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I've got a '70 & '73 318LA engine. Are there any differences that I should be aware to make my decision on which one to rebuild? Or are they the same engine?

I know this is an old thread but, is Demon Sizzler (David) still around. He hasn't posted in 2 years. I'm looking to get some Thermoquad info.

Yes, it looks exactly like that. I don't have an oil pressure gauge in the instrument panel so I assume the P.O. was going to put one in it. I guess all I have in the instrument panel is a light so I bought this from O'reillys (Part #S310) just to get this back to stock. Does that sound like...

I started up my 1970-318 Duster and the P.O. put a tube on top of the oil pressure sending unit and then proceeded to plug it with a screw. Needless to say, oil all over my garage floor. That oil sending unit is broken, correct? Otherwise it wouldn't be spewing oil everywhere. Isn't it...

I'm missing something here. Is the CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH test what you are talking about? I did that and still the key does not turn over the motor.

Engine turns over but only by jumping the starter relay. Hooked a jumper from CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH to ground and turned the key. Still nothing,

This is incorrect. I can fire the starter with a screwdriver when i jump the starter relay terminals.

I jumped the large stud to the small screw on the starter relay and the motor turns over but will not start. The ignition key is turned to on. I tested the ballast resistor with a voltmeter and it does have continuity. I do not have spark at the plugs.

Brrrrrr, that was a cold winter. Back to work again. So this motor has no spark. I'll get on troubleshooting that but, the battery negative cable gets pretty hot when I try to start it. Is that normal?

Is there anything between the starter relay and the ignition switch that needs to be checked? Otherwise, I assume its a bad ignition switch.

I took the GREEN wire off and jumped the terminal to ground, nothing happens when I turn the key.

Should I change the ignition? I looked around and all the plugs are connected.

I cleaned up the terminals on the starter relay and now the starter turns over by shorting those two terminals. But, the ignition key still does nothing when I turn it.

I got my pictures out of order so sorry about calling the first one a voltage regulator. I knew it. Anyway, I know that the starter relay will not fire the starter with a screw driver. I tried it already. But, I am not sure if all the wiring is done right on the clutch pedal safety switch...

Trying to get my 318 to fire for first time since I bought this Duster. I turn the ignition key and nothing happens. So I'm tracing the ignition, one part at a time, to see where the problem is located. All I know for sure is that the battery is fully charged. I do know that the second...

Not yet, there's a guy back in Quinlan that builds them. I'm not too concerned about getting one. Think I'm keeping the car now.

Scrapped the 318 rebuild, was getting too expensive with already over $2500 in cost. So I found a 440 w/727 today for $850 and only 65k miles on it. I'm going big block on this project. See me over in new thread asking questions on the conversion. Thanks to all!!!

I need some cam bearings. Any suggestions guys?

Yea, I hear ya. That's why the budget is so strict. I have other places I want to splurge. Plus storage costs are outrageous.

I've got 2 Darts, one is a Swinger and the other is a Sport. Gonna make a Demon-like clone out of the Sport. I have an original '72-340 that is untouched. This is just one of my projects. I like to spread around the wealth. :cheers: I'm doing a 280ZX Turbo, 2 Monte Carlo SS, 2 Trans Ams...

It's stock bore right now, I'm going to bore to .030" and buy new pistons. Valve size staying stock due to cost again. I can check it out but I'm not to anxious about going to 1.88". I already know about the mismatch on the intake ports, going to live with it for now. If I do all this, I'm...

I took the block apart today and looks like the cylinders have to be bored out. So now I'm looking at the following rebuild with the addition of bore and pistons. 1. Stock 318 block bored 0.030" over, crank with typical clean, flux, and reassembly. Polish the crank and new rings, plugs, oil...

Was going with Summit Racing® True Roller Timing Set (SUM-G6603), unless there is a better suggestion. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6603/overview/

I didn't phrase that question right. I am going to put in new springs. Should I use the stock valve springs (new) or change them to something that is compatible with the Summit cam? If I need to change to another spring other than stock, which ones?

Would I need to change the valve springs for the Summit cam?

So all these rear ends are bolts in, no changes required? I know where a 74 Duster is getting parted out. Guess I need to go look at it.

Where can I find a list of the rear ends that will fit? I already have the big bolt pattern on the wheels so that's not a problem. I'd rather change rear ends as a complete if I was going to do it. So you're in Hawaii in the armed forces?

I think they would. Is there a direct swap for a 8-3/4" rear end?

Ok, my original post is getting changed now based on all this feedback. Thanks to all! First, I just spent the afternoon at the junk yard pulling the stock exhaust manifolds ($30) that were with on the 302 heads I just bought so that problem is solved there, I think. I already have the...

Ok, this getting more expensive. I'm now considering going back to stock w/just 302 heads, the 4 barrel TQ and dual exhaust. Remember, I'm just wanting to get this car on the street before it goes up for sell. Pisses me off that I lost my driver's side exhaust manifold those suckers are...