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No, not intending anything of the sort. There are three things I want out of my cars. One to be fast, two to stop well and to be safe. I had a Dart with a 440 in it years ago, it was fast but didn’t stop well and wasn’t safe. Every car I’ve owned since then has done all three well. Looking cool...

Same here, I’ve spanked a bunch of cool cars over the years.

I like big carburetors, you just have to tune them. Holley's 950HP carbs don't flow 950 cfm, all they are is a 850 base plate with a 750 sized venturi, they fall in line between the 750 and 850. That being said they are great carbs capable of making a lot of power. As mentioned when you talk to...

Post a photo of the carb, close up.

There are only a few reasons the fuel bowls will have that much gas in them. The floats are bad, the fuel pressure is to high/creeping and overcoming the needles and seats or the needles and seats are bad. Have you verified the fuel/float levels when it start's acting up? If not this is the...

The fuel bowls are full is why it's overflowing.

IMO the 850 is fine for your 440, I ran one years ago on one and it was fine. As mentioned when it starts screwing up check the fuel level in the bowls. It sounds like the fuel level is creeping up as you run it, may be time for new needles and seats.

I'm not sure .010" is enough to worry about the intake fitting. There is a formula for cutting the intake face of the head when milling the decks. Good shops will make this cut as well so factory dimension intakes will fit.

Ok, I didn't know your damper was marked. By reading your earlier post where you referred to the black bushing and it should give 36* total I assumed you had a factory damper. I should've asked, we all know what assume does.

Invest a few dollars in a timing tape, then you know where your total timing is.

I had BLP add them to my main body when I ordered it.

The fitting in the photo with the hard line ran through it is not a flare fitting.

I use brass set screws from Fastenal for IFR's and TSR's, bleeds I usually buy 10 packs of 24's and drill them. I made a fixture to drill IFR's and TSR's out of a piece of 1/4" aluminum by not tapping the threads all the way through. This way the set screw bottoms out in the threads so I can...

If you ever need gaskets buy Superformance. The blue holleys you have to pry off then scrape.

Good luck Myron.

In 1979 my cousin had 1978 trans am that he bought new and installed a set of Ram Air III heads and intake, the car had less than 10K miles on it when the heads were changed. After everything was painted you couldn't tell it had ever been apart. After reading this thread I wouldn't doubt that...

The only time I've experienced a surge at cruise (2500-3000 rpms) was when the rear butterflies were opened to much with the idle adjustment screw. On my QF 750 there is a screw for secondairy idle adjustment on the passengers side. If yours has it try backing it out 1/2 turn and readjust your...

5/16" is plenty for what you're doing.

My Dart has a glass six pack hood on it, the air pan makes a difference at the track. When I drive it on the street I take the pan off and the engine temps are lower.

The 350 isn't a good performance engine? There must be some terrible tuners in your part of the world. There have been some very stout iron headed 350's around here.

The 750 isn't to big, the tune is off for the op's engine.

In some Holley carbs there is a valve in the base plate that saves the power valve in case the engine backfires through the carb. I don't know if the ports are big enough for the ball to make it into power valve well though.

Yes you can use rubber but I'd bend my lines to use the least amount possible. When I'm going to use a rubber hose on a metal line I put the line in the flaring tool like I was going to make a double flare and use the double flare die to put a bulb on the line. Just enough to keep the clamp from...

I ran a Holley blue pump for years, 3/8 line. The pump was mounted in front of the axle where the floorboard kicks up behind the back seat. Never had any issues with it dead headed. Right or wrong? I don't know but it worked great. Btw make sure to use a relay and large enough wire to the pump...

Did you ohm it before installing?

Set it up with the 82/88 no rear pv and see how it runs. If the plugs are black or sooty after cruising (no wot) you may need to jet down the primaries some more. When you pull the secondary bowl to change the jets if the metering block stays on the carb you can see if there is a pv or plug...

Yes, both and I'm betting it could use 31's and be fine. Try the 50cc pumps and see, it may be fine with them but honestly I don't see it "needing" them. Drive it and see if you're happy and it's happy let'er rip.

I run pink cams with 30cc pumps. Keep in mind that 50cc pumps have their own cams, I've heard of guys using 30cc cams on them though.

I'd think 82/88 with no rear PV would be close. Also I don't see it needing 50ccpumps, try the 35's on the squirters, you may even go smaller and be good.

I run a Magnafuel 275 with my battery and relay in the front. The wire from the battery to the relay is 10 gauge and 12 gauge to the pump. I think the 12v relay feed wire is 18 gauge, it requires very little amperage to feed the relay.