318 Build Stock++

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Well, if you can get away with a quick ball hone/bearings/rings/gaskets/krylon rebuild, groovy. The summit cam kit would work fine, and will be forgiving with the components-although I think you meant 901-16 springs...the 911s are drop ins for big blocks. I think you may be well served to advance the cam a few degrees though...I think it's supposed to go in at a 109*ICL...maybe bring it forward to 104-106* and if you can swing it, shave the heads a little with those thin gaskets.

Gears...well, if it's a 7.25" rear, I think you're pretty close to outta luck. The only places I see them with any regularity is on here...some guys parting out first gen Barracudas sometimes have some pieces parts for them...you try putting out a want ad for a set yet?

If you have the car for a few years, I might be interested :)
 
you think these would work? lol

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-gear-pinion-1960-1961-Valiant-7-1-4-3-91-ratio-29-spline-2070140-/360795467989?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item540115f0d5&vxp=mtr"]Mopar Gear Pinion 1960 1961 Valiant 7 1 4 3 91 Ratio 29 Spline 2070140 | eBay[/ame]

I can't speak with any certainty that the 7 1/4 rear came with a 10 spline or a 29 spline u joint flange...
 
You can pull an 8 3/4 from any A body and slap it in yours if it's complete with u bolts, brakes, shock plates, etc...might need to swap the brake flex line or something minor like that...you'll also need to crop your driveshaft about 2.3" unless you get one to go with it.

You can also swap in an 8 1/4" from a 73-76 A body, but you'd be swapping to large bolt pattern wheels. That will open your options for gears quite a bit too-the 90s V6 Dakotas used an 8 3/8" rear, which actually was the same axle housing, so you can pirate the center pieces from one of them and swap them in.

In a nutshell, swapping gears will involve some money...if I were back in Abilene right now, I might be able to help you out...
 
txstang84 said:
You can pull an 8 3/4 from any A body and slap it in yours if it's complete with u bolts, brakes, shock plates, etc...might need to swap the brake flex line or something minor like that...you'll also need to crop your driveshaft about 2.3" unless you get one to go with it.

You can also swap in an 8 1/4" from a 73-76 A body, but you'd be swapping to large bolt pattern wheels. That will open your options for gears quite a bit too-the 90s V6 Dakotas used an 8 3/8" rear, which actually was the same axle housing, so you can pirate the center pieces from one of them and swap them in.

In a nutshell, swapping gears will involve some money...if I were back in Abilene right now, I might be able to help you out...
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Where can I find a list of the rear ends that will fit? I already have the big bolt pattern on the wheels so that's not a problem. I'd rather change rear ends as a complete if I was going to do it.

So you're in Hawaii in the armed forces?
 
Just do the research on here...if you're looking for a bolt in job, you'll need to look for A bodies...darts, dusters, valiants, etc.

Yes, I'm at Hickam now...or as the Navy likes to call it, Joint Base Pearl Harbor-Hickam. I'm USAF, and used to be stationed at Dyess, there next to Abilene.

You can also bolt in a 65-70 B body rear, but you'd have to relocate your spring perches to 43". I guess if you're willing to go to that distance, you can install the rear out of an F/M/J/R body if you relocate them...or even an 8.8 Ford rear out of a late model Exploder...they come with 3.73s with a trac loc all the time for towing packages, but you have to modify the axle tubes...there's a sticky in the drivetrain section for that mod.
 
If your car already has disk brakes, you already have a BBP rear axle. Besides any 73 and later A-body with factory disks, 64-66 Mustang/Falcon, and leaf sprung Grenada/Monarch/Versailles axles fit. Watch the early Ford stuff, some of it was four bolt. These are the only direct, bolt-in fits that I know of. Everything else calls for chopping and/or welding
 
2 Darts said:
If your car already has disk brakes, you already have a BBP rear axle. Besides any 73 and later A-body with factory disks, 64-66 Mustang/Falcon, and leaf sprung Grenada/Monarch/Versailles axles fit. Watch the early Ford stuff, some of it was four bolt. These are the only direct, bolt-in fits that I know of. Everything else calls for chopping and/or welding
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So all these rear ends are bolts in, no changes required? I know where a 74 Duster is getting parted out. Guess I need to go look at it.
 
I wouldnt spend the extra money on the Mopar Performance cam. The Summit caams work well. Lots of guys are running them here.
 
AdamR said:
I wouldnt spend the extra money on the Mopar Performance cam. The Summit caams work well. Lots of guys are running them here.
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x2. Keep it cheap and charming, and the Summit cam has less potential to be poorly made. You can also run manifolds off a Magnum V8 which should be easy to get in the boneyards - or just look for a "parting out" thread in the parts cars section. Someon will have one for minimal cash.
 
I didn't phrase that question right. I am going to put in new springs.

Should I use the stock valve springs (new) or change them to something that is compatible with the Summit cam? If I need to change to another spring other than stock, which ones?
 
