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I am working on a friends 68 Barracuda with a Jegs 408 magum with a 274/474 cam. It sounds pretty salty but is an under performer. It been to a couple of shops and they haven't figured it out. Aside from it having a loud rattle in the heads, to get it to run decent the timing shows 45 degrees...

Hit it with a hammer several times and work it both directions.

Or get the standard one port and use one of these on the other line.....

Torker2 will probably deliver the most in the power band.... right with the Weiand though. Better have some converter though or you'll wish you had a dual plane.

Dog food can lid material under the gasket on the head side and you are good.

Too much vacuum advance? Reluctor gap should be 0.006 or is that for the cylinder clearance on my Dan Wesson.....

Should work well.

Too long a bolt in a rocker arm stand could have caused a crack that slowly feeds oil into a cooling passage.... just a SWAG.

In theory as long as you keep it clean yes. They are still a problem on many new models, especially diesels.

EGR solved some of these problems at the price of performance. They were intentionally running a lean mixture and just filling up space in the cylinder with a somewhat inert gas from the exhaust. The causes will be one or more of the following: high cylinder temp, lean mixture no mater what your...

Do you have an accurate reading of operating temperature and or cylinder head temperature? What is the concentration of your coolant/antifreeze? Too much antifreeze reduces the efficiency of the cooling system. Anything to reduce cylinder temperature will also reduce the chance of detonation...

What carburetor? Your metering rods or power valve may be too weak and pulling closed...

Because the aftermarket intakes are not drilled for them. You should be able to pull them out with a pair of dikes and a screwdriver.

It not a Chevy.... The distributor may not have to be pulled....

Lack of vacuum advance. It's ping is probably related to a fuel curve issue. Getting control of the advance curve for a street car is also different than a race car or car with a high stall converter. All in at 2500 is not a good thing with a tight converter and slightly lean mixture. Slow the...

Why did it run better with old heads? Port Velocity! The way you are set up right now smaller runners would give you the torque you are missing. HP is directly related to RPM and that is where the converter is kicking your butt.

The best solutions are gears, converter and larger exhaust as mentioned. The band aid things that are cheap and will improve performance are: X or H pipe, Advancing cam, adding a little slack to the valve lash, carb spacer, carb tuning.

Not a maybe... It WILL.

If you don't have an X or H pipe adding one will also help your problem.

I'd set them at .018 and .026 and see if the bottom end comes back some. It should. That cam is a bit much for your converter. The old heads obviously had better port velocity to help compensate for other inequities.

Valve lash set too tight......

That thing should be frying the tires. Sounds like you need some carb tuning or just try a different style and size to see if that is your choke point. You could probably eek out a few more degrees total timing but there is more to it that timing. Vacuum at idle? How do the plugs look?

Gears and converter?

Sounds more like aerodynamics to me..... Is the rubber seal between the core support and hood still intact? You should be getting a visible flow at T-stat opening temp of considerable volume as well. They may be on to a thermostat issue as well. Never had a water pump issue other than seals or...

Yes but the water pump lines up with it..... The alternator is pretty easy to set back. I've seen other threads with this issue and most of it had to do with how the brackets stack up.

Crank and water pump line up.... OK. The thickness of the brackets is about 1/8" and if you stack them wrong this usually happens. Is it possible you can readjust the pump and alternator brackets?

Do it!

How many miles on the engine? Does there seem to be much slack in the timing chain? It sounds like maybe the timing has slipped a tooth on the chain..... RE: late valve timing..... 25 degrees initial sounds like a lot for a stock spec cam to not have starting issues.

Boost reference on a blow through or venting on a marine application. It does not need to be blocked unless you want an engine full of fuel in the event of a diaphragm failure.