Search results for query: *

Just going to repeat this: A-body 8.75 rears were ALL small bolt pattern. When A-body cars went to large bolt pattern, they stopped using 8.75s and instead used 8.25s on V8 cars. So it is not going to be an A-body 8.75 AND have LBP axles UNLESS it had been converted by a previous owner. B-body...

Oh, and get rid of those spacers.

The driveshaft definitely has to be shorter. The snout of the 8.75 is longer. The 10 x 1.75 rear brakes are a good match for the discs up front — that’s not a problem. A-body 8.75 rears are all small bolt pattern, meaning you will need new axles to match your big pattern in front (BTW, this is...

Oh, and I don’t recall having to do anything to the e-brake cable.

Yes to new u-bolts. The 8.75 will have 10 x 1.75 drums which may be bigger than the slant’s front drums ( probably 9 in) — from experience I can tell you this does not work well. Yes to a new driveshaft, but you could have yours shortened.

I think the break is between 1967 and 1968, so the previous post should read "1968 and up". When I swapped a 1968 engine into my 1967 Barracuda, I had to use an adapter for the torque converter on the 904.

I would say the stud size is the main issue to be concerned about. Not just the shear strength but the swage surface. It is true that (given the same wheel/tire diameter) the smaller bolt circle experiences higher shear stress on each stud at launch, but the difference is small. Combined with...

It's so easy to set up I can't understand why you'd want to jerry rig it, even temporarily. You need a Bouchillon or Lokar kickdown cable kit, a V8 throttle cable, and an angle bracket from the hardware store or a light metal bar you can bend to fit, to hold them in place. About an hour all told.

BTW, when I said "it looks small", I wasn't commenting on how well it would work — I was suggesting it was small enough to tuck into the fender well. I suggested that because I have seen similar installations in rally cars, which would NEVER put anything under the floor — it would get destroyed...

That unit looks pretty small — did you consider inside the front wheel well, behind the headlight bucket? There is a lot of depth there, and it would be better protected from road damage. I know I have been on road trips that would have ground that thing flat in the position you are showing it...

Here is the specs page from the 1967 Barracuda brochure. According to it, with the the 273-4 engine, the manual trans got an 8.75 3.23 standard, the auto came with a 7.25 3.23 standard. Sure-Grip was an extra cost option in all cases (see the paragraph under "Transmissions" — the table is a...

My 67 273 Commando/auto Barracuda with HD suspension, non-S, came with a 7-1/4. I have the window sticker and the broadcast sheet (axle code 608, pinion code 34). My understanding is that HiPo engine 4-speed cars got the 8-3/4. Sure-Grip would be an option on top of that.

No, not on a 67-69. It would be solid. When I did this swap on my 67 Barracuda, I found the correct driveshaft at a wrecking yard (very unlikely today). I had to change u-bolts and plates. I did not have to change u-joints — this was a 741 case with SBP axles — your mileage may vary.

I am surprised you can't just bend them to clear the headers. Use a tube bending tool to avoid crimping. I recently bought a set of lines for a small block/904 and they basically fit fine, just needed a little persuasion to give adequate clearance around the starter and my aftermarket sway bar...

Are you sure the clunk isn't the u-joint? That would be much more likely, and easier to check and fix.

I found mine on eBay. The seller was Paddy-something, IIRC.

I doubt there were any factory 225/904/8-3/4 cars... taxis might have 8-3/4s but also had 727s. At any rate it would be so rare that you would never find one. But your plan sounds reasonable.

When I did that swap I actually found the correct one in the junkyard, but that was 30 years ago... they are like hen's teeth because very few cars had an 8-3/4 behind a 904, and that was only from 67 to 69.

Yeah, IIRC there are 4 bolts on each side. I think the later axles are shorter because the BBP brakes are wider and thus the backing plate is further inboard. But swapping the whole assembly should work, and would actually be easier, IMO. Just u-joint, brake hose, and u-bolts to mess with.

Was the transmission behaving correctly with the previous carb and linkage?

He was saying, you check the fluid level with the engine running and the trans in neutral, so block the wheels when you do that.

There is nothing weird about the inner cable pulling out. That's how you get it out to lube it. I would remove the entire cable and housing from the car and inspect it, removing the cable from the housing and looking for broken strands or snags. You could also take a look at the drive gear. But...

There is a fellow on eBay named Paddy that also has this item.

True. I just noticed at Ace Hardware that they had all kinds of metal-look finishes on the rack.

Eastwood has a reasonably convincing "bare metal" paint, if you aren't comfortable with leaving it natural.

"pcd"??? Are you referring to wheel bolt pattern? I thought all 7-1/4 rears used small bolt pattern axles, on slant six cars even after 1973.

BTW this is how I knew the trans needed rebuilding in my fastback, after around 225K. One day, driving around, reverse stopped working. 5 years isn't much of a lifespan. You might try another shop this time.

The end of the fitting that goes into the tranny case seems to be pipe thread. I don't have a reference for sizes of NPT, but it mikes out at about 0.397 inch. Smaller than a 7/16 bolt, but larger than a 3/8. Hope that helps. Usually, a hardware store will have a sample card you can compare...

Oh, I just realized, you probably want the thread size of the hole in the tranny case -- I gave the size of the fitting on the end of the cooler line. Let me go check that for you.

I just checked the tranny on my workbench. It's 1/2 inch thread, on the brass fitting that the line connects to.