I'd recommend using Comp 901-16 springs (or equivalent) at least...they're cheap, I'm pretty sure they're good to .500" lift, and they drop right in to the installed height requirement for stock LA heads. Even the Summit cam you want to use is a pretty significant bump in lift and duration compared to a stock 318 cam.
 
mickey_bigdaddy said:
Was going with Summit Racing® True Roller Timing Set (SUM-G6603), unless there is a better suggestion.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6603/overview/
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There are always better suggestions, but for what you're doing, that should work. Regardless of what timing set you choose, degree the cam...always degree the cam. My brother bought a similar timing set for his 340 and during the install we discovered the divot must've been placed on the wrong cam gear tooth...dot to dot was 11* retarded...either that or the cam was ground off index.

Bottom line, degree it and advance/retard as necessary or desired.
 
I took the block apart today and looks like the cylinders have to be bored out. So now I'm looking at the following rebuild with the addition of bore and pistons.

1. Stock 318 block bored 0.030" over, crank with typical clean, flux, and reassembly. Polish the crank and new rings, plugs, oil pump, main & cam bearings, and hardware.
2. Keith Black KB Performance Piston and Ring Kits (KB167KTM-030)
3. Summit 340 camshaft K6901 kit (with hydraulic lifters) with specs. .441/.441 lift and 276/288 advertised duration, RPM Range:1,800-5,500
4. '86 4323302 heads with STOCK 1.78" & 1.50" valves, Comp Cam springs #901-16, and stock 318 pushrods
5. Mr. Gasket #720-1121G head gasket with compressed thickness .028"
6. Stock '84 360 intake manifold with 360 intake gaskets
7. Stock ThermoQuad carb smaller primaries, 1-3/8" (really want to work this out since I want this carb for my upcoming 340 build)
8. Stock ignition
9. Stock 904 automatic
10. Stock exhaust manifolds with dual exhaust
11. Stock rear end 7-1/4" with 2:76 gears

How's it look now?
 
How much was it bored already? Are you saying it already has KBs, or you plan to buy a set?

With the KB pistons your static CR will be up around 9.7:1 assuming .012" in the hole as the math works out, your thin head gasket, and a 62cc chamber (which is about where the stock 302s usually come out). With that much compression you can leave the cam degreed as spec'd by Summit or @ 110*...whichever you can easily achieve. Also with iron heads, you'll need to be mindful of your timing curve with the increased CR...I don't have the dynamic ratio calculator saved on my desktop, otherwise, I'd try to help you work it out.

Any particular reason you want to stay stock on your valve sizes? Just curious...

To me, the only thing significant that changed was the choice of pistons which put a more than noticeable bump in your compression. I can't believe I just noticed this, but your 360 intake may outsize your 318 intake ports on those 302 heads...have you thought about some port matching?

Overall, it should run fine given what you want to do with it...but you will leave some power on the table with the top end and exhaust...
 
txstang84 said:
How much was it bored already? Are you saying it already has KBs, or you plan to buy a set?

With the KB pistons your static CR will be up around 9.7:1 assuming .012" in the hole as the math works out, your thin head gasket, and a 62cc chamber (which is about where the stock 302s usually come out). With that much compression you can leave the cam degreed as spec'd by Summit or @ 110*...whichever you can easily achieve. Also with iron heads, you'll need to be mindful of your timing curve with the increased CR...I don't have the dynamic ratio calculator saved on my desktop, otherwise, I'd try to help you work it out.

Any particular reason you want to stay stock on your valve sizes? Just curious...

To me, the only thing significant that changed was the choice of pistons which put a more than noticeable bump in your compression. I can't believe I just noticed this, but your 360 intake may outsize your 318 intake ports on those 302 heads...have you thought about some port matching?

Overall, it should run fine given what you want to do with it...but you will leave some power on the table with the top end and exhaust...
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It's stock bore right now, I'm going to bore to .030" and buy new pistons. Valve size staying stock due to cost again. I can check it out but I'm not to anxious about going to 1.88". I already know about the mismatch on the intake ports, going to live with it for now.

If I do all this, I'm thinking about painting the car and doing some work on the inside. This may be turning into a full blown restoration. Damn!
 
LOL-be careful...

If you're having those thoughts you may want to nail down your purpose...be realistic with yourself and your goals.

If you planned on selling it originally, what was the next car going to be?
 
txstang84 said:
LOL-be careful...

If you're having those thoughts you may want to nail down your purpose...be realistic with yourself and your goals.

If you planned on selling it originally, what was the next car going to be?
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I've got 2 Darts, one is a Swinger and the other is a Sport. Gonna make a Demon-like clone out of the Sport. I have an original '72-340 that is untouched.

This is just one of my projects. I like to spread around the wealth. :cheers: I'm doing a 280ZX Turbo, 2 Monte Carlo SS, 2 Trans Ams one SE and a clone SD 455 and I'd sell them all for a 70 Camaro SS which I already have the 396 motor. Like I said, I wanted to sell this Swinger. Haha.
 
holy **** man-too many cool toys! My vote is to get it running well and enjoy it
 
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