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The reverse lever is in the case not the cover..... ;)

The balance of a driveshaft is most noticeable in the lower (higher numeric) gear ratios where the shaft speed is greater. The thing that really makes one shake is if the phasing is off even just a little. If the yokes on each end are not in the same plane you will know it pretty quickly. If it...

75 Dart with the OD trans.

Is this an OD transmission or close ratio?

Lots of good pics in this thread A-833 4 Speed Rebuild pics

The detent sleeve with the spring and two balls also has a rod that looks like a left over needle bearing that has to be inside of the spring. Do you remember that part? It keeps the two main levers from being out of detent at the same time.

Just by recollection I would say 4.5 x 6.....

I had the same issue with a re-pop shift boot in the 75 dart. I ended up using the chrome B body bezel and a Chevy truck boot that actually works better and costs $20. Accelerator Pedals, Pads and Floor Parts - 1970 Transfer case shift boot, 4x4

Pretty sure the early A will be for a smaller clutch so go with the later aluminum unit....

Seems like the special tool I used was an allen wrench to line up the shifter. When it is all lined up you need to pull the rods off the transmission levers and see if they fall further one direction or the other to the correct detent stop. Then adjust the rod ends to fit the new lever locations.

Like that 1-2 spread a lot better than my OD trans. What gears in the back?

I have a tool similar to this for 727 sized bushing. They can crush the fiber thrust washers in older automatics but in a manual trans you should be safe. The y should come with the proper size bushing driver as well.

First thing I would do is make sure the shifter linkage is in good condition and adjusted properly. If somebody has been into the transmission the could have left out the detent block rod or something else.....

What the fork?

I once added some Slick-50 Teflon grease via syringe to the 90w in my old three speed side loader and was very pleased with the improvement.

This post is very helpful! I did my shift shaft seals over the weekend and put a few more pics up in this thread! The exploded view of the detent was especially helpful as I almost had a heart attack when I found the interlock rod on the bench and hadn't seen it fall out of the spring. A-833...

Thanks to smartken22 and this thread A-833 4 Speed Rebuild pics I have a few more pics to add showing what I did to replace the O-rings on the shift shafts. I was able to remove the reverse shaft and gear without ant big headaches or complete tear down. What makes it easier is rotating the...

While not optimal as a drag race tranny for the short stroke engines I really enjoy my A833OD behind a 324 CID with swirl ports and a decent cam (292/455) headers etc. The 3.55 gear or lower is the trick. Still a broad span and it does lug if you don't stretch it out but very nice manners. Seems...

The reinforcement/mounting plate for the master looks different than the one I ended up using because I originally tried some Nissan parts that didn't provide the travel needed. Just in case you noticed.... :) The Jeep master bolt holes are side by side... The aftermarket universal pull type...

The old thread is buried in several years of posts and probably hard to find. The master cylinder is from a 84-86 Jeep Part # CM1263 / CM39738 BORE 0.699 $33.99 I used my own push rod design, as I recall the Jeep one was too short to reach the pedal where I wanted to attach it. Old Slave 80-85...

I've been using Jeep components on my Dart Sport's hydraulic clutch system with no issues. At the time I did the conversion I didn't have my new shop or lift so I "settled" for an OK system. The geometry is not what I wanted but works. I recently found that a slave cylinder from a Toyota Land...

I've seen it on a few applications. You would use three heim joints and still have a cup and socket unless you revamped the fork. It was easier for me to go hydraulic.

And old knees! :)

Using a hydraulic clutch system may make it easier....

I don't have any measurements....

Not with the O.D tranny with low first gear......

Flywheel and clutch should be the same. Just make sure the big block bell housing is set up for the 10.5 clutch. The problems would be with balance if you are going cast crank INTERNAL VS EXTERNAL BALANCE etc... The pivot ball and bracket for the big block bell housing to fit the A body I'm...

I found that a 70s GM pickup boot for $20 works great for the round shifter with a B-body trim ring. Just drill a couple of new screw holes.

You will rotate the housing adapter so that it puts the gear closer to the tail shaft. No sure how the number reads. I believe it should appear just to the left of the reaining fork ear on the left side. As you rotate and feel resistance try LIGHTLY turning the gear with a small screwdriver to...

Depending on how severe a "jump" it took you may want to look at your ring gear too.....