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66fs mistyped his reply... he meant to say, SBP 10in rear brakes are 10 X 1.75". That is, 1-3/4 inch wide, not 2-1/2 inch wide. The width is measured on the shoe, not the full depth of the drum, FYI.

Cudajim says he has power disks so I don't think the pedal will be too hard. If you didn't also grab the proportioning valve from the donor car (it is separate from the junction block) then it is not surprising that the rear brakes lock up. You can get an adjustable proportioning valve from...

Yeah, the overall outer size of the drum, as given by Rock Auto, is completely irrelevant. The key measurements are the inside diameter of the drum (machined surface), and the width of the friction material on the brake shoe (the machined surface on the inside of the drum will be slightly...

I thought the 73-up brakes were big bolt pattern? So how are you using small pattern discs? I don’t think you can mix and match rotors, hubs and calipers like that.

The Dorman web site has a downloadable spreadsheet listing hundreds of studs, with lengths, diameters, knurl size and thread pitch. But then you need to cross reference it to the application listings. It’s a good way to check up if you aren’t sure about the details.

Yes, someone drilled them out and mounted new studs to get the big bolt pattern. Not a terrible thing, and it looks like a competent job. The concern is the narrow amount of "meat" on the outside of the new studs. You could always just knock those out and go back to small bolt pattern... with...

The disc MC always has a wire bale top (never a bolt); it has one large compartment and one small compartment; it has one round end and one square end (although, oddly, sometimes the square end is the front and sometimes it's the back — I have cores of both types). Piston diameter could be...

I don't know what year those parts are from, but up through 1967 at least the proportioning valve was a separate object from the distribution block (safety switch) which you show in the photo (two different versions). It was plumbed into the rear brake line and located along the frame rail, and...

I'm pretty sure those Cragars work with factory disk brakes. So you could buy a 67-72 Kelsey-Hays set-up from a seller on FABO — I see them pretty often. This has the advantage of being all Mopar OEM and you can find replacement parts for it under "69 Dart w/ factory disc brakes".

First, let's clarify what you are looking for. The brass block with two inputs from the master cylinder and 3 exits to the brake lines (2 front and 1 rear) is not a PV — it is a safety switch & distribution block. The Kelsey-Hays disc brake systems had a second brass block in the line to the...

If you want to save yourself the trouble of cutting and flaring brake lines, you can mount it parallel to the distribution block (side by side). You run the rear brake line into the PV instead of into the dist. block, then get a short length of pre-made brake line from the parts store (15-20" or...

If they would ever do their research and realize how many cars actually use this part, they would run a batch of 10,000.... but, no.... It's idiotic that you can't get these, but you can get 9" front drums, which nobody wants... (just venting)

Yeah, that's the part number — the problem is it has been out of stock everywhere. Though I haven't checked over the last month.

I basically did what Dana describes, except I ran both front and rear lines through the metering block as per factory installations, then added the proportioning valve to the line going to the rear axle. This is very easy to do without cutting and flaring if you just buy a short (15" or so)...

Yes, I did a K-H brake conversion on my slant six Barracuda convertible, and just bolted them right up. I admit I did not inspect them later to see if there was any wear on the caliper boots, because I was not aware of this particular issue at the time. I have since sold the car, so I can't go...

Another alternative is to look for cross drilled and vented performance rotors. I managed to find them from two different vendors at different times. The last ones I found were (IIRC) Power Stop brand. I found them on eBay. They were very nicely machined. Oh, I see Vames just posted about them...

I bet it's the shoes. I see a lot of listings for 10 x 2 rear brakes these days, which I don't think really exist — people just don't know how to measure them. Factory A-body 8-3/4 rear drums were 10 x 1-3/4, and that dimension is the width of the shoe, not the depth of the drum. People get...

That's a drum/drum MC all right.

I think you are right about that, yes. Definitely had a 5-port block.

"Adjustable" should be in quotes. I wouldn't even try tweaking that thing after 60 years...

1967 with disks still had a separate, adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line, located down by the frame rail. They went to the all-in-one non-adjustable unit later... I'm thinking 1970-up.

It's called a residual pressure valve (RPV). The idea is that it retains a small amount of pressure in the line so that the brakes actuate more quickly. It is used for drum brake systems only — if it is used with disc brakes, it will cause the pads to continually rub the disks. The reason your...

Did you perform the proper break-in procedure with the new pads? A 69 Dart with factory disks would have had the separate PV in the line going to the rear. The combo w/PV as fitted to later cars with single-pot brakes may not have the same proportioning built in. I installed a Summit...

You really need to break in the new disc pads properly to avoid glazing. They aren't just "throw them in and go". Yours could be glazed, or a caliper piston could be frozen. I have two K-H disc A-bodies, both with manual brakes. One has the 1-1/32" and the other has the 15/16" MC. There is a...

$300 is ridiculous. These MCs are widely available, and there is nothing special about a 1968. Just keep shopping.

Maybe, if you had a lathe. You'd need an example to work from.

That's what I used on my convertible — it is the size originally spec'ed for power brakes, that's why I suggested he could just keep his existing MC. My fastback has the bigger bore that was original for manual brakes.

Yes, manual disc brakes were an option. Depending on the model, they may have had a different master cylinder bore size, but a lot of people use the "Power" master cylinder without the booster — it slightly reduces the pedal pressure required compared to the "Manual" master, which is notoriously...

I found this reference picture in my archives.

A 60s-vintage drum brake MC has a residual pressure valve in the brake line orifices... Your new disc MC will not have one in the front chamber (it is only used for drums, not discs — this is also why you don't use drum MCs with discs). Since the purpose of the RPV is to ensure the brakes apply...