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Well, I feel dumb. I already looked at that site, filled it out and printed it. Not on my game with the virus crap! Thanks, Mark

When narrowing a Dana 60, do I use the 7 1/4" center section placement as a guide for the big Dana's alignment, or just put the pumpkin dead center?

I will probably only run it at the strip once, the get thrown out for not having a cage. It will see mostly Street fun. Subaru kinds need an attitude adjustment!

I pit crewed for formula Mazda and got some driving lessons from pretty good drivers. Been steering with throttles and driving junk with too much power most of my life! Just want to make sure if I blow a tire at the big end it will not do something unexpected to the last car I will likely run.

Just can't bring myself to cut an original, rust-free 1969 Dart GT, although I am going to have to weld in sub frame connectors or risk twisting the unibody the first time it hooks.

I just don't want to end up in the weeds if I have to take a corner like my old Hemi Road Runner would with skinnys in the front and fatties in the back.

1. When the rear springs are moved inboard does it adversely affect handling? 2. Does relocating the springs buy you any tire width without mini-tubs? 3. If moving the springs inboard causes excessive body roll, could a fat sway bar control that?

Doctor Diff to the rescue!

I'm sorry to ask this because I know it has been asked before and I am just too lame to find it in a search (but I did try). I need to get a Dana 60 for my '69 Dart GT, and I need to know the factory width and if there is any difference needed in width if mini-tubbed? This is the last major...

Less friction than a Dana 60, but weaker.

Can't do it! A built 9" is about the same as a narrowed D60, and my stubborn Mopar self respect wouldn't allow a Ferd part in there!

Good to know, the weight does make a difference, weighs 1k less than the Hemi car did.

Anyone have a high torque 440 with a stick and bad judgement and sticky tires out there? Trying to make sure a Dana 60 is an absolute must. Had one from the factory in a '68 Hemi Road Runner I owned (and drove irresponsibly) in an earlier life, and it was flawless. My '69 Dart will have less...

Thanks for the reply! We live against the national forest, and it is lovely. I have a set of the Pro Parts style headers with two tubes over the frame on the drivers side and one on the passenger side. Hoping that I won't have to grind.

Does anyone know if I will have to clearance the firewall to use a Lakewood safety bell housing?

Have the Dart, have the 440, have the A833, need a bell housing. I don't care about originality, just need a bell. I can't find interchange info on this. Anyone have experience in this area? Would a Big Block bell out of a truck work? How about B or E body?

So, I have the pedals here and an A833 coming. Converting my console automatic to manual and can't find even a repop of that weird shaped shift lever. Anyone know of a source?

Must be the carburetor. I run Edelbrock/Carter because they are so much more fuel efficient on the street and still run hard.

That's pretty horrendous mileage. I read the entire thread and didn't find what cam and specs you are running. Must have a crapload of overlap. Thanks for the great post.

Thanks for all the replys. Looks like I am picking up a crate 440 (new, still in the box) with the car. Don't have specs on that either but the lady's brother bought the crate motor for his wrecked '68 Charger and never got to it. He recently died. So, I think I can get the car and 440 for a...

I'm buying a 1969 Dart GT, all factory original with a 273ci and automatic. I don't have the VIN or any specifics yet, so was wondering if anyone could tell me what trans (727, 904) this car is likely to have and what rear diff? I hope it's an 8 3/4. Thanks for any insight. Mark