion.. you'll be flat file'en and...

71 lights sit in resecced groove and would be hard to duplicate

A paint job is not complete until it has been wet sanded and buffed. 2000 wet with a block lots and lots of water. If you come across dirt sand slow as not to rub dirt in and make deep scratches , rinse alot. stay away from edges and body lines very easy to sand through here. When you buff...