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I have used it lots. It dries slow to begin with so you have to give it fairly long flash time in between coats maybe 30 min. but I have sanded it the next day with no shrinkage problems. I have used evercoat Slick sand and love it.

I've used Goodmark and AMD and had great luck with both.

Yes somewhat.

I love Nasons single stage urethane it is tough and looks great.

I have done body work for 24 years and this is what I know, a lot of what Dupont and ppg offer is much more expensive than nason or Omni alot because it made for high output shops, the color match are more accurate, and the flash times are very fast, and are the clear choice for most production...

correct!

This process isn't all that difficult but can turn into a disaster in a hurry! And the clear your using can make a big difference also, some clears buff like butter while others are tough. If you do not have experience I would recommend practice on older car or do some test panels. I also would...

Epoxy is ok to put over filler it's acid etch primers you don't want over fillers.

I Love it !! Good choice!

what kind of paint? Brand and type?

My 71 Dart I am doing now I'm doing body color. When I sprayed the gray epoxy I liked it so much I was tempted to leave it and do the overspray thing, but it isn't a correct restoration so body color it is!

I did a 72 340 Barracuda at the time I worked at a bodyshop that was a Rhinoliner dealer, Hemi orange color matched and sprayed the floors inside and out, trunk area and underside of the inner fenders. matched great, nothing could protect better, sound deadned. At the time we sprayed a lot of...

Dura-block has a great assortment and is available in most automotive paint supply stores or online at autobody toolmart or I'm sure amazon, ebay they are very popular and great quality.

Base/ clear can and should be buffed with in a short window of about 1-5 days or else it can get really tough, back years ago that was not the case with lacquer and enamels because the paint would need time for the solvent to work out of the paint and was soft for weeks.

Nason, Duponts value line is good!!

Also after evercoat rage I use evercoat Slick Sand high build polyester primer for block sanding the stuff is great! Then a 2k urethane of your choice!

I like evercoat Rage gold

I do body work for a living and my opinion would be find a "talented" paintless dent repair shop/guy, (not your auto mechanic with a 2x4 and a hammer lol), and have him do as much as possible a good PDR guy should be to get alot to most of it out, it is in a fairly easy to get to area, then...

Ive been doing body work for 20+ years and have never had any issues with a uni-spotter but once started a Duster on fire while welding a 1/4 panel!! I had the trunk closed with no lock in the trunk and no screw driver ready, got pretty panicy, so my word of advise would be to have a plan if...

I've done many 1/4 replacements on Ford, chevy, and Mopar, I prefer full panel over skins, I think its less work in the long run, but any aftermarket panels I've used have never been a perfect fit out of the box with no issues, however A.M.D has been the best I have used.

I have front fender I'll try to get the measurement off.

Transtar makes great undercoats and you can get white-gray or black

Thats a good price. it saves tons of labor!

I've used "Prep & etch" phosphoric acid from kleen strip used properly it works great lots of good info on it if you search. I saved a hood that I thought was scrap!! Its available at Home Depot I think for less than 20 bucks a gallon.

I like the gold!!

I agree with pnk6pac thats how I do it on restoration stuff but on collsion I do use 2k urethane, both with good results, I find urathanes more spray friendly.

The 2k should be sealed for small sand throughs and scratchs as well as color hold out. I would sealer it with a 2k sealer also. I've seen it done with out but better safe than sorry, get your sealer in white, before you paint nub sand any dust or junk out of sealer.