Search results for query: *

Did you recently get fuel before this happened? Locking gas cap? Tick anyone off lately? Dies on rev could be fuel starvation or contaminated fuel, low voltage or bad coil in ignition will also die at rev.....

Dunk it in some Evapo-Rust overnight and see what it looks like then..... Take the brass off first.

If it did over fill it wouldn't be by much as slow as you are putting the fuel in. You will see it start to come out the boosters if you over fill it so just stop. It would be about like pumping it a few times.

I use one of those small Sriracha sauce bottles and it will usually take all of it without spilling over.

They are all vent tubes.

Sounds like a stronger power valve may be needed as well.... Looks like you have them switched. 5.5 should be in front. Any time you are using the secondaries the vacuum is going to be lower. What is your idle and part throttle vacuum reading?

Fuel supply issue.....

There is a difference. One is timed "ported" so that it only draws at part throttle. That one is on the front and is usually preferred for Mopars.

Weiand and Edelbrock both are pretty close but neither have a choke well. The old DP4B won't have EGR stuff. The Edelbrock 2186 will have provisions for the choke but also has EGR ability and a slightly taller profile than stock.

Just curious if this setup is using vacuum advance and if so does the problem stay the same with it disconnected......

Your mopar linkage bolt fits the single hole side and the bracket bolts to the carb with the same offset as the OEM carb. Minor linkage adjustments is all even with the adapter plate...

I think it will like it....

There are some really good tips and info in this thread Rusty.... Edelbrock models 1405 versus 1406 carburetors

3 turns on the screws usually means you have a good grasp on the T slot exposure but could be border line lean or too big a PCV. It really depends on where you are getting your idle air bypass. Depending on where the hesitation is, pump cam profile and squirter nozzle size along with float level...

68 340 style air cleaner... 68 383 style air cleaner...

Whatever your vacuum is in gear at idle I'd get a primary power valve rated as close to 2" lower in vacuum as I could. On the secondaries the same or weaker, just not one that will suck shut at WOT.

I sell a lot of OEM O-rings for specific applications and they are made from some pretty exotic materials sometimes.

I understand supply and demand and tooling cost but it still burns my butt that a part so similar has to cost three times as much for a Mopar.

It's my Jewish heritage.....

Looks like I may be able to use a Jeep spacer for $12

I will also check the similarities with the big block pump since they are much more similar in arm design and operation. Not worried about the arm length or geometry as I've compared the travel on several. The arm is longer on both ends so no real net gain or loss. The neutral position is the...

So as you can see the distance from the mounting flange is just under 11/16 difference. Longer bolts and two gaskets along with the 5/8 spacer should make it work. Though not really cost effective at this point I do have some aluminum stock I can cut into a spacer that will relocate the pivot...

I have the Speedmaster Chevy pump and a used Mopar pump with the arms removed now. The solution to the arm swap is a 5/8" spacer with a new pivot pin hole. Pics momentarily.

The only one I've seen is one that clips on the metal fuel line from the tank unit to the body mounted line.

It really bugs me that Mopar didn't leave the carb sideways on the Super Six. I didn't have hardly any linkage issues using the original 1BBL stuff. I added the bracket to the other side of the carb and added a small metal shield to keep the kick down rod in place at WOT. The issues most people...

Plus these fuels are "blends" and components will separate over time especially when static. I just pumped a bunch of orange cloudy fuel out of the wife's 65 Mustang.....

This is what I did.... noticeable improvement in driveability and throttle response. 318 Carb and adaptation to Slant pic

It may be possible to swap the newer base plate to the old carb. You will need to examine the gaskets carefully though and see if the passages are compatible. The lever for the metering rod arm may not have a hole to go in though.

I actually prefer the top design because they have a mechanical metering rod override that is adjustable. Many times rebuilders get parts mixed up on these. The carb kits available often don't include the correct gasket for the baseplate to body and the original has to be reused. There are so...