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I was just in there yesterday talking to Richie. The transmission was completed and all pretty on the bench.

I used early upper and intermediate linkages with the adjustable later model lower rod and found it to be a good setup.

Does the kick down (throttle pressure) linkage have any spring to it at all when you push back on it? Is it getting any travel from the carb?

You say it feels like you are taking of in second... Do you actually feel it shift to all gears?

If you know the "feel" you can do it with an impact. If the dimensions are even slightly different from the new to the old, thread counts won't tell you squat. I've even added a very thin shim to reuse a crush sleeve before. You'll know if the sleeve has been over crushed because the bearings...

If its never been run the only thing in the pan should be a little clean fluid. No deposits on the filter. If it sat with the converter unsupported the front seal may be stretched to one side and I would replace it. Much easier now that finding out in the car.

About the only way to know is stick it in and see if it sets up a good pattern. Not likely but stranger things have happened. Only out some time to see.....

did she live in Pasadena and drive a Super Stock Dodge?

4" is a good number depending on if you are running the seal with the dust boot or not. You do not want the boot to touch the shoulder of the yoke or you will get an annoying squeak. You also want the yoke to be able to move in and out with rear spring wrap and suspension travel without...

Sounds like your linkage rods are binding. Did you put one on the other side of the lever from before?

We see the full gamut of temps here from 110s to sub zero.....

Gill Younger's face on the box..... president and founder of Trans-Go... All the newer shift kits have the upgraded spool valve. The last TF-3 kit I had did.

The early cast iron transmissions also had a rear pump but I'm not sure how the fluid path went in park on those......

While answering a post a minute ago I was reminded how I learned the hard way about killing an otherwise good 727 one cold winter morning when I was a teen back in the 70s. We had an very good running 383 HP in a 70 Chrysler Town & Country station wagon. I fired it up that morning and let it run...

I was tired of the over priced low quality re-pop shift boots out there for the A-body. Mine disintegrated way too fast. I happened to have a spare B body bezel which is slightly larger than the A body unit but doesn't require the sub-retainer and trim ring. So I did some measuring and came up...

If your only issue is the carrier then you don't even need to touch the pinion unless it is leaking. Just swap the ring over and set the backlash.

Does the shifter have an adjustable throw length? If so that may be where you need to make a change. Let your transmission detents set then set the cable to them either in park or neutral and go from there.

I moved the springs in too..... http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/i39132-jpg.1714919650/

Nope. I circumcised the seal on my Dart the other day trying to see what the longest driveshaft length was that would fit.

Have to remove the foreskin....

On swapping axles from side to side.... Probably not an issue in mom and pop cars but one that see lots of torque or HP is another story. Both my Cuda and the dragster had twist in the spline area from hard acceleration. Swapping these from side to side would be like swapping torsion bars side...

For stroker applications... :rofl:

Any grease that meets the spec for wheel bearings should be fine. They are just a bit of a pain to pack mounted on the axle.....

And there are a couple of different sized (O.D.)output seals for the 904 based transmission as well. Housing bore 2.372 uses National# 2506 Housing bore 2.249-2.25 uses National # 8935S Both of these are the boot type seal.

They are an easy transmission to build and very tough. I've never tried to put one (short shaft) in a car with doors..... ;) My D200 Power Wagon has one though.

The tailshaft will swap out with a car variety but you still have to go "all in" to do it. Would be easier to just swap the guts to another case.

I did take pics but they may be lost in Myspace somewhere.... There is definitely a difference in the 3.55 and 2.45 carriers but if the gears are matched with the correct carrier you should be good to go. I used the same shims from the 2.45 pinion and it set up fine with the 3.55.

Actually I have never heard of different offset housings, only the carrier. It is just like the spacer for the Chevy rears where you shim out the ring gear instead of changing carriers. They used to make the spacer kit for the 8.25 and Dana I believe which also came with longer special bolts...

I have not seen a difference in offset in the housings, only the carriers. My 75 Dart had the 2.45 gear set before I changed out the gear set and carrier to a sure grip from a Dakota. Still the same housing.