Frozen water pump bolt

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gtgto

gtgto

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I'm going through freshening up my 70 340 and I'm getting ready to replace the timing chain, water pump, hoses, plugs and wires. Started disassembly tonight and the same water pump bolt that broke in my previous 340 is frozen in this one too. I haven't broken the head off the bolt but I am seeing it in my future. I took all the other water pump bolts out and I can get the pump to move and the bolt isn't so its frozen in the damn timing chain cover.....again...... I'm sure this is pretty common since I'm 2 for 2 with the same issue. Is there any tricks I can try. I'm soaking the hell out of it with PB Blaster now but where I'm spraying is nowhere near where the problem is I'm afraid. I've been pounding on the bolt as well. Should I take all the bolts holding the timing cover and starting pounding on it too? I can hit it with a torch but like I said before the problem is down deeper in the timing cover I think, I'm hoping someone here has a trick to get this issue resolved....Thanks
 
Hit it with a hammer several times and work it both directions.
 
Cut the head of the bolt off with a wiz wheel. Remove the water pump. Then wiggle and manipulate the timing cover off the left over bolt. Soak the bolt where it threads into the block with PBlaster then use a stud remover to back it out.

When reinstalling those four long bolts, coat both the threads and the bolt shafts with a good coating of RTV. This will stop it from happening again.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I always use never seize on the long bolts that go thru the WP and TC.
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That's perfectly fine on the shaft of the bolt, but I have had better success with RTV all the way on the shaft and the threads. The anti seize does work great at keeping the bolt from rusting up but it will not seal the threads going into the water jacket. RTV will do both.
 
Have you tried heating the block with a torch near where the frozen/stuck bolt is???
 
Once in a while, removing the head of the bolt, then removing the timing cover, then grabbing the bolt shank with a small pipe wrench right against the block face and twisting both directions will work. When that fails I remove the bolt shank to flush with the block, center drill as accurate as possible, then step up drill sizes to the size drill required for the thread size ( 3/8 thread requires about 5/16 drill ) and clean up with a tap. I absolutely hate easy outs.
 
I hate easy outs too.
Hitting the cover with the torch is pretty tricky, but I got that to work once. I had cut the head off as suggested. Then heat. But it was no easy job, as I had to learn how to heat that great big heat-sink of a cover, without heating the bolt at the same time. If it happens to me again, I will try something else, cuz the torch method was a PITA.

One idea I had,for next time, was to Zip-cut right through the aluminum cover and the bolt, about 1 inch from the block. Then remove the cover to the bench to punch out that bolt.And finally Tig the slot up. Getting the cut-off stud out of the block should be pie. Just an idea at this time.
 
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Cut the head off the bolt and remove the cover, slide a larger nut over the shaft off the old bolt and weld the together close to the block, most time the heat from welding it loosens the threads at the same time.
 
I've had the timing cover oxidize to the bolt before too. Most likely as mentioned you'll have to cut the head of the bolt off then get the cover broke loose and work it off. The bolt should thread out then. Now I use thread sealer on the threads and anti seize on the bore of the timing cover. I use as little silicon as possible, seems it shows up some where I don't want it to later if I use to much.
 
67autocross said:
Cut the head off the bolt and remove the cover, slide a larger nut over the shaft off the old bolt and weld the together close to the block, most time the heat from welding it loosens the threads at the same time.
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I don't own a welder. I was thinking of heating the cover and then using a impact wrench on it. I'm pretty sure the bolts gonna snap off. Then I will have to cut through the timing cover and hopefully get it off to remove the threaded part still in the block. I just posted a wanted add for a timing cover since I don't think this ones going to make it.Its gonna be a fun day today, I can tell.
 
Okay I agree with triple R's first post on how to solve this but not owning a welder with one of these cars is going to set you back. There's always something and thank goodness for Harbor Freights cheap $99 welder of course we all want an nice Miller, but it's invaluable at this price and actually does the job and I highly recommend. I use it all the time for any number of things to do with the car and other things. As an example people by frame connectors for upwards of $200? You could buy a $99 Harbor Freight welder a $15 cutting grinder and a nice $35 automatic helmet for 150 bucks and spend less than $40 on the metal stock for some frame connectors and make them yourself cut them yourself and weld them on yourself and they would be better than those cheaply made bolt on kind.
Now back to your regularly scheduled program LOL
gtgto said:
I don't own a welder.
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Grind the head off and get the cover away from this project...... Go in a different direction from heat. Get some Loc-Tite Freeze and Release. I use it all the time. Read the directions. The other option in regards to freezing is if you have a bottle of NOS at your disposal. Gas that bad boy and put the freeze on it. The shrinks the metal enough to release the rust and bam your problem will be behind you real quick like.... Vice Grips and spin it out....

Good luck,
JW
 
As mentioned, cut the head off, remove cover, evaluate how to get the rest of bolt out.

You can apply heat to the cover to try and get some expansion to break the bond. Tapping the cover with a hammer can help

A propane torch around the area to heat it can work along with wicking in candle wax or PB blaster when hot. Heat up the block, not the bolt. That area of the block is pretty thick and heat won't normally effect the surface. Smacking it with a hammer when heated up will shock the threads/rust and help with removal.

Freezing the bolt is another option. Most people don't have a compressed gas around to do this.
 
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crackedback said:
As mentioned, cut the head off, remove cover, evaluate how to get the rest of bolt out.

You can apply heat to the cover to try and get some expansion to break the bond. Tapping the cover with a hammer can help

A propane torch around the area to heat it can work along with wicking in candle wax or PB blaster when hot. Heat up the block, not the bolt. That area of the block is pretty thick and heat won't normally effect the surface. Smacking it with a hammer when heated up will shock the threads/rust and help with removal.

Freezing the bolt is another option. Most people don't have a compressed gas around to do this.
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They sell it at parts stores.... Wart Remover from a Drug Store can do the same thing...

JW
 
I was able to use good old muscle and a WTF attitude. I heated the TC cover up and used a breaker bar and loosened it some and then tightened it some for a while. It never rotated easily and I was waiting for a snap but it never happened. It came out enough and I was able to pry the water pump out. The bolt is still stuck in the water pump. I do need to get it out since the alternator brackets are still on there but I won't be using that bolt again for sure. Thanks for all the ideas....Can always depend on fellow car nuts for knowledge. I have a birthday coming up and a welder is at the top of the list since I should have one by now. Thanks again
 
Try heating the timing cover and brackets with a propane torch to help break them loose, much cheaper than oxy-acetylene for now...
 
gtgto said:
I was able to use good old muscle and a WTF attitude. I heated the TC cover up and used a breaker bar and loosened it some and then tightened it some for a while. It never rotated easily and I was waiting for a snap but it never happened. It came out enough and I was able to pry the water pump out. The bolt is still stuck in the water pump. I do need to get it out since the alternator brackets are still on there but I won't be using that bolt again for sure. Thanks for all the ideas....Can always depend on fellow car nuts for knowledge. I have a birthday coming up and a welder is at the top of the list since I should have one by now. Thanks again
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Well my latest project has been completed. Got it all apart and cleaned up and painted the parts going back on. I ended up replacing the timing chain,water pump, belt and all the hoses, I wasted some cash after removing my radiator and seeing alot of corrosion in it. I brought it to a shop and asked to have it flushed out. After they put high pressure through it it had some leaks so I ended up getting it re cored. It cost me more than if I would've gotten a factory one redone probably...Oh well at least it looks new although it has no part numbers like the factory one. Have only fired her up a few times. Not seeing any leaks but I'm hoping to take it out for a ride before the front end bushing kit is installed.
 
Did you chase the threads in the block with a tap to clean up the threads before assembling???
 
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