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Unplug the fan. Disconnect the upper hose at the radiator. Prop the open end higher than the rest of the system. Take the radiator cap off. Start the car. Let it warm up to thermostat opening. Run garden hose into radiator at a reasonabe flow so as not to make a huge mess. Water pump should flow...

Cars with tube headers can give you this impression.

It is leaking from somewhere. It wont fix itself. Any chance the new core was damaged during replacement?

My list of possibles would certainly include an under driven fan. I eliminated the clutch on my 440 RR And never had a problem. All the power in the world is useless on the side of the highway.

^^^This. That's why I said watch it close. In a couple of weeks it will be ten degrees hotter. I think there is more to this. My Dart will idle for hours in the sun if I let it, and stay cool. And it's over 40 years old and still original.

That's much better. Good thing, I had a few dozen suggestions for ya, including some fan related stuff. Do the fans ever shut off? What temp.? Keep your eye on it. Now that you are aware I imagine you will monitor this often until you are comfortable that it is solved.

The majority of break in has pretty much occured. 220 is not a disaster but leaves little room for play. If you don't go thru it step by step, and use the ever popular I hope it is ok method, I would add an oil cooler, and possibly a trans cooler, if it's an automatic.

Please make sure your gauge works properly before you begin a dismantle. You seem to know what you are doing so I won't mention any of the other really easy stuff, just go thru it one step at a time.

Thought you were thinking of using one on the pipe nipples. Oh how I love that word.

I never use it, but as was mentioned what could it hurt. Who cares what it looks like on the outside, just make sure it doesn't end up on the inside.

Maybe a ground problem. I worked on a Volare once and to get the blower motor to work I wrapped a piece of wire around the key chain split ring and the other end around the column shifter and sure enough the blower started. There are a lot of grounds, just start with the big ones. Say block to...

Sounds to me like the heater core is leaking. I wonder if there is oil in your coolant also. That is a different matter. I would at least flush out the system and keep an eye on it.

Yup,take the fan off and run it. Could it be out of balance. If worse comes to worse there is a half stripped Taurus at Caseys in Hesston you could snag parts off.LOL

Put a drop of water on the thermostat housing. If you're anywhere near sea level it will boil if the temp is over 212F.Kind of give you a starting point without dragging out a bunch of gauges, or tearing the dash apart...From what I see in the pics I will side with the temp gauge is off, or...

Those aren't dead ends. Caps on the ends of tubes are. However, plugs are tapered so if you crank them in good some thing can give. The OP now has the knowledge that it can be done, the question is can he do it without cracking the manifold or the pump housing. I'm not even sure why someone...

I always run by-pass hoses. Water systems with dead ends always seem to cause trouble.

http://www.nypost.com/p/news/local/hizzoner_cold_feat_lYxDIMuat7x4PL7nUbdBEM All you need is an inverter.

Before you get to worrying too much one way or the other, check it with a thermometer. Then decide on a course of action that will keep it in specs. Any sort of wear from too much or too little heat is all relative. Even the amount of time it spends in certain heat ranges, like warming up or...

As the coolant cools it is drawn back into the system...along with all the dirt.

Keep an eye on the freeze plugs if it sat with anti-freeze in it. It tends to turn acidic after a while and can damage them.

I don't get this. Why buy a new pump. Just change the gasket. Also, you cannot delete the A/C. It is a known fact that once you have it, you must keep it forever.

The shroud looks like it is blocking air. I know that shrouds seem to cover some of the radiator, but they have an angle to them. Yours looks flat and is thereby pushing air foreward. It could be pushing enough to actually keep it away from the fans. Double check your temps with another...

I'm not sure what the problem is here, but I guess you could cut the old lines out of the way and just use a socket on them.

It just looks like a whole lot of different contaminants that built up. Like rust, salts, dirt, rubber, use of hard water, lack of flushing, and of course age.

I am terrible with a/c but it didn't stop me from removing my condenser this morn. I think there may be a valve that stops the flow of hot water to the heater core. If the cooled air passes through a warm core it will heat up again. You could clamp one of the heater hoses closed and see if...

Just a guess, but if you lean it out it will run even hotter.

The first thing I do with a problem like this is check, then replace or tighten the pump drive belt. Cheap, easy, quick and it works fairly often.