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I have found that there are two sizes of these 7/16-20 chrome "acorn" lug nuts — some take a 3/4 socket, and some take a 13/16 socket. 3/4 gives you more clearance to avoid scratching the center cap.

Hmm, those don't quite look like the old ones on my rally wheels. These have long tapered ends — my older ones have a very shallow cone end with a step out to the hex sides. Of course, I don't know exactly which year my wheels came from, and they might have had a few different types. At any...

Doubt it. Are you talking about a notchback Barracuda? It's probably too wide. And the fastback rear seat would be too narrow and completely different, same problem as the 64 Barracuda. I don't know what the upholstery pattern is like on a 64, but an upholstery shop could probably make up...

Shortest replacement cable I was able to find (for a slant six 2bbl conversion) was 426 Hemi. But the regular small block one is only like an inch or two longer.

That was very low resolution. I took a stab at image enhancement... if you squint you can sort of read it. If you had a clean copy to compare it to it would help.

If the two chambers are equal size, it is not a factory disc brake master cylinder, which suggests that the disc brakes were not original. So the bore is kind of irrelevant. For 1970, the factory disc brake master cylinder bore would have been 1-1/32". The master cylinder would have one large...

My 67 had dimples in the floor, but they needed to be drilled. Also, the openings should be reinforced (weld in a washer, or use the proper rectangular plates). Be careful and actually measure out the hole centers using the bucket tracks as a guide — the dimples are sloppy and I almost drilled...

Yeah, driving the copper 'cuda again... just in time for $5-$6 gas... How's the warhorse?

JYH! Is that really you? Hi, man... Just read the contemporary road tests. Tom McCahill of Popular Mechanics said it was the best handling American car he'd ever driven. So did Car & Driver magazine. The A-body torsion bar suspension was superior to the other pony cars for two reasons: it was...

I swapped in bucket seats for the bench in my 67 fastback and kept the same belts. Then 15 years later I swapped a bench back in, same belts. So no problems.

When you are talking about the hoses, you also have to pay attention to the body end fitting. This fits into the flange on the frame to keep it from rotating so you can tighten the hard line flare fitting. Some have a "D" profile, and others have a multi-pointed star. I don't know what your 64...

My 67 273-4 shows about 18-19... automatic in neutral.

Yeah... gasoline shouldn't blister paint. I spill fuel down the flank of my 67 every time I fill up, and I've never had this problem (with 3 paint jobs plus the factory paint).

Yes, they use speed nuts, which cut their own threads (more or less). There are two sizes that I can think of... larger ones for the fish and the scripts, and small ones for the tiny letters on the 67 nose. Something like 1/8 inch and 1/16 inch. The hood inserts also use large ones.

My fastback has a 3/4" rear bar. I kind of think 7/8 would be too stiff, all other factors being equal, but diameter isn't the only criteria. The length of the arms is equally important — a thicker bar with longer arms because it mounts in a different location may have the same effective spring...

I have one Barracuda with a front bar, and one with front & rear. The slant six convertible has OEM soft springs and a Hellwig front sway bar. Yes, it does have some body roll, but it turns in sharply and points very predictably. I see no need for a rear bar considering its overall speed...

If the VIN has a B in position 5, it's a slant 6. E is a 273 Commando V8. Those are the ones I know offhand. Google "Mopar VIN Decoder 1966-1974".

Your mileage may vary, as they say... I subscribe to the "moderate spring rate, high roll resistance" theory. Anti-sway bars can provide any amount of cornering stiffness with very little penalty to ride quality. Trying to stiffen cornering purely via high spring rates will result in a harsher...

This is a good illustration of the difference between rare and valuable. A 1967 Valiant 4-door sedan with a 273 Commando and 4 speed would be an extremely rare car (I've heard of one), rarer than any Barracuda in all probability, but in the end it's just a Valiant sedan.

Hmm, all the A-bodies I am familiar with have them in the same area. Driver side of the firewall. Voltage regulator is just outboard of the master cylinder. Ballast resistor is outboard of that, tucked below the body flange.

You could also add some triangular gussets around the steering box bracket and idler bracket.

Yeah, that's where I got mine. It was still listed on eBay a few weeks ago when I checked.

It is true that a lot of people pulled those motors when they got tired and dropped in crate 360s, so your ideal customer is going to be someone who has acquired one of these conversions and wants to go back to factory spec. You find the dress-up accessories for sale fairly frequently, and that...

X2. My 67 Barracuda FB window sticker shows factory undercoating, but photos of the underside show the gas tank was clean. Possibly what you have was a dealer-applied undercoating, one of those "extra cost" services they would do to jack up the final invoice.

I think what they are telling you is that the GT package did not specify a particular engine.

It's further forward because it has the retractor and sheath, so it needs to be right beside the seat so you can reach it.

Pretty sure the top just removes and is stowed in the trunk.

Original styling sketches...

There was a one-off landau top Barracuda built by a factory employee. This seems to be it. Here are some pix and documentation

I once got a ride in a CarCraft magazine build 67 Barracuda slant six 4spd. It was Loud, Fast (relatively speaking) and Real! I think the slant/4sp would be more fun than a 273 2bbl/auto in the same car